oddballrovers

Hello Folks Looks like a nice piece off kit, I have often wondered what the tubes marked with red on the picture actually does, do they add strength to the front end part off the chassi or are they merely for protection off things if it all goes bang into trees or so. I can not really see that they can ad any strength off any importence to the chassis strength, the word was theat they did hinder the front end from bending when landing after having been airborn. Can anybody put some light into this. Looking forward to hear your comments Kind regards Ole.

People who "know" run leafs not something from our off the couch Ole.

Hi Marc Are you shure that the cv's are RRC, as far as I know they are not the same the CV it self is similar but the length off the axle that goes out to the drive flange is off another length as far as I know. Kind regards Ole

Hi Boothy. I can try to explain as good as I can from what I know. You are right about the CV's it also has lager brakes, drums are the largest you can get on a series vehicle same diameter as 109" but wider in fact they are as on the 6cyl series 109"'s. The axle housing is tilted so the pinion is pointing slight upwards towards the gearbox flange where you bolt the prop on thats why a stg 1 uses a special front prop with double joints at the gearbox. Apart from that there are numerous smaller differences wich i guess is a bit to anoracish ( wish my speling was far better) Kind regards Ole Ps It is a great misconception that one has to have CV's to run constant 4WD,it just makes it a bit more comfy thats all,nothing technical, the center diff however is a must have to run constant 4WD.

Hi Fridge You are spot on, thats why F1 engines are restricted to ( at one time) 3,5 bar coling system presure. So one puts in the stat and make shure the system runs the right presure or more than recommended never less. Kind regards Ole

Hi Søren That is just so sloooowwwwwww , 40m/minute is what we have in first gear on the Koenig, havnt been in 2 yet and since it is mechanical it works all day long if the engine runs Kind regards Ole.

Erm 10m/s going up 35degree does not sound right compared to the video on youtube Regards Ole Ps 10m/s = 36km/hour pretty fast for a winch and in this case electric

Hi Joe. How is that a problem with the fuel pump??? I have had the same thoughts fitting a SC14 ( wich are only 150-250£ from the scrappie) from a toyota to a 200TDI so it would be nice to know what I have missed on the fueling side. Regards Ole.

Hi Lars Ole here jolly good you are back on the "right" track again, I can see that you are going to Polen with Bo o september, the best off luck with that and the "new" car. Kind regards Ole.

Hi Folks. In therory they are right in what they claim, but on a bog std engine I doubt that the manifold threatment will make a notiseably difference, the only real thing that might give a dif is to move the point where the turbo see the boost up to the manifold, but it is a bit expencieve to go orange for that Kind regards Ole.

Hello TeriAnn Welcome here, I have no Doormobile but a passion for LeightWeights I have owned quite a few LR's since 1980 when I got my first one. Now I do take part in as much Challange events as money and time allows especially speed events has my inerest, having done the Baja-sazonia.de this easter has really turned that on. Currently I run this one: It is a 1969 lwt with a 2,5 Petrol a OneTon gearbox, rear mount forward working mechanical winch, you can se the first part off the build under members vechicles "the Kitten" Build as a father and son projekt as it also is to compete in it. Once again welcome I have had your site bookmarked for many a year now and just love it, there is so much information SUPER.. Kind regards Ole

HI Folks Have just got an idea, so a queston pops up, the 1,8 k engine does not look very water and mud prof to me, open plastic cover on the cam belt end, and also not quite water proff in the flywheel end., At least not to an extend so it can be submerged in sludge for some hours and survive a 7 days race afterwards without special attention. Big question is; has anybody any experience in such a thing what can be done and what cant be done? Kind regards Ole

Hi Folks Thanks for input, wil try fitting those and se what happens. Phil do I get it right you mean the white ones are the spacers and the black one off course are the seals, wonder how it works?? Kind regards Ole.

Hi Folks I am having severe problems with my gearbox. Oil is leaking from the selctor shaft like hell, I have now got these small thingys ( see picture below) wich should be the best as far as I am told. But how do they fit wich way around ?? Or is there an even better solution to the problem? Kind regards Ole.

Hi Folks I have been using the XP1 now for more than a year and I am very happy and I am hard to please with mobiles, ( I used Ericson 250pro before, just for ref, have killed Samsungs, Siemens, and Nokias all ment to be "working" ones) The XP1 was the forerunner to XP3. As far as I know the LR phone is the XP3 Quest, as stated elswhere the text is carp, but you get used to it, is is a phone nothing else!!!! And Sonim offers 3 years warranty. Regards Ole.

