honitonhobbit

Where are you? My supplier is in Avonmouth and I now have a trade price deal with him... Alternatively check out Numax on the web

As a further to Jules's thread, I used to race a rail. Indi supension - obviously with 2 wheel drive. Back in the good old days of the AWDC rails were almost alwasy the ones to beat. Light, low(ish) power, high gearing but on the right course (anything except Sidbury in the wet) alomost unstopable. Drive train breakages were rare even when we went up to the Lancia Volumex lump and the renault transaxle. Fifteen inches of travel at the rear was okay, with thirty three at the front using a modded beetle system blatantly copied form a Baja bug. The Renault TA had an LSD but we ran with fiddles as well for added cornering/traction. When our main sponsor threw in the towel we were looking at a Subaru t box/gearbox with custom made CV's and shafts from the states, that would have given us twenty inches all round with air assistance for full compression - 25 year old technology

Kat, I'm still up for a meal - fancy a night out whilst the big man is away?

Always ring Dave at Southdown first... His stuff is simply the best.

I get them through a local battery supplier. Gave him the deatils after I saw them on the web...

Scrap it. I'll take it off your hands for fifty notes

No mate... What's synthetic rope?

Mines gone grey, fluffy and has some snaggy bits that look iffy and most likely are. Amazed it has lasted this long with so much abuse.

As I mentioned elsewhere: Numax CVX27 Marine Starter. Deep Cycle. Starter. 1000CCA. 130AH. 61quid inc and two will fit in the box. 3 year any use warrantee. Visual battery condition display.

Sir! How dare you say I hijacked this thread, I and my esteemed colleague Mr Heavyweight were merely expounding on the virtues of the various schools of design within the microverse that is LR4x4. Might I suggest that my seconds contatc your seconds and that, with your choice of weapons, we settle this matter? As for the suggestion of Alnus cordata to supply the material for half shafts, this is clearly wrong as any good Silviculturist will tell you that A. glutinosa or even A.incana are much tougher that A. cordata...

I would suggest you go for a Warn. They are generally un reliable and inefficient but parts are cheap and easy to buy as they are (like most winches) made in China (and oh my god assembled in the US of A so how cr*p is that) The Antique daddy of them all is the 8274, reputedly designed by IKB and easy to wreck by putting unsuited motors on that draw huge current... In all seriousness me old mucker, it works like this: You have three types of leccy winch. 1). Parts made in china and assembled in the US or UK - Some Warn and Superwinch stuff 2). Made in China by reputable companies with decent quality control - usually to a UK or Aussie design - Warn, Superwinch, Champion, T-max, MM, Come-Up, Premier, OX etc 2). Cheap Chines sh*t - AEW, GEW, Britpart, MM etc The 8274 is a great of kit, especially when left standard and un bastardised (watched one today, lovely, low run on rates, pulled like a horse, brake worked). Has a massive current draw under full load and is not that quick under big load. Opt for an M8000CE or XD9000CE if you have to go Warn. Avoid the vastly overpriced XP - just not worth it. EP9 and EPi9 - great bit of kit, as is the grey version under the come-up name. The New EP9.5 and EPi9.5 is the Daddy, faster than an 8274 through the full load range, external brake like it's little brother, very efficient as well. T-Max. Very popular in the land of Boomarangs and weak lager and getting more and more popular by the day. The Outback 9500 is a stonker and very good VFM. Remember this. Speed is NOT the be all and end all. Reliability is, as is the ability to haul a vehicle through anything all day and every day. Run on is a nightmare, especially with worn synthetic rope. Light weight and low current draw are essential. Another tip. Avoid Optima batteries like they had herpes, same goes for Deta, Exide and Oddessy (sp?). Massively overpriced and unreliable when you need reliablity. Opt for something like Numax Marin Starter batteries - I use a 1000CCA/130AH Deep Cycle version (60ishquid), you could fit two in a defender seat box (but why bother?) and you get a three year warrantee. Ignore the fashionable stuff, as St Jezmondo, patron Saint of real off roaders said "Think out of the box". If I was looking for a decent strong winch bumper, two places come to mind: Cheap but strong Padia; the best Southdown - the rest are just unsubstantial shadows...

