Paul Woodward

Thanks David. Just had a read on the Rangerovers web site. As you say they should come out ok.

Thanks for the replies everyone. Were going on holiday in it in July so I guess I'd better do them. They don't lose any air, it was stood for a month while the engine was dead and they all stayed up. I've read you need the diagnostic computer to de pressurise the system. As the bags are being changed will it be ok to support the chassis and axle then puncture the bags?

The Td5 has a chain driven cam. So no you don't have to change it.

I took my Range Rover for mot last week. It passed ok but I was given an advisory on perishing of the air springs. What does the team think? Should I be thinking about changing them now? Or will they go a bit longer? It's a 2002, I've no reason to think they're not the originals. Thanks all.

Looks like when the Tdi motor was fitted they used the flywheel housing from the original engine. I did the same thing when I fitted a Tdi motor in a mates 110. Saves messing around with the studs.

The one on mine is like the one you've bought. Mine is a 2001 with the Thor engine. Yours would be a Gems engine being a 1996. Maybe there is a difference between a Gems and a Thor flywheel? The listing does state 1994-2002 though?

For the later engines they specify NGK PFR6N-11. I bought some here. Worked out cheaper than the local factors, even with a discount!

Or your electronic dizzy has packed up. Pull the ht lead from the coil out of the dist cap. Remove the lt wire that goes to the distributor from the coil (-ve terminal). Connect a length of wire to the coil -ve terminal. Turn on the ignition, touch the end of your length of wire on and off a earth point, you should get a spark from the ht lead coming from the coil. If you do it must be a distributor problem of some sort. Sorry if i'm stating the obvious here!

Assuming the vehicle is negative earth (all 90/110's were I think) then the supply from the ignition switch and the wire to the fuel solenoid go on the positive terminal. The engine will still run with the coil connected the other way round. You wont notice any difference!

Yes that's for a auto. I dont understand a word of German but a picture is worth a thousand words!!

That's called the flex plate, they are well known for cracking. Is it a Landrover gearbox mounted with a adaptor plate to a Isuzu engine? V8 or Tdi autobox? Do you know if that part is Landrover or Isuzu? Uprated Landrover one here for Tdi.

If it's the 10mm torque converter to flex plate bolts it's 37 ft/lb's. I put a drop of threadlock on for good measure.

Mo, The case and hubs are Range Rover 3.9, 1990 with abs. The swivels are Disco (taper bearings top and bottom). The stub axles, wheel hubs and cv's are from a 1984 90. My hubs have the 7/16 UNF caliper bolts so I have made stepped bolts to suit the 12mm caliper holes. You could use the RR calipers of course but they have 2 inlet pipes. The pistons and pads are also smaller than the 110/130 calipers. Paul.

Thanks for your comments! My thoughts exactly Aragorn. No point spending money on a P38 and not knowing how long the engine will last. There will still be all the other usual issues to worry about though!

I'm very fortunate in that I work next door to a engineering shop! I'm calling in some favours and oweing some too! A bottle of whisky and a case of ale may change hands also. I estimate £1000 for parts etc.

In my opinion this is not safe. Please dont do it. This is the brakes!! I used These discs.. With These calipers. ST1266 & ST1267.

More progress. Liners are in and bored/ honed to size. Block faces skimmed flat true to the main bearings. Valve guides fitted, heads skimmed, seats cut and valves ground. Hopefully I can start cleaning and assembly tomorrow.

The bolt sizes are 12mm or 7/16 UNF. The bolt spacings are the same though. If you want to fit calipers with 12mm bolts on a 7/16 UNF hub then you'll need to have some special bolts made. There are a variety of different piston sizes depending on year and if it's 90 or 110.

Well the liners have arrived The boring is underway The heads need new guides in the exhausts but everything else is saveable.

Is the cork seal on the glass bowl in good order? If it's drawing air in it wont pull the fuel through. What sometimes happens is over tightening the stirrup clamp bends the Mazak body and the bowl wont seal.

Yes if you remove the stub axle the cv joint and shaft will pull out. Depending if the swivel housing has water in it or not. You may be removing it anyway!

Land Rover don't make repair sections as such. That's why a genuine cross member is just that! Invariably when you remove the old cross member the first 8" of the chassis will be rotten too. Also there are a few extra brackets and strengtheners required if you just want to replace the cross member. I'm not sure if they are available as seperate parts. I would say it would be easier to replace one with the extensions. Less joints and welding required and easier to remove the old one. I used a genuine cross member and had to make my own chassis extensions and gussets. I never do things the easy way.......

If it were me I'd cut out the bad areas and let in new metal. If the rest of it is sound that is. No point fixing it only to have more holes in a years time. The steel isn't 3mm, more like 1.5-2mm from memory. Have a look in the tech archives for replacement procedure.

Cheers, I'll try that next time!

Slightly OT but still fan related. On my old Series I had my fan connected as your single fan picture. It would always cut in fine but when cutting out the relay contacts would always "flutter". It was as if the thermo switch couldn't decide if it was on or off. I tried relays with a resistor and with a diode across the coil. All were the same. Any idea why this is?