Hi Fridge Welcome back to the "plain" kind off life I have a plan, had it for a long time, will some day be made one "the kitten" wich with the 2 leaf TIC paras has loads off axle warp. Plan is like this: Use trackrod ends, Abar from flush off bottom off axle casing and from somewhere on the top, goes together so the center off the 3 end is lined up with the end off the spring not horisontal but vertical. That end is then attached to a shakle with same length as the spring ones, this shakle is made off a stering arm welded to a tube with same id as springs then you can use std spring bush or poly something, for bar you can use trackbars. It has not been done yet but principle has been tested with a wood muck-up and it looked right, one big issue is however to get room for it. This set up will as far as I can figure give the least bind, be cheap to make so what more to wish for, erhm does it work IRL!!!!! will the rod ends hold up the for the wear anyway they are cheap. To make it even less work why not use end cut off steering arms and weld those to the axlecasing with some reinforcement. Regards Ole

Hi Folks. I just grabbed this from his webside: "This facility is not really for heavy winching, but is great for light to medium winching to pull you across the mud where you don’t have quite enough grip when winching and driving. It is also ideal for the rapid retrieval of all the rope back onto the empty drum. I say this because the voltage drops off from 24 volts quite quickly because your 12 volt alternator can only top up the two batteries whilst they are running in parallel. In practice, the 24 volts drops off to about 18 volts which our Bowmotors seem quite happy to put up with for short periods. I’m bound to say, however, don’t expect me to guarantee a Bowmotor as this is not the normal done thing! But seeing is believing, I can assure you. Again, please look at the website, www.goodwinch.com." I think it clears it up quite well, I know the system from being used on smaller German truck during the 70' and 80' I think it was Merc's and Hanomag's it was just for the starter everything else was on 12 volts, it worked so that when you turned the key the starter got 24 volts, it is at least 20 years since I last saw such a box but as far as I remember it was the size off two Allbrights or a bit more. I have however no practical expirence with it. Kind regards Ole.

HI LT 95 is indeed the strongest box ever built as far as I know and it will work/ take you to the finishline eventhough heavyly beaten up, but it is not the latest fashion and it is not mainstream, so I guess thats why people don use it a lot. Could though be a nice set up: 4,75 diffs the LT95 ( short bellhousing from 101" ) with the highst ratio in high being almost 1:1 first gear is almost 1:4 That is at least what is in the plans for our next car. Kind regards Ole.

Hi Snagger I have been running SuperPro's for some time now on "The Kitten" wich has way more than std flex, and that has been with great succes, I spoke to the people at SuperPro before buying and after, because I needed to modify the bushes and it apears to me as they know what they do, so from me there is a big thumps up for SuperPro as a product and backup as well. Regards Ole.

Hi Folks Jolly good and haks for the input. on with the spanner job then. Kind regards Ole

HI Folks I am in the progress off fixing The Kittten after it "maiden bath" means two new conrods headgasket and a bit off other things sorting. My Question is then can a 2,25 head gskt be used or ?? It is quite difficult to get 2,5 petrol spares here in DK so I have compared a 2,25 gskt with the head and unless some off the water ways are different I do not see any probs Kind regards Ole.

As per Topic, have sent him a PM a week ago or so, can se he has'nt been on here since 8 off april Kind regards Ole

Hi Folks I am running 4 pin front in rover diffs CWP is fitted with a distance plate and some longer and stronger bolts from KAMdiff. In the rear ARB 24 spline also using the spacer plate. In the rear the shafts are MD with MD flanches in the front the inner shafts are GBR's and the outer shafts are std 109" multiple spline I guess that later 88" also used them I think. So far they have stod up the abusement you can give them with 255/85 16 MT and a bog std 2,5 petrol and a ONE TON transfer box. And as othe people say get the vallet out, but it is such a releaf that you do not need to worry about breaking shafts. Kind regards Ole.

hello mr Greenstream Luckyli you did not chose MR Greengrass as username, welcome onboard, been looking for you here for a while, and do we "feel lucky today punk well do you?" I do on your behalf our thoughts where right so now it is more off a spanner job. Now only do need to source some instant headgasket on bottle Kind regards Ole. PS: se så og få fyldt din profil ud doooo.....

Hi John Know this is OT but re MS is the od flywheel pattern solved?? Regards Ole.