I had an the 310S why the hell did I ever get rid of it - superb phone

Stephen The Nokia 5500 fits all the your requirements even down to being splash/moisture proof

As to half shafts, I feel Alder (Alnus glutinosa) would be far better suited as it's strength is legendary - used for making the clogs of the luddites and other such loomists. Young Will "Big Cheques" Warn has mixed an interesting blend of styles - always looking for the most expensive and bizzare. His use of Neo Greco Doric columns and lintels as roll protection looks odd but somewhat comfy with the Elizabethan urine darkened beams and brilliant white wattle and daub. Said massive columns are dwarfed by his use of post Ptolomey styled Anubis figures holding the Trondhiem Viking beams, carved with scenes of the endless fighting and carousing in Valhalla. The use of early Roman wheel nuts and beadlocks is subliminal yet moving against the stark outline of the slate tiled king cab. We should think oursleves lucky that such an object d'art is never actually used or moved as it would undoubtably damage such a collection of styles and ideas...

I see the Defender lending itself more to a reactionary art neuveau scheme with Lalique enhancements. Speaking of Moglite, he has moved away from his usual minimalist Warholesque Aluminium and Steel (like a less risque Gary Glitter) to the Norwegian log cabin back woodsman look (with added aluminium and steel). Think big logs, checked shirts, gingham, panties and bra... I like the idea of Red Cedar Shingles - works for me. How about Cedar of Lebanon panelling like Jim Pugh has used in his engine bay...

I feel that Nige went over the top with his addition of horse hair in the lime render - I understand his need to comply with the grade 2 listing his motor rates but... The lathe and plaster work around the rear cross member is a joy to behold though. I believe Mr Freezer has used papiermache for underbelly protection, laquered in the 14th century Japanese style. Similar to Samurai amour this has been decorated with scenes that balance out both yin and yang - creation and destruction. I especially like the botanical studies of fruit trees and collared doves... Somewhat reminiscent of Maiamoto Musashi...

I had noticed those rather natty finneals and of course the dado rails with the plaster work cornice. Very 17th Century I felt. I f he were to uses Douglas Fir, he would achieve the same strength and longevity without the twisting/cracking and of course the massive weight. Mind you it was his choice to uses axles from old ploughing engines. Big Jim Pugh has been using Iron Wood and Kerowin for his off road steam roller. Young saplings have been bent to shape and then grown to size before being felled. The hollow centers have been filled with mecury supported in lead piping for added weight. The axles, taken from an old launch tractor at Cape Canaveral run mecury as a lubricant in an attempt to keep the artic tanker fuel cell in place. The cage is made from old sections of the Trans siberia pipline which are bolted together using old off cuts from HFH failed projects. When completed the vehicle will shift the earhts orbit slightly putting a stop to global warming

Split cane. Mmmm yes, I can see that would work. One could add basket weave panels for lightness and ease of damage repair. How about thatch? Or Wattle and daub? Don't bother with green oak and morticed/pegged joints it's just too heavy. Plastic ducting is good and can be joined with a range of solvent based glues. Of course the other option is a Bauhausesqe laminate play, heat treated to form the bends - very strong and somewhat 60's

Belzona Liquid metal and a very small spatula, then lots of coats of paint. This will be fine and save you a lot of time and energy. Alternatively use wood. I would suggest green willow as it is very strong, cheap and bends well. The joins can be formed with 'Tar Twine' the tar coated hemp string beloved of gardeners. If you place the ends of the willow lengths in small plastic bags filled with P4 water retention granules mixed with water, then the willow will sprout and continue to grow, this will help reduce your carbon footprint.

Oh yes sirreee. Slam it to the floor, neons, BIG ICE, flourescent pink seat covers and spinners

50? What's that? 1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,lots, much, many,mines a pint!

See Jim, told you it was fast

Works for me, on all levels. Jez is a bright bloke despite his lack of good looks and suave charm

Is that the one he pumps entenox through

Jim If you want money I need bank details.... I can have that money into your account in minutes when you give me them!