JeffR

Now I approve of the that idea, sadly, bank manager does not. The idea behind the coiled (and insulated) copper brake pipe is that to attach it to the washer pipes so that warm water flows through, I did some calculations and reckon that the heat loss over 12 inches of plastic piping would be large enough to ensure that the screenwash fluid did not cause thermal shock to the windsceen, mind you a heated windscreen would be easier, but nowhere near as much fun, and again I suspect that the bank manager would be less than enthusiastic....

Thought I had reduced the image size (blame Bill Gates, not me). Believe it or not, the heater is fine, just had a new matrix, all linkages re-adjusted etc, etc, its just bloody cold. Should have seen it last weekend, wife flatly refused to get in until I removed the 8 inch icicle hanging from the hinge. And as for the windscreen washers, even running 80% screenwash results don't work, but I have a cunning plan to rectify that, this weekend I'm fitting my heated washer system - 10 inches of copper tube coiled around the matrix inlet pipe - instant heat exchanger!!!!!! forgot to add that the condensation (how the hell it gets in there I don't know) inside the dash dials has also frozen, but couldn't get a decent photo

Now we all know that the heating inside a LR is , well, useless, but this is how cold it is inside mine - after a 40 mile round trip with the heater set on blast furnace - really need an advert on this site for LR branded thermal undies!!!!!

I had similar problems and found that removing the sill seals worked. Waterrunning down theinsideof the doors (and out thro the rust drainage holes was freezing to the sills. Mind you nearside front door is now frozen solid and defies any attempt to open it, drivers door is fine, why? anyones bloody guess!!!!!

Nice men at the AA have just recovered my truck, again. Coil failed (110 V8). Now said coil is less than 6 monthts old and showed signs of getting very hot at the +ve terminals. replaced it with an old Bosch unit and the truck runs but not always on all 8 cylinders and has an intermittant miss fire. Why would a coil fail? I suspect that the amplifier pack on the dizzy may have a problem (gut instinct), , but any suggestions of where else to look would be bloody useful Cheers me dears

Rather than removing a section of the seem, when I fittted Recaro seats in my 110, I found that I could "slot" the seam, allowing the top sliding section section of the seat rail to move further back, seemed to work and was done in about 40 mins with a hacksaw!

thanks gents

Does anyone know of a supplier of sound insulation that is available on a roll, afordable and self-adhesive?

I had similar probs in Jan this year. Turned out to be a combination of a none waterproof RICT connector and a very duff sender unit (see darwinn awards thread!) . You can swap the sender with the tank in place, bit of a fiddle but doable. Only problem is if the locking colar for the sender unit is completely seized and/or seriously rusty. If it is you will bugger the tank. Also be careful when putting in the new sender as it is very easy to trap the float.

I used to spend time on Alderny in channel islands, there was a chap there who had two of the most perfect 101GS you have ever seen. One was, I believe ex-Navy! You just wanted to cover em in baby oil and rub your naked body against them!!!. Will have to make a descision soon of missus is gonna kill me. Then again, just met someone with a 2.3 HSR Chevette, now a decent tarmac roller scate would also be nice.....

Accuracy and fuel gauges on landrovers simply do not ofetn appear in the same sentance. I know when mine is empty cos the engine stops! Don't really matter what the gauge is implying, like a politician, some times it tells the truth sometimes it don't. Personally I now run mine off the Odometer and carry a small can of petrol!!!

Damn I hate having to make choices, think I'll hit the local and have a few glasses of contemplation, then take the V8 apart again. Nowt like a bit of pain to clear ones mind.....

Orange, My wife is gonna have your sphericals for ear rings for giving me that link. Neil, mid life crisis has been going on since I was teenager. Now a a 2b forward control is sex on wheels

Oh, Bugger some help you lot are, I can live with a 101's p*ss poor fuel economy cos I run a V8 already. And yes the rusty nuts do apply to me, I'm a happily married English man. 101's are just so dinky - the person I'm not that keen on love child of a Tonka and Meccano, but a series has sole and are just so damn cute, and I suspect that over it's restoration more of my blood sweat tears ans skin than I have. Lets face it, I'm screwed with either

My wife asked me what I want for my 50th birthday next year (actually she spent half an hour takin the p*ss) and being the complete idiot that I am I suggested that a nice Series Landrover registered in 1961 would be nice(why do I need one), or a 101 Forward control (why do I need one?). Cos I could restore it like . Somebody please tell me, preferably a sensible grown up, that this is not a sensible idea and that a nice holiday somewhere is a much better idea... Trouble is I've got the bloody idea in my head now, and like the image of Jon Major sha**in Edwina Curry I simply cannot get it out ... I mean 50 years of rusty nuts n bolts, 50 years of neglect and bodges, but all I can see in my minds eye is a nice shiney dinky little landrover chuntering around the Northumberland countryside in the summer with the top down .... And it wouldn't fit in the garage, and I haven't finished her Mini, or my other two landrovers. HELP

