Paul Woodward

Yes those two holes are blind. They're used to bolt the track rod protector on when the diff is in the front axle. The thread is 3/8 BSF, a throw back to the old days, if you want to plug them.

Yes the broken bit is part of the drive gear; Its just held by the housing which pushes in;

Put the inline filter before the pump. It doesn't matter which carb you connect the feed to, on the original system the feed pipe was 5/16" outside diameter and the return pipe was 1/4" outside diameter. The fitting on the return pipe had a smaller hole to restrict the return flow, it's been a long time since I've seen one but it's probably around 1/16". You could use a pressure regulator and not have a return, depends what sort of pump you're going to use?

Take the warning light wire off of the alternator and connect it to earth. If the warning light is then lit you have an alternator problem. If there's still no light then the issue is elsewhere. At the warning light panel remove the bulb and check for a 12v ignition supply at the bulb holder, if ok check for continuity from the other side of the bulb holder through to the alternator. If the diode is missing or failed then there will be no continuity between the warning panel and alternator, it will be in the dash loom somewhere. The resistor is connected in parallel with the warning lamp, if the bulb blows it will still allow an exciting current to pass enabling the alternator to charge. Even if the resistor is missing the lamp should still light. Hope that helps.

Fantastic posts there David. Nothing more to add!

I believe that all the Rover V8 engines used 3/8 UNC bolts around the bell housing. The two that I've done have been for sure. HTH.

Mine's a B reg. It has the front panel with the lock and it had the "LANDROVER 90" badge.

It would need to connect to the vehicle side of your relay, or the starter or the alternator. Are those relays rated for the amount of current involved?

I paid £500 for my set of 5. Used but good condition, no tyres.

I welded 2 square blocks to the axle case and spring perch. These were drilled and tapped to take studs. The one behind the axle was incorporated into the lower mount for the shock.

I bought a roll of the nylon tube from a pneumatic supply company, 1/4" outside diameter. Cut the old pipe off, knock the fitting into the new tube. I drilled a 1/4" hole in a lump of hard wood, cut through with a saw and used it to clamp the tube in the vice with 1/2" poking through. Start the fitting in the end of the tube and give it a sharp tap with a mallet. Might take a couple of goes to perfect the technique!

Yes they are banjo fittings the same as on the axles. Use the same size nylon tube and re use the fittings or get some push fit unions. The thread is 1/8 BSP.

Love the fuel tank on this one! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/land-rover-project-/290987555849?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item43c035bc09

Yes they are both 1.2:1, or they were when they left the factory! There should be a tag on the back of the transfer box with the ratio on. Ratio can also be determined from the serial number. See here; http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=45

What about this little beauty! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Landrover-Discovery-Series-2a-hybrid-project-/271282920509?pt=Automobiles_UK&hash=item3f29b8dc3d

Yes it looks good for the money. I bought one!

Wasn't there a problem on these engines with the bolt coming loose on the oil pump drive sprocket?

That would have a ratio of 80%.

Eat your crusts, makes your hair curl Or so my gran used to say!

From my experience you wont remove paint with walnut shell. I'd use paint stripper.

The spring calculator divides the load on the spring by the spring rate to give the fitted length of the spring. You can pick a spring from the list or input your values manually. Change the figure in the axle load box to your own figures. I've no idea what the Obs box is for either! I'm still number crunching trying to find a suitable combination for mine.

The gear shift cable is FTC566 and the kickdown is RTC4854. Range Rover and Disco appear to be the same. Putting a proper gearbox behind that V8 then Nige?

Some interesting stuff you have going on there! Does the larger torque converter have a lower stall speed?

Welcome to the forum Andreas! It sounds to me that you have answered your own question. Re drill the flex plate or better still have a new one laser cut from some suitable spring steel. Machine/adapt the spigot to suit the crank. Make up a spacer ring to to obtain the correct mounting depth. Oh and we need photo's of your truck!!

Ok then, this is what's on there at the moment; Front. Britpart DA4202 (I know, I know!!) 390mm/15.35" free length. 230 lb/in. Fitted length 11.46" averaged between both sides. Therefore 3.89" @ 230 lb/in = 894.7 lb each side so 1789.4 lb for both. That's 813.4 kg. The measured load is 1112 kg. 1112 - 813.4 = 298.6 kg unsprung. Rear. Bearmach BA2102. 445mm/17.5" free length. 295 lb/in. Fitted length 14.5" averaged between both sides. Therefore 3" @ 295 lb/in = 885 lb each side so 1770 lb for both. That's 804.5 kg. The measured load is 943 kg. 943 - 804.5 = 138.5 kg unsprung. That's not too far away from the figures approximated by Bowie69 above. I'll try the figures in the spring calculator and see what it comes up with. It'll be interesting to compare your calculations Dave.