nickwilliams

Can anyone tell me what the cold and hot resistances are for the 200 tdi temperature sender, or indeed any of the LandRover senders which have a .25in spade tag on one end (the other end of the circuit being connected to the threaded mounting stud). The temperature sender on my (ex military) generator has packed up and I'm wondering if a LandRover one might make a suitable replacement. Ideally, I want something which gives about 1k ohms from terminal to ground at 50 deg. C and 70 ohms at 130 deg C. Thanks Nick

I realise I'm being picky, and this is somewhat off-topic, but this isn't correct. In fact, it's off-road vehicles which need the CE mark and on-road vehicles which do not. In any event, you would not need to CE mark items such as radius arms since they are components. Chapter and verse here: http://www.conformance.co.uk/directives/ce_offroad.php Nick.

I have a 30kVA generator which has a 2.4L Ford straight six diesel engine (basically, a tractor engine). I run it on heating oil, aka 28 second burning oil or 'kero'. I put 1 percent engine oil in with the fuel, although the rated spec for the engine is that it burns 0.5l of sump oil in 12 hours of running so I suspect in fact it does not need the 'upper cylinder lubricant' added to the fuel. It smokes a bit when first starting up and when changing load, but it runs fine. I've probably done about 50 hrs with it like this. I have smaller diesels (Kubotas) and I run them on red diesel only. I doubt they would be as tolerant of non-standard fuels. Nick.

Mickyw, The $64,000,000 question appears to be what have you done to provide lubrication for the compressor? Please tell us! Nick.

As discussed here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=48673 I don't think that you need to worry about re-shimming the transfer box bearings, even if you replace the bearings. By far the most likely cause of incorrect pre-load on the bearings (which I agree is the most likely cause of any extra heating in this case) is the absence of the cover plate and bearing carrier gaskets. Try a set of new, clean gaskets (don't use sealant, the real things are cheap as chips: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/LT230-PTO-COVER-GASKET-/260595845809) and see if the problem goes away. Nick.

Have just realised your beemer is a bike not a car, so the point about the lights being higher on the 90 won't really apply. Doesn't alter much else of what I said though.

I've got a Denso in stock with a view to doing exactly this as well, but it will be at least a month before I get to it. Let us know how you get on if you get there before me, and I'll do likewise. Nick.

<suck eggs mode = on> Have you tried oiling the threaded part which you have exposed by undoing the nut so far, and re-tightening so the oil gets into the threads of the nut, and then undoing it again? (Usually this takes several cycles to be successful.) </suck eggs mode> I've also solved this problem by sawing through the bolts with a junior hacksaw in the past. You'll probably knacker at least one blade per bolt, and you''ll need to grip the bolt with a mole wrench or similar to stop the blade from spinning it. Good luck! Nick.

I'm pretty sure that the two different UJ's have different diameter cups so that if the problem is that the cups are the right size to fit the yoke but the UJ centre piece seems to be too short then I'd guess the yokes have been damaged. The cups should be a tight fit in the yokes so if they are at all sloppy this is another sign that the yoke is knackered. Nick.

There is. HID lamps must be automatically self levelling, which is why (unless you are prepared to do a lot of high class tinkering) they are only legal if fitted as a factory option. Personally, I think badly adjusted and over bright headlights are a bloody menace. To the OP, can I point out that the headlights on your 90 will be at least foot higher off the ground than those in your beemer and (leaving aside the legality) unless they are made to be self levelling they will always dazzle anyone not driving a truck coming in the other direction. Please don' t do it - at best it's antisocial, at worst (for instance for a scooter rider or cyclist on a wet road), it could quite literally be lethal. Nick.

I have a 19J engine which came out of my 1990 90 and is surplus to requirements because I have a 300tdi to put back in it. In the meanwhile, a friend has bought a 2.5 petrol 1990 90. (It was cheap. Very cheap.) Leaving aside the obvious "a 200/300 tdi/V8/etc would be better" comments, how easy would it be to replace the 2.5 petrol with the 19J? Specifically, are the bell housing, engine mounts, wiring etc all the same, or is this more than just a case of taking the petrol lump out and putting the diesel lump back? Nick.

They are loctited. Try giving the heads a smart tap (along the length of the bolt) with a hammer before trying to undo them with a spanner. Nick.

The machining grooves are the same as on the ones I bought. I've not run the vehicle yet, but the box has been sitting full of oil for over a month and not a drop has leaked. I think the oil level comes above the lower edge of the seal, but I'm not sure. However, I don't think parallel (or very near to parallel) shallow grooves around the circumference will stop the seal working. However, the dents are a different matter. Even if they do not cause a leak in their own right they will cause accelerated wear on the seal lip. They may or not be on the part of the shaft which actually contacts the seal, but if they are, I would return the flange and ask for a replacement, better packed next time. Nick.

Well, given the cost I thought it was worth a punt so I bought a pair. For what I want to do with them they will actually be fine, but they would be next to useless for what they are actually being sold for. The current draw is just over 100mA so the total power is about 1W (per bulb) and there is no way that they would be sufficient to drive by on the road. However, mounted about 14 inches off the floor and used to see the front edge of the underslung mower on my compact tractor they will be perfectly adequate. Nick.

