Frax

Hi my front prop UJ's has just given up the gost and desided to destroy itself. I have been looking at buying a new UJ for it but as it is not standard and I can not remember where I bought it from I am finding it hard to find the part number. I have stuck up a picture but have googled the info on it and failed - any help would be great.

I have had two in three years - one of them I just put new bearings in it but that did not last long. Saying that I was never sure that it was that that was screaming but when I replaced it the noise stopped both times.

I have run 35" for years and liked the look but that was about it, it takes longer to get up to speed, destroys ball joints and is usless if ye are pulling a trailer. Changed down to 33" work great all round and as a bonus my speedo reads spot on now. As for your springs I would think they would be fine.

I did galvanise my chassis but used POR 15 on all the other bits and brackets. you can not beat galvanising.

POR 15 is really good and is used on old cars, it goes rock hard. Only think is if you do buy it, its best to use the whole tin in one go as it reacts with air. Or buy a few small tins and do it in stages. I would have a read about this stuff.

Sorry John No help with the 200 tdi but I have a 300 tdi and did have this with it. They changed the crank shaft pulley on the 300 tdi - the new pulley has got sides on it to stop the belt running of, I am not sure if that mod was done the the 200 tdi also. Someone will be along soon with the answer. Welcome to the forum.

All poly bushed about 2 years ago and checked and still tight. Changed all the ball joints last year and they are still good, I did have a bit of play in the bush that connects to the axle on the front but this was fixed. Checked the steering uni joints and they are also tight. Did the adjustment on the box today - only turned in the allan key about 1/4 a turn and it looks like it has done the trick. Will see how it goes when I go for a run tomorrow.

Thanks for that - a job for the morning then

Hi can you tell me if it is possible to tighten up the steering box a bit, my problem being I have about 10 deg of play in my steering wheel and I just wondered if its possible to reduce this. I see that there is a nut on top of the steering box with an allan key in the centre which I assume adjust the play but just want to make sure.

You should be OK if you just change your fuel filter.

It would be black if it was me

Crank shaft seal has started to weep, my one has done it for three years, just a slight drip now and then. Never seams to loose oil which is strange, I have never needed to top it up between services. Glad to see you got to the bottom of your starter problem.

Good to see its only the light and you can now relax

Hi Ian Get hold of a pressure gauge - I had a Dico years ago and this happen to it, phoned Land Rover and they said it would be the switch as the oil pumps did not go wrong as they sit in the sump. Changed the switch and the light still flickered. Got a pressure gauge and when cold was at 30 psi but when hot and just ticking over it was down to 7 psi. Saying that I think it sound more like a wiring fault but you need to be sure. If you dont have a meter or a gauge a garage should be able to check the switch in about 5 min so should not cost a lot. Checking the switch how ever does not tell you what oil pressure you have. I fited a gauge to my Defender

Or here http://www.kdt.su/good83.html Like the paint but think it may be a bugger to clean.

Ye need to post the link Phil.

If you run it till its hot and at above tick over then let it sit at tick over. If its low pressure it will show up then and the light would stay on as the oil is hot. The hotter the oil the thinner it is and the lower the pressure will be achived. If the light stays out at tick over your oil pressure should be good and just a dodgie switch. If switch flickers when hot or cold I would say its the switch.

Seen two of these typ adds in the last week, 1 for a Van and our for a Camper. Booth said they would deliverer but I found that you only need to ask one question. I would like to send round the RAC or AA to inspect, no reply and adds are removed.

I would not use the tyre as I have seen some large eggs on tyres, you could always turn the wheels a few times after setting and then recheck if you think your wheels are damaged or bent.

Well a little while ago I changed some ball joints and my steering went a bit haywire. I run 33” tyres and the string method of alignment just did not work for me. Today I decided to have a look and see if I could get the steering set up a bit better so armed with a good tape measure I went for it. Get underneath and hold the tape measure on the edge of the inside of the wheel rim and stretch across to the other wheel and touch the tape on the opposite side at the same height and lock it. Take a reading – my front was 66mm rim to rim. This was as near to centre on the horizontal as I could get. Do the same at the back of the wheel rim at about the same height as the front – lock and take a reading – my back was 58mm which was giving me 8mm toe out, as far as I know it should be 2mm toe out. Loosen the lock nuts on the back tie bar and adjust till you get the 2mm toe out and lock the locking nuts back up. Measure at the same point back and front to confirm that it has not moved when locking the lock nuts. Just thought I would share.

Would not think so though - if it arc's at low volts low amps it would just get worse at high voltage I would think. it should not arc at all if clean.

Go for it and enjoy

At the back of the starter solenoid there are two posts one should already have a wire in it which goes to the starter motor, the other one is where you connect the battery + wire. Sorry if I am teaching you how to suck egg's. The trigger wire, what I would do is start the Land Rover then if the starter is still spinning (solenoid don't spin) pull the trigger wire off and the starter should stop spinning. Then put a meter on the trigger wire and see if it still sending power down the wire, if it is its not your starter that is at fault but your ignition switch. Hope this helps.

Most of the time it is only the solenoid that fails, you can do as said above to check the solenoid. You can also check the starter by shorting out the two elect posts on the solenoid, be sure you know what you are doing with this one though, you need a heavy duty wire like that on jump leads, it will spark like hell if you don't stab it on hard and can damage the threads on the posts. This will engage the starter so make sure that you are out of gear. Sitting here with nothing to do so here ye go or here is how I check a starter when removed. Place starter on bench. Connect black jump lead to starter flange and a spare charged battery earth. Connect red jump lead to starter solenoid post where you removed the battery wire from, don't touch the other connector post. Use a small lengh of wire and connect or clamp it with the red jump lead at solenoid end and leave the other end loose and make sure this does not touch any metal. Now get someone to hold the starter as it should jump all being well but easy to hold, keep hands away from the starter shaft. Take the small wire and touch the terminal that the small wire came from - usually a spade connector - the starter should kick at this point. Watch the starter and make sure that the gear wheel throws out. If it does the starter and solenoid are OK. I will not be responsible for any damage to humans or equipment who try this. This quick sketch may help if needed.

You should be able to check that the ignition switch is sending 12v down to the starter Solenoid - remove the small wire from the starter and put a meter on it - red to the wire and black to a good earth, Get someone to turn the key to the start position and your meter should read 12v, do this a few times to check that it repeats. Hope you have a meter but if not a 12v bulb will do if its in a holder with two wire tails. Make sure when fitting your new starter that the wire connectors’ are clean and none of them are toutching an earth of any type. If all that is good your ignition switch should be OK but you starter solenoid could be U/S or it could just be that the starter is turning but just not throwing the bendex out - this can happen if the battery is low on power.