gadget

Props are off and the drone is no more Still way more road noise than i expected though. The rear prop is away from the VCU but no amount of bashing wanted to free the front prop from it. The cavity between the rear prop and the rear diff flange was full of oil. Is the seal on the pinion nut easy enough to swap?

The piece of mind angle has already crossed my mind, but with such a high mileage car my piece of mind parts swapping could end up being rather pricey in the end. If the recon is that much i'll probably opt for a new GKN at £360 instead. It will be 4wd or sold. A 2wd focus has lower VED and insurance than a 2wd freelander

It's MUCH closer to 200,000 miles I've no problem is replacing the VCU if the one on it is duff. SWMBO doesn't want to drive it until it has "stopped making those horrible noises" and until then she wont know if she's to keep it or not. I'd like to fix the noises a cheap as possible, but without cutting uneccessry corners. I think it will boil down to mondo mode. Lots of test drives and then fix the noisy bits.

I tried to post this last night but something was duff in lr4x4-land. --- After doing the slowest doughnuts Tesco carpark has seen in a while... 720 degrees forward and reverse, both directions on tickover. No scuffing to report. An intersting tick noise every 3/4 of a second when going around roundabouts at speed though.

Thanks for the info ENC. FF: The reason i'm interested in trying to determine if the VCU is duff is that it has higher mileage than yours and there is no info in the documentation that came with it that is has ever been replaced

At present i don't know if the car is behaving or not. First freelander and nothing so compare it to. I'll drag it off to a car park and see if the wheels skip. Will it show skip in both directions at full lock? More importantly, will the skip be obvious to the untrained observer?

I'm researching because if i'm going to need to replace the prop bearings i'd rather not fit them to a duff VCU. So much information in many places and no real consensus that i can find.

I've searched and read a bundle of posts on here regarding VCUs and their deaths. One post had a link to a thread on lz that suggests a 1.2M bar and a 5kg weight and timing the drop of the weight. Bell engineering site seems to suggest that youd need a large bar and some grunt to turn the wheel. Bell also suggests that the tippex test isn't indicative either. The one on swmbo's freelander will turn with a bar and weight, but extraordinarily slowly. The first test would suggest that the VCU is kaput, but it fits with Bell's thoughts. Brakes aren't sticking or binding so can attribute all of the required force to the VCU. I've not had a chance to take the VCU and props off yet so don't know how it behaves when off the car. I would have thought that VVVF-stiff = not good?

Thanks Ralph

Looking for the part number for a freelander 1 driver's door check strap.

Which is the easiest method of getting the bits off to check? It'll be over a pit, so no real prolems with space.

Perfik. Thanks

Any chance of identifying the kit your bought FF?

Thanks chaps It looks as if i need to split the UJs to get to the propshaft bearings. Is that correct? If it is i assume it's worth renewing those in the process too.

Took it for a spin today It's not a quiet ride and the hand brake leaves a lot to be desired, but if i can get rid of the horrid noise/vibration that's there at anything above 30 it'll be fine. Anything obvious i should look at for drive train vibration/drone?

The one on the TD5 Discovery traps all sorts of carp between it and a coolant pipe and rots it through. Seems a decent enough reason to leave it on

It's got more miles on it that yours currently FF Only by a little though. 36mm socket is the same size as my Discovery hub nuts, so that's covered I'll hopefully have time to have a proper look over it at the weekend, but i haven't spotted anything untoward (excepting window regulators) other than a slight leak from the oil filter and the there's oily goo on the underside of the turbo hose. If it's as reliable as my Discovery i'll be happy and if the insurance turns out to be close to £150 my wife will be very happy I notice it has one of those hateful engine undertrays. I binned the one on my Discovery. Is the vote to keep it on or dump it on the Freelander? Now if only my nanocom would support the Freelander...

Just bought a high mileage 2001/2 5 door. Should be collecting it soon. It's got a handfull of small issues such as window regulators, but it's honest enough for the price. Had a quick call to the NFU to insure it, but it seems they're not interested in Freelanders as their quote was astronomical. Well, i hope it was astronomical at well over £700 with full no claims etc. I guess it's going to be yellow pages and compare sites.

Been to look at a few over the weekend and today. Not one had all five windows and sunroof working Are the sunroof and window regulators easy enough to fix on these?

Hopefully my machine mart windy gun will do the trick. What's this "remove sump gasket"

The replacement gearbox i have has a transfer box on it, so i was planning dropping the gearbox complete and fitting the new one as is. The hydraulic winch is wasted on me and once off i'll remove the PTO, tank, winch and pipes etc and get rid of those. I'm still looking for a howto on this. It's not something i'd like to cock-up and have to take the box off again to fix :/ I'm contemplating putting a new front seal on the gearbox too before i fit it...

I'm hoping to give a couple of days over to the job. I'm expecting a lot of swearing and uncooperative bits as has been the norm with my defender Flat surface is looking to be the clear favourite. I had pondered lifting to whole thing up 6-8inches before i started so that i'd have plenty of room to get the box out. It has the added feature of a hydraulic pto on the back of the transfer box which will add nicely to the weight.

Thank you The clutch and flywheel sound as bad price wise as the TD5 We'll probably start looking around at the weekend to see if there are any local-ish.

Hello Freelander neighbours, I don't usually find myself in this part of the forum, but this may change. My wife is looking for a replacement car and is making agreeable noises towards a td4 Freelander. I expect that it'll be an old one that we'll pick up as it's really just a run about. Other than IRD and VCU issues, are there any other obvious things to check when we go poking around a few?

I'm almost at the point where i can grab a couple of free days to tackle this :) I've only got an engine crane and blocks/axle stands to hand, no transmission jack. Would the panel opt to do this over a pit or over a flat surface? And, has anyone spotted a howto anywhere for replacing the td5 rear crank seal?