Next stage in the 90 re-build is to sort out the bulkhead. Prior to starting to cut out the rusty parts and weld in some new bits, I've just steam cleaned it. I've also peeled off the silver foil backed rubber cladding from around the transmission tunnel. My question is will it be worth bothering to put the cladding back on once the welding is done? The vehicle is destined to be a farm runabout when it's back in one piece. I won't say that it will never be used for a long journey but it won't be a regular occurrence. I'm therefore not bothered about noise, and heat in the cabin is very unlikely to be a problem (quite the reverse - it would be nice if the damn thing was a bit hotter in cold weather!) The question is whether the insulation serves any useful engineering purpose (stops the fuse box getting too hot for instance) in which case I will put it back, or if it's just there for passenger comfort (in which case I won't). All comments and advice welcome. (Well, almost all.) Nick.

I suspect this may be something to do with the 'dim dip' wiring. This was a peculiarity of UK spec vehicles in the late 1980s. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Automotive_lighting#Dim-Dip_Lamps. It works either by putting the two headlights in series or by putting a ballast resistor in series with the headlights. In either case, the actual voltage seen across the headlight filament (and hence also across any relay wired in parallel with it) will depend on the load and may well be sufficient to close a relay even if it's not the full 12V needed to fully illuminate the headlamp. To make your headlight booster reliably work as expected you will need to disable the dip-dip function but you may be able to make it work by picking up the feed to the relay from the switches on the steering column rather than from the headlight wiring since this feed is upstream of any relays in the factory fitted wiring. Reference to the wiring diagram should tell you more, but you don't say what your vehicle is so I can't help in that direction. Nick.

There aren't that many bits if you order them as separate items. You don't say what vehicle you are working on but here's a list of the suspension rubberware for a 1990 90: 2 x ANR4189 - Bump stop - Rear 2 x ANR4188 - Bump stop - Front 4 x NTC7307 - Front radius arm bush (axle end) 4 x NRC4514 - Front radius arm bush (chassis end) 2 x NRC4516 - Plain washer 2 x NRC4515 - Cup washer 2 x ANR3410 - Panhard rod bush 2 x NTC1772 - Rear radius arm bush (axle end) 2 x NTC9027 - Rear radius arm mount (chassis end) 2 x NTC1773 - Rear suspension link bush (chassis end) There is also the A-frame joint (axle end) but I did not have to replace mine so I don't know what the number is. I don't have a list of the nuts and bolts since Paddocks sell these as kits: DEF1SUSFR/B - Front bolt kit DEFSUSRR/B - Rear bolt kit I'd check these numbers before you actually put down any cash, but hopefully this list will give you a good start. Nick.

Many technical regulations associated with the type approval of vehicles are not issued by the European Commission, so you will not find them on the europa.eu server. Matters are not helped by the fact that the reference you have been using is not quite correct. What you are looking for are the UNECE regulations, and you can find them here: http://www.unece.org/trans/main/wp29/wp29regs61-80.html?expandable=0&subexpandable=0 Nick.

What current do they draw? I'm looking for some low power work lights for my tractor (for mowing at night). I've found some nice lamps but they take H3 bulbs and I don't want that much power (cos it's only a little tractor and the alternator won't keep up with 100W of work lights in addition to the rest of the lights). Nick.

HOW MUCH!!!! Christ, I bet those cost all of 10p a set to make! On balance they probably do some good, but time for some serious competition in the market, I think! Nick.

An interesting article on the DVLA and SORN procedures appeared on The Register yesterday: http://www.theregister.co.uk/2010/05/03/dvla_court/ Happy reading! Nick.

What is the forum's recommendations for cleaning and flushing the radiator and intercooler matrix before re-fitting? I reckon it will be at least a month before I get to put the intercooler and rad back on my chassis. At the moment they are sitting on the floor of my workshop getting in the way so if there was some benefit in having them full of something which will help clean out the innards, now would be the time to do it. Thanks Nick.

The LR Series website is certainly a better tool for identifying parts than the Paddocks site, but I think Paddocks actually hold more stock. Paddocks' site only seems to list the common items for which they hold stock but IME they also hold stock of many more obscure items which don't come up if you use their on line catalogue. The only way to be sure whether or not they have an item is to ring them. I called into Paddocks today to see if I could solve the R380 chassis mount problem and I see that they have just had the frame for a 1000 sq ft more warehouse space erected. Nick.

I've so far managed to get the box completely to pieces, including taking all the bearings off the shafts, and mostly back together again just with standard tools and a three legged puller. Getting the bearing races out of the aluminium box castings requires careful attack with a drift whereas LandRover recommend using a two legged puller and slide hammer, but I'm afraid I could not be bothered to make one just for this job so I decided to do it the crude way. Works fine with a bit of care. Nick.

That's the wrong bearing, Mr Western! Les's guide is for changing the output shaft bearing, whereas the OP's question relates to the rear bearing on the differential shaft, which you can only get at by taking the transfer differential out from the other (front) side of the box. Nick.