Lars L

I have both and I have to say that the 110 is a Land Rover, the Disco is a SUV... Spending most of its time stationary only used when I have to. I wonder why I bought the Disco at all, a eurobox of some sort would have been a better choice for my business travels.

Actually, i think it's 33 mm or 1 5/16". As on wheel nuts for Scania and Volvo lorries. Seem to remember that I had to borrow a socket from my friendly tyre man neighbour at work... I stand to be corrected though...

And I assume that you mean getting the TREs out of the tube? I can sell you a proper tool for that. It grips the split in the tube, forcing it open to realease the thread. I used one myself when i bent my trackrod. The trackrod was so solidly rusted together that the tool just ripped strips of metal off the old tube. But it held on!

It's all straight forward, the only really fiddly bit is getting the oil pump back. A wobbly extension on my 3/8" socket set did the trick. With caution and a steady hand. You don't want to drop anything...

That's the one. Les knows the proper words... Doubt that he knows what it's called in Swedish, though.

It's the modern way to tighten headbolts. Leaves no mistakes caused by friction and such. There are "meters" to be bought that helps you to keep track of the degrees. You just attach it between the socket and bar, adjust the scale to 0 and tighten the appropriate number of degrees. It will be clear when you see one.

They seem to differ front to back as well... But that might just be the pic.

The tightening sequence is probably on a note together with the new gasket. It is anyway on an OEM gasket - Elring. I wouldn't spend money on anything else.

yes sir, indeed I have. I get 1 bar insead of 0,8 on a good run - full welly uphill at 90 km/h.

Like me then...

Boost Valve I haven't bought exactly this one, but something similar for my 200Tdi.

Sleep tight, nothing to worry about! Bolts are fine to use again and again, it's the nuts that lose their ability to hold on as the nylon gets worn. I've had my propshafts off several times, never even bothered to get new nuts, doing them up tight enough seems to be fine. My way of doing it, don't take it as a recommendation if you like to do things by the book!

If my memory isn't playing up, I think the military plug has 12 pins... Several yaers since I changed the whole shabang to a civvy 7-pin plug.

Hi and so on... My oldest son took his first steps in a guesthouse in Grantown-on-Spey.

As said before, belting the shaft is a no-no. Never stopped me from doing it, though... Anyway, try tightening the puller up, pull on the steering wheel with one hand and give the centerbolt a few whacks with the 'ammer. It might just be what's needed to break it free.

No intercooler, Mr Smith... But still you have a point. There could also be some problem with the injection pump sticking. After all, the throttle cable doesn't act directly to the fuel supply. Internally, there is a spring that more or less "tells" the pump what you want to happen. Then there are all sorts of other springs and levers that finally meter the fuel according to various inputs like revs etc.

Indeed!

Pardon me, but I think you are confusing the guy... If the engine indeed is a TD (?), why fuzz with a glowplug timer for a Tdi? Using this, it will only make the plugs lukewarm at best, not glowing and ready to start cranking. The TD, and the n/a, has a different system as you have found out by now. My 110 has no relay, just a thick cable from the ignition switch to the rearmost glowplug as standard. There are however more effective glowplugs around that need only 5-10 seconds to glow. Here (Sweden) I bought a set at an accessories shop and recommended for Peugeot J9 van. Made a big difference when coldstarting my n/a, Sorry if I kick in open doors...

Don't believe everything you hear!

We're getting OT, but since you started the thread it must be OK? Personally, I think that this forum is the very best there is and how it's moderated. Lots of technical know how and (most of) all silly banter gets stopped or deleted. Let's say that it's VBF in Scandinavia. Technically, as with all forums, you can get varying advices, just pick one. The tone is friendly and there is also room for general OT matters. I like it!

Sure! B) Almost since the very start.

Yup, that's the way it's done. The four holes in each end are placed in a rectangle (as you may have noticed), so the shaft fits only in two 180° positions. Which one doesn't matter. BTW, are you a member of http://www.lrforum.com/forum/ AKA VBF?

Marking might, just might, be of any interest if you put the same propshaft back again. When putting on a new one, there is no (eventual) joint balancing anymore, so it doesn't matter. Nothing you can do about it...

Check what's stated on the bulbs. If it lacks all of them, just buy new in whatever voltage you like.

Wiberg & Wiberg is a Danish company selling "stuff" for Land Rovers. Just order from them and you'll have your vents in a few days.