Paul Woodward

What a great looking saw! I think you should bid on it anyway. We have one of those Q&S ones at work, slow but reliable. I don't think much of the horizontal bandsaw type, they never seem to cut straight and the blades don't last long compared to a donkey saw blade.

If you only want to remove the dust cap wouldn't it be easier to just put some sealer over the end of the splines? I'd suggest "Tiger seal" or similar rather than silicone.

4 or 5? On wheels or not? New style or old?

My 4.6 P38 averages 14 mpg on gas. According to the computer it's averaged 16.4 mpg over the last 4000 miles.

We use Surface Processing for stuff at work. They generally do a good job but it is expensive. We just had a Series one chassis and bulkhead stripped and E-coated, £2000.00 including the VAT. Cheaper and better to buy a new Galvanised chassis.

Thought this may be of use to others. Solenoid valve Considerably cheaper than the ARB one. I've no connection with the seller, just a satisfied customer.

Ahh! Thanks Ralph. Guess I'll be making one then. Edit. The old pump was broken. The diaphragm rod had pulled through the arm. Put the new pump on with the cam at the lowest point and there's virtually no travel left. That's why I thought the pump needs to be moved out and why the old pump failed. Quality Delphi pump. Didn't come in a blue box!

Does anyone know the part number for the spacer on a 300 lift pump? In the parts book it shows the gaskets as ERR2028 but the spacer is shown as NSS?? Thanks.

No there isn't anything underneath that will cause a problem. You might need to go bigger than M8 but I see no problem in drilling right through.

I'm not familiar with the L322 Range Rover but generally speaking it may be; 1. Blocked sunroof drain tubes. On most cars these end up in the valley at the base of the screen and may have a one way rubber valve on the end. 2.Blocked bulkhead valley drain tubes. 3.Air con drain tube blocked or fallen off. Allowing condensation from the evaporator to run inside the car. I guess you'll need to remove some trim and look up under the footwells while someone pours water on the screen. Good luck!! & welcome to the forum.

You just need to be aware that the adjustor bolt on top of the shaft (1) is captive in the shaft. Remove the lock nut (2) and wind in the adjustor as you lift the lid off.

You've filled out the V5 in the correct manner, given a receipt and kept a copy. Whats the problem? You're not obliged to check out the buyers history! When I've bought cars (especially on eBay) I've always assumed it's the seller that's the crook!! I once sold a car on eBay for £600. The buyers address came up as the Shetland Islands. That's 650 miles and 2 ferry crossings away from me. Oh well I think that's a waste of time then. Next day I get a call from a lady to say she'll collect in 3 days time, I still wasn't convinced! 3 days later at 9pm she phones me from the bus station, could I pick her up? She's come on her own! I pick her up, drive 20 miles to where the car was, she hands me the money, we do the paperwork and she drives off into the night. Another 3 days later she leaves me feedback. I still find it hard to believe it happened!! There are still some decent trusting people about.

Depends what year the Range Rover was I would think. I've just built up a front axle for mine using parts from a 1990 Range Rover and 1985 90 axles. The only parts that were common were the axle case and the diff. Hope thats of some help.

Thanks for that, just what I was after. It's a Disco frame I've got that I'm modding to fit in a Defender. Cheers, Paul.

Hi all, Re posting this here as have had no luck in the Defender forum. 300 TDi Defender radiator. On the top of the mounting frame there are 2 pins that the brackets fit onto. How far apart are they? Are they an equal distance left and right from the centre? Thanks in advance, Paul.

Hi all, if someone could take a quick measurement for me please? On the top of the radiator/intercooler frame there are 2 pins sticking up that the brackets fit onto. How far apart are they and are they equally spaced either side of the centre? Thanks, Paul.

If it was all running ok after the cam was replaced it's not going to be a valve timing issue. It could be that the cam is now worn out again? Did you replace the followers and bed the cam in?

Made these for a job at work. Same idea as Simons. Brass strip, brass 8mm bolt at the end. They're screwed to a piece of 16mm mdf which is fixed into the box. Top one is for permanent live, centre for ign circuits, bottom is earth.

I just replaced mine with Dunlop ones. The original Dunlop ones lasted 10 yrs, I'm only going to own mine 3-4 yrs I guess so not worth the extra for the Arnott ones. I believe the ride is firmer with the Arnott Bags??

Google for your nearest Durite stockist. They have THESE 10 from the top. Quality items too, not that folded rubbish.

If a P38 box is the same internal design as a Defender box then no the screw can't be taken out from the top. It's held captive in the top of the shaft. Split the nut and get a new one?

Overheating, coolant loss into drivers footwell, heater blend motors, dodgy electrics.............. Have a look here http://www.rangerovers.net/ and here http://www.landywiki.co.uk/index.php?title=Range_Rover#P38A Hope that helps! Paul (2002 P38 4.6 Vogue, owned 3 months.)

There are 4 bolts. M12 x 100, 10.9 quality. Sorry don't know the length of thread off hand. HTH.

Make sure the drain tubes for the wiper linkage "well" are clear, especially if the foam on the vents has gone.Could be full of leaves etc. Seal around the pollen filters with some silicone.

This lovely old Series 1 comes up for sale tomorrow (25th June) 14,000 miles and one family owned from new. It needs a mechanical restoration but hopefully the new owner will leave the body as it is. Part of the Joe Powell collection; Catalogue