gadget

Found the problem. Dodgy lock out switch.

Thanks for the replies chaps. Once i've got the Freelander back on the road i'll have another bash at the Discovery. Nose lift first. Then reverse bleed and if they both fail i'll replace the cylinders.

As part of my checking to see what's duff on the freelander we recently bought i've just tried the rear windows and nada, zip, nothing what so ever. I've tried with the lockout switch depressed and up. Checked the fuses and F26 and F27 had blown. Replaced those and retested. Same amount of nothing as before. I've taken the door panels off and put a multimeter across the feeds and there is definitely a lack of supply. Any common fault cause this or am i now down to tracing with diagrams? edit: No fuse in F5 slot under the bonnet either.

All done. 85cm ans 126cm lengths seem to work ok. And on the the rear windows -> new topic.

It is indeed 3 bits of wire and some glue on ends. I've bought the kit so i'm going to use it, but if any other regulators go i won't be buying the e-crofting kit again. £13+ for three bits of bare wire that you need to assemble yourself is taking the p1ss a bit.

It is a kit from ebay It's an e-crofting kit that is basically three wires with ends fitted on one side and you have to cut and stick the opposite ends on.

I'm making the assumption that the air in the system initially came in when the reservoir was drained during the brake line change, but i cannot be 100% certain that the air isn't coming from either cylinder. I don't have any obvious leaks and it was fine before the brake line swap. Does the ezzebleed fit the TD5 reservoir cap? I've not come across any pressure bleed system that didn't require buying an additional attachment for the TD5.

I've got one of the regulators out of the freelander and have to measure the existing wires in order to cut the replacements to length. One of the wires has snapped, has a fray that makes it difficult to determine where the join should be and to cap it all is thoroughly mangled and difficult to straighten. Anyone already measured their front window cables on a 5 door and made a note of the lengths?

Thanks chaps. I'll try to reverse bleed it when i get a chance.

I've pushed a couple of pints through tonight and i'm still getting air out of the bleed nipple. Something is obviously not well.

I replaced my rear brake lines a little while ago and since then the clutch has been a bit soft. No problem i thought, just a bit of air in the clutch line. Just been out to try and bleed it - disaster. I've pushed a pint or so through and there are no obvious air bubbles coming out but the slightly soft pedal is now blancmange and useless. There's obviously a knack to this, but i don't gots it. Could some kind soul share the secret please?

You have to remove the offside upper before you can access the nearside upper properly. An absolutely stupid place to put the connectors.

All done The pipe lengths were very useful Ally, thank you. Interestingly my offside brake pipe was routed under the ACE pipes on the offside. I've copied what was there anyhow.

That's exactly what i meant. I stripped it early today and everything was well Hopefully i'll get the new VCU and rebuilt props back on it tomorrow.

Shameless bump. anyone?

AllyV8 - Did you push the kunifer across the cross memeber unformed and then bend as required for the rear hose mount? It looks to be a bit of a pig to get a preformed pipe through with all the ACE pipes in the way. The NTC9531 clips broke as you expected, as did the ADU6075L on the cross member.

Folks, I'm in the process of replacing my rear brake pipe and rear hoses, and whilst everything is off i thought i'd replace the front chassis flexis too. Lower pipe connects are easy enough but how are you supposed to tighten up the upper nut on the nearside chassis flexi? The offside is tight for access but the nearside is silly. (For clarity i'm refering to the flexis that connect the ABS block downpipes to the chassis pipes.)

Thanks for the lengths The pipe has turned up today, along with the rain

I've just replaced the uj in the front prop and some of the grease has escaped from the cv joint at the other end. I can't find a grease point. Am i safe to lever off the cap and top it up?

Flexi from body to chassis under passenger footwell. Passenger side is a straight run, drivers side is dog legged. Picture explains it far easier.

It'll be Monday when the roll of pipe arrives. Good call on the clips. I hadn't considered that.

I'm going to replace both rear brake pipes on my Discovery with kunifer. The short one looks easy enough, but the long one crosses the chassis and looks a bit fiddly. Do you folks replace the long one in one piece or two?

It took quite a while but it's seperated FF: Did you fit GKN support bearings when you replaced your VCU?

I've deformed one of the UJ yolks already using a small ball pein hammer. It's not beyond repair yet. It's definitely stuck. I spent a long time with hammers, wedges and swearing and it wouldn't shift at all. Now that the bearing is off i'm hoping that heat + hammer + swearing will be the answer. I'm considering changing the UJ on this prop because all this hammering can't have done it any good

When i've replaced the VCU and put the props back on i'll take it for a test run on a smooth road rather than the country lane i was on and see how it sounds. Hopefully i'll be able to determine what's creating the noise there. I've still got to get the VCU and front prop apart. I've cut the bearing off and will get the blow lamp on it, and a bigger hammer, when a get a bit of spare time. Found another fault on it too. The wipers don't park.