Lars L

Anchor sends paint inside Britain. How it's done I don't know, but they got a can to Bedfordshire from where an ex Brit who lives in Sweden brought it home for me. I must add that the company made a good and friendly impression by telling me that they were temporarily out of stock and then notified me good and proper as soon as the paint came in. Sure one of the companies to visit when I hopefully get to Britain next summer.

FRC7452 in my book up to August 1986.

May I suggest that you post here: http://slrk.phpbb2.se/board/ There might be help to get.

Whereabouts in Sweden are you? There might be someone nearby that could take a look...

Mine are 14 PR 1500 kg each at 100 psi

Here's what others have said: http://www.destoop.com/trip/1%20PREPARATIO...on/XZY_page.htm I got myself a set from Vass a while ago. Intended mainly for ordinary road use (mostly tarmac and occasional gravel). I find them good enough for my use, the roll resistance seems to be less than the Cooper STs I had before. But they follow the worn grooves in our roads... When going to the local grocery shop I don't have to steer anymore, they follow the grooves like a train. They are also surprisingly good offroad in the glop. I tested a while ago at a meet where several others got stuck in the mud while I simply sailed through. But that might be because of my extremely skilful driving. And lowered tyre pressure.

Jaroslav, the low pitch noise you talk about is most probably resonance from engine vibrations transferred to various flat panels. Here's a hint of what I have stuck on: http://www.acousticshop.eu/vibraflex.html And, as said before, getting new and softer rubber blocks on the engine brackets made a big difference regarding vibrations and resonance on mine.

Nope, not anything related to "In Car Entertainment", only the normal blocking ones. But I like to hear what's going on in the engine compartment and transmission. And the racket is not that bad nowadays, it's actually possible to talk to a passenger if the voice is raised a little.

Lots... For start, there is a thick foam pad that sits in the gear lever hole, blocks out a lot of transmission noise. MTC6872 is the part No. I managed to get a bulkhead cover from a wrecked Td5, that killed a lot of engine noise. Apart from that I have a civvy roof lining for a pick up, mats glued to the roof inside in the load area and on the walls with a thick sandwich foam plate at the bottom. I have sticked heavy bitumen plates to several flat surfaces to stop drumming, glued different types of sound deadening foam in other places, for instance under the front hood (american English...) and in the doors. The whole load area is covered with mats, nice and cosy, with a thick "blanket" underneath on the floor. Believe me, there have been many trials and errors during my seven years of ownership. One thing that really made a difference was changing the rubber engine and gearbox pads with the aid of a company specialising in getting machinery vibration free. Dynamat seems to be a popular choice in the US when looking at Chip Foose on Discovery channel.

Jaroslav, I assume you are talking about a standard 2,5 n/a 110... They have a 1,67 transfer and I know that going 90 kph in 5th makes about 3000 rpm. And it will surely go on like that all day long with no ill effects. Apart noise... 40 as mentioned earlier is probably mph, equals approx 65 kph. I found when driving the n/a that slower than 40 kph in 4th meant no power when trying to pick up speed. Your problem with the 1-2 shift is probably solved by changing the oil to Redline MTL. An ex-Mod lacks all kinds of noise insulation, I've spent lots on making mine bearable.

I found with my 2,5 n/a that revving over 3000 rpm was useless. The engine lost the torque (diesels do that because there simply isn't time to get enough air in) and shifting to the next gear made it go better. This is still the case with my 200Tdi, the low down torque is more effective than high revs. If the revs get too low, you'll feel it by the engine vibrating and not giving enough power. I don't really think you'll break anything by revving too low. A rev counter can be added and it's driven by the alternator (that should have a W connection). I had one once, but when it packed up, I didn't bother to get a new one. No need...

1. Yes 2. Yes 3. No, I wouldn't. Only use it when completely stationary.

Well, you seem ready to go to Persgård for forumtreff! I'm leaving in a few minutes.

It's the big flat back that creates a low pressure area. Found the same when driving without the lower rubber seal for the door. Try adding some bend to the exhaust pipe so it points more to the side. And yes, opening a flap rises the pressure inside, but is not always an option...

And if you compare them with genuine ones... The proper hinges have a notch in each end to let oil in when you take the time. The Britpart variety looks like it has the notch, but it's just a dimple. Not any better if they come from Allmakes though.

http://www.classiclandrovers.no/

Ever tried shopping at Ketil in Sandnes?

I couldn't find the information I wanted on their website... In the past, Thule has recommended the high feet that can be seen in Mr Monster's pic. I bought the next lower size which put the bars closer to the roof. My 110 is of the older variety with the roof straightening on the outside so the crossbars almost touches these ridges, so I assume that it will be some air in between on a newer style roof. Anyway, they are fine for me since the bars are only used to support a roof top tent. Lay something flat across the roof and measure down to the gutter. Mine is 20 cm from top of the straightening ridges to bottom of gutter.

The power requirement varies according to load. Switching on or off power consumers like lights, rear window heater and similar can be noted on the idle speed. How much it really matters when at speed is beyond my knowledge and experience.

No hacksaw required, just an ordinary pair of scissors do fine. B)

One at top on each pane, yes. Then one at each end and two at the bottom slider. Makes six in total on each door. But as said before, mine had some plastic gliders at the bottom, so the felt wasn't needed. Might have been a change in production as these windows were only used on civilian Land Rovers for a couple of years, while the MoD still wanted them as far as the Wolf.

These felt strips used to be extremely expensive in the past, but the price has come down lately. Part No is MWC4757. The part book says one needs 12 of them, but my 110 had other slides at the bottom, so 8 would have been enough. Sold by Britpart, BTW...

Popular? Don't know... Work well? Hella all the way!

I changed the drive wire a while ago. Made quite a difference to the sloppy wipers. Recommended!

I use a Saginaw pump out of a US Chevy pickup to power my MM. Exactly like MM intended when designing the winch. Brackets are partly homebrew and the pump sits where the AC compressor would sit. No pics at the moment...