jackmac

halfords 30mm impact socket on the end of a 1/2 extension worked nicely for me, it's a nice small socket workshop manual says 176Nm, aka FT!

what is the best way to attach something to the halfshaft? i'm assuming putting that much force on the drive flange will just pull through the circlip?

yes about an 8mm rod, definitely hitting the halfshaft not the pin. i would happily snap the shaft as it and the diff must be fubar, but I've no idea how i would go about doing that now! (I'm only good at snapping stuff by accident! ) Could you explain that for me please? Don't understand what you mean by 'banging it against the transmission'? Cheers

Hi all, At a recent pay and play, I knackered my rear diff. Had to drive it home from the site, so it's done a few miles since being broken. I've just got round to starting to strip it down. First worry was when I remove the diff drain plug, and all that came out was 3 drops of water and a big lump of mud(yes, it definitely had oil before). Not good! I've managed to remove the long halfshaft without a problem, found the splines on it are twisted. The short halfshaft however will not come out for love nor money. I've tried yanking on it, trying twine through the holes and yanking on that, using 2 crowbars to pry it out. Have also tried passing a metal rod through the axle casing from the other side and hitting that, but it's not budging. I can get it to move out about 10mm with ease, then it stops. The only successful solution for the rear I have read on here seems to be towing it out with a car Have also tried slackening the diff nuts to allow me to get a slightly different angle on it, to no avail. I've read elsewhere that a slidehammer might do the job, but surely smashing it with a steel rod through the axle casing would have done the same?! Also read about cutting the diff pan off, but that really is a last resort as I would have to pay to get a new one welded on. Any ideas? Jack

off the top of my head, mine was 57mm external diameter i think. i had a similar problem, sorted by going round some local exhaust places and asking for offcuts. could save a few £

I would have a look into different routers. Not all Wireless routers have the same signal strength (and therefore effective range). A decent wireless N router would probably do the job, as it should have an effective range of over 150m (especially if you created a range extender, to make the signal output directional instead of omnidirectional). if that struggled because of very thick walls on the house and/or the workshop, i would recommend attaching a wireless bridge to the outside of the workshop, then just run a cable in there to the PC(as long as SWMBO permits ). it won't give you the same speed as you get in the house, but would i suspect be a lot faster than using a USB dongle.

barely put any weight on the end of the breaker bar and it came undone and old seal is out after a putting up a good fight! can somebody advice me as to whether or not I should be replacing the flange. It looks a bit worn to me, with 2 fairly clear grooves in it as well. is it alright to chuck back in, or will it just continue to leak?

spot on, thanks zardos. I shall hunt down a 1 inch socket then. litch, when i finally get the socket i was intending for a breaker bar with extension if needed. either i'll loosen the nut, or snap my breaker bar if not, then a P shaped bracket braced against the ground as you said.

Afternoon all, can anybody tell me what size the diff pinion nut is? mine is the earlier type castellated nut (1988 90), and after a minor battle removing the split pin i've found a 24mm socket doesn't fit as i hoped it would! dial caliper has gone walkies somewhere, so i've measured it with a ruler and it's either 25mm or 1inch. I'd rather not round it with the wrong size as i've heard i should expect it to 'require explosives' to remove. Can anybody tell me for sure what size it is?

frank pickles are no longer taking on any new 4x4 policies according to their website. now redirects to adrian flux.

i've got half a bottle of lucas stop leak in mine at the moment, and I must say that after a few days of having it in there it did actually seem to stop the leaks and is still doing a good job! can't say i have noticed much 'revitalisation' mind.

next one would appear to be 7th August. See LROAC calendar

did exactly the same, then found i couldn't get the fuel cap lock barrel out or the rear door barrel i found a few bits of advice on internet when i did mine, some suggesting there was a screw to release the barrel (well, there wasn't on mine!), some saying a locking pin (not on mine!) and others suggested drilling out the barrel then replacing it.

i've found the best way to get them off mine is peel off as much as you can, then get some petrol on a rag and you will be able to rub the residue off with repeated dipping in petrol

my passenger door sounds much the same, the bottom of it just doesn't really exist anymore. are you planning on getting the proper repair sections, or just welding some box on?