Fitted mine with counter sunk pop rivets, and they regularly carry a 25litre drum of liqiud each side over very rough terrain. Had no problems in 5 years or so

Really having a sh*t day. Changed offside disc, no probs. Other than only being able to work whilst sitting down - spine really knackered. So sets about nearside: BUGGER BUGGER BUGGER Trolley jack packed up comprehensively, bottle jack in the huff, rattle gun lunched it's gearbox and I sheered a fu**in brake caliper bolt. Swivel ball appears to be totally goosed and the bolts holding it to the axle are impossible to remove..... This bloody vehicle is rapidly heading down to the bottom field with a gallon of petrol and a box of matches

Join the club mate - changing disc on V8 110 today only to find that everything was seized f*****g solid and/or glued down with silicone. And to top it all the swivel ball is comprehensively cattle trucked

Well the first bit of MOT work damage has already occurred. Lets do the easy bits first thinks I So I set about the steering column UJ's - idiot proof job ain't it. NO IT F"£$%&*G IS NOT Some person of doubtful parentage had decided to torque uo the top clamp bolt to silly numbers (who says that a 13mm nut/bolt can't take more than 150ft lbs of torque). So out with my favourite new toy - a hydraulic nut splitter (when I say new, it was bought at an autojumble some years ago.... and festered in a box in the garage) Couldn't reach properly to hold it in place whilst tightening the nut on the end so went and got a nice green, slippy recycling box to stand on. Tightens nut and POP gets a face full of very old hydraulic fluid at roughly the speed of light, steps back rapidly and fell off the fu£$ing box... Put me back out. Totally goosed. Cos of some rock ape I am now more or less immobile, in pain, got a landrover with no MOT, still got to do change two discs and rebuild a swivel hub and I can't even walk to the pub This damn vehicle will be the death of me, of that I am convinced

Two holiday stories are due.................

Watch this space my friend - MOT is very due and the white pig I run needs lots of work!!!!!!!! Got the local A&E om standby. Wife and kids have got a new set of earplugs, bought a metal detector to recover the tools that are gonna end up on journey into the shrubbery and hopefully a big (read expensive)box of bits should arrive by courier tomorrow. You wanna know something, I have this terrible feeling that I'm beginning to get addicted to the pain this bloody vehicle inflicts on me..........

I used to get thro front prop UJ's at a scary rate (tend to sound like someone has let a budgie loose in the cab!), wasn't the UJ's thatwere the problem. It was the exhaust headers (run a V8 with tubular manifolds). In traffic (no cooling airflow) the heat fronm the collector pipes was simply boiling the grease out of UJ, £40 worth of insulating wrap cured that, so worth looking at the proximity of the exhaust to the prop.

Shall have a think over the next few days, got to break the back of big work batch first!

Sureterm have definately lost the plot. I've been with them for the past 7 years or so, when renewal came around in February, the premium was circa £180 fully comp (I'm an old fart), but the "ADMIN" charges were £200!!! Now I always pay in full, so I asked them to justify the admin charge - "you moved house last year", "Yes, and you charged me the thick end of £50 to adjust the policy and issue new documents, so tell me in the past 7 years other than sending out renewal reminders and certificates, how you justify admin costs that exceed the premium costs" "we have to make a profit" "you have just lost a customer, don't you value customer loyalty?" I hung up. Two days later I get a phone call from them saying "we've looked again and can do the policy for £183 all in". Quite frankly they are extracting the urine Trouble is Insurance companies are effectively un regulated, they have a captive customer base as insurance is mandatory, therefore they can do as they like. To be brutally honest, Insurance companies are in the same veinf as the legal profession and politicians - they open their mouths and the lies just slip out. Rant over

I must admit I haven't tried the spal set, however, all these kits seem to involve a large degree of fiddling about, they tend to say on the box that they are a dedicated kit for vehicle x, y or z but in reality seem to be a universal fit, hence the fiddling. At least with the standard LR parts they fit with a minimum of fuss. The hardest part was finding a bonding agent to fix the door glass into the regulator channel (used aqaurium sealer in the end), after that the regualtor bolts to the inner door panel, which in turn bolts to the door. Relatively short quick and simple - no buggering about with brackets to keep the motor steady or numerous wretched cogs...... Another advantage is that if something breaks you just pop down to your local dealer and the odds are you'll get the part over the counter.