Roverdrive

This was a perennial problem with the 101 due to the larger offset, although it tended to only be the front prop not the rear affected. Scared the cr@p out of me the first time I heard the "bark" decelerating from speed. There was an article in the club magazine some time ago about the science behind what is going on, but as is always the way, I have had a clear out and dumped my back copies! Mike

Sounds like the handbrake is binding.

Maverik I have wired mine so it works ignition off as said, but can also be switched to act as additional reverse light. This of course contravenes the C&U regs as only two may be fitted, but would rather get a telling off than reverse over a small child at night. There are also rules for the power of reversing lights, and whether they are approved type or not. I could not find a reference to the vehicle having to be stationary while "working" which makes sense as a lot of the motorway vehicles use work lights while placing traffic cones etc.

The only thing I can find is Work lamp shall not be.... (a)Used so as to cause undue dazzle or discomfort to the driver of any vehicle. (b)Used so as to be lit except for the purpose of illuminating a working area, accident, breakdown or works in the vicinity of the vehicle. So I guess the "ignition dead" requirement is BS!

As I understand it, any work light should only work with the ignition off. I have connected mine this way, with a switch mounted on the back of the light cluster inside the back door. Means I can leave it on after loading the dogs up, and as soon as I turn the ignition on it goes out. When I get home, as soon as I stop, the light is on ready for the dog wrestling match!

Many thanks

Good evening, I am thinking of looking at a td5, and have heard both good and bad things said about them. What are the main items to look for? I have heard about the oil pump drive bolt, and leaking fuel cooler. Thanks

As above Certainly divides opinion. I fitted a complete set of genuine red polybushes to my RRC before using it as a trials motor. I used it for four years and again as above, only the pan hard rod bushes needed changing after two years. I personally like the genuine polybushes, and will fit them again. Never noticed any change in harshness as I was running diamonds anyway.

You may run in to problems with the belt slipping, but I am happy to be proved wrong.

I see similar voltages during operation though I think it only drops as far as 13.9 with heated rear window lights and fans on. I have a twin battery set up with a 100 amp alternator. I would be getting your battery checked as well as the current drain

Possibly badly adjusted handbrake dragging?

A bit of digging this afternoon found the fault behind the base for the starter relay. The feed to the starter solenoid had melted across the permanent live and the ignition live. I'll examine he harness tomorrow in the daylight to see how much needs replacing. Separating the wires cured all the spurious indicator lamp problems, and glow plugs now operate.

I was able to do a few checks this morning. Score duty called elsewhere. The "ignition" switch checks out ok for function, but I have found that with the wires disconnected from the back of the switch, the red/white wire has 12 v on it, so there must be a back feed as this is the wire to the start relay. All wires behind the instrument panel look ok with no signs of burning. Won't get another look until tomorrow now.

The plot thickens. Tried the secondary earth - no joy. In addition to the lack of glow plug light, I found that the glow plugs have 12 v on them all the time the ignition is on. Of course if the relay is removed the 12v on the glow plugs is lost. The heated rear screen does not work and the light does not come on. Fuse is ok. There is 12 v on the starter solenoid wire, as soon as the ignition is on. The starter does not operate. I took the wire off the starter solenoid and ran a wire directly from the battery to the spade terminal. No joy. Checked the resistance of the solenoid and it was in the kohm region ( can't remember the exact figure) which doesn't seem right, so it looks like there is a starter fault. The original cable on the solenoid looks to have been hot, as the plastic clover over the spade shows signs of melting. I am wondering if there is a short in the harness somewhere? Downloading the correct wiring diagram for the model year to see if I can identify a common point to cause all the various problems. Have given up for the day, and will continue tomorrow. It is certainly an interesting one!

Same here. Winch bumper bolts welded, and winch bolts welded

Aragorn You could well be on to something, as it was only when I put the engine back in it occurred to me that I had not taken an earth strap off! Never had any starting issues in the four years I have had the motor, but maybe the extra load of starting in gear has fried the handbrake cable, or gearbox earth- assuming there is one. Once the weather co operates I will get back under and have a look. Needless to say I will be picking up an earth strap for the engine. Mike

Cheers gents. Got the engine back in, and weather permitting will finish off the install and look at the electrics tomorrow. Mike

Well that was an interesting Christmas. Clutch fork went 50 miles from home. Managed to get 10 from home and the starter was dead. First order of business today is to sort the clutch then look to the electrics. After the first start I noticed I had lost the supply to the radio. Fuse I thought. Now the radio is working but there is no glow plug light and the starter doesn't operate. I am favouring a loose connection somewhere but if anyone gas any pointers while I am crawling unde the motor it would be much appreciated! Cheers!

Mmgemini I fitted nets to my rear door some time ago. They were from nets4you I believe. Original topic http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=89815&p=775163 Mike

Going back to the drawing, the two fuses are fed from a single red wire from the switch, which also feeds the instrument lights and the warning light on the dash. If you didn't lose these lights I would suggest the switch is likely ok Identify the correct fuses. According to my drawing one has a red/black wire coming from it and the other red/orange. Check the feed in to these fuses. I am guessing there is a link across the two on the switch side of the fuse. Hope this is some help

Did you notice if the front side lights were going off at the same time? Looking at my wiring diagram, the left and right lights have separate fuses. It is unlikely to be a simultaneous fault in both, so I would suggest looking closer at the switch, and common wiring. Also worth checking all earths for the battery and body. Do you lose any other services such as heater or radio? I am on he Wirral, and may be able to meet up for a shufti if that helps. PM me rather than advertise where there is a Land Rover to steal! Mike

Litch Cheers for that tip, I'll give it a go.

Snagged, unfortunately it is already as tight as it goes. The head is quite stiff to move but the additional surface area of the towing mirror is enough to overcome the resistance

I'm guessing that as they use the same clamp arrangement you are correct in thinking they will fold down. I need e extension mirrors to see along the sides of my van, so they are not an option for me.

During a trip up to the North East this afternoon the addition of towing mirrors caused the main mirror to fold down due to the high winds. Top tip. Fit a jubilee clip to the mirror stem below the mirror head with the driver below the mirror face. This stops the mirror tilting down.