Roverdrive

I converted my 1997 110 to vented discs a few years ago - no issues. Nowhere near it at the moment, so can't take pictures, but I think they were allmakes calipers, with Britpart discs.

Doesn't sound right. Does it seal at all or not? Can you compare the thread to one of the old ones? Your local motor factors should be able to supply bleed nipples, or even a half decent garage workshop.

Hope it isn’ t he same issue I had. He pedal felt “funny” and a few presses later the clutch fork punched through!

I’d go along with that HfH. Had a look at one at my local supplier and thought it would be a right wrestling match to fit, so decided not to bother. I had enough trouble with the standard one.

Look at what hasn’t been changed. Could a hose be delaminating restricting flow? is the header tank clean of debris? i managed to drop the cardboard disc out of the top of a bottle of oil in once which cause very hit and miss steering!

Check to see what angle the cd can be installed at. Some are specific on orientation.

Mudstuff dash here. Has been really effective and does all I need.

From memory there is a circlip on the half shaft retaining the centre part of the FWH. You will need to remove this as well as the bolts

Hurbie Sorry you will have to ask them direct. I have no idea of prices, though there site does say they will be able to offer the pressed OEM style chassis soon as well. Present ones are four pieces welded together

There is a new kid on the block making chassis https://www.xdchassis.co.uk/ I have seen one in the metal, and the welding is excellent

I have a 300tdi CSW with a Brownchurch rack, winch, and running 265/75r16 mud terrains. MPG has been consistently 25/26 MPG mainly town with short motorway runs at 70 MPH, and towing a tipping trailer at weekends. If towing the caravan long distance it drops to 21 MPG.

Going off the Lucas colour coding, white / slate is the convention for tachometer feed. Have you got a retrofit tachometer? I don’t believe these were ever a standard fit. These are fed from the alternator, at least it was on my RRC.

You might want to have a look at this link http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Recovery/ It will give some ideas of the forces involved in recovery. I prefer winch recovery where possible as you can control the forces applied. KERR puts a lot of force in to the operation, and if a recovery point fails can be lethal. Just my 2P worth.

Was the air filter dry? I would suggest a compression test. If any water got in you may have bent a rod.

On the Disco 3 the traction control applies the brakes only. It does not limit engine power unless the yaw sensor detects a potential spin ( of the vehicle not a wheel ) This can be overridden by the button on the dash so you can “drive it like you stole it” 😆 HTH

Red 90 Typically on a marine engine it is due to operating conditions changing, for example heavily fouled scavenge spaces, damaged turbine blades etc. By increasing the boost I am operating closer to the surge line.

More boost is beneficial up to a point. If you get too close to the surge line the compressor stalls and air flow drops until the pressure reduces to allow delivery again. Not seen it on my Defender but on a 12,000 shaft horsepower marine diesel it certainly gets your attention!

PL i adjusted (shortened ?) the wastegate push rod.

Mav My 300tdi is still a work in progress. I always thought it was fairly sprightly and after a couple of years the turbo let go big time. I fitted a new one, and looked in to adjusting the pump after articles on here. First port of call was an EGT gauge. Holy cr*p! I backed off at 780degrees C and climbing. Closer inspection showed it had already had the pump played with, as there were two witnesses marks on the boost pin. Looks like they had gone for the max, with no idea what was going on. The pump has been wound back to give a max EGT of 720 with the 3.5 tonne trailer on the back on a sustained climb. I think I found a max continuous figure of 725 C but can’t for the life of me find where. As I still have some off boost smoke, I need to try to get the pump back to standard and then start again. Presently running 1.2 bar boost.

My mistake Western, I thought you were inferring the relay was in the engine bay as well. I couldn’t see the resistor when I was looking before, but it had started to go dark. I’ll have another look tomorrow. I would like to find the reason for the sudden return of the dim dip!

Ok I have had a chance to have a look, and the dreaded pink relay is mounted to the bulkhead behind the right hand speaker in the footwell. There is no sign of any wiring bodge, so the next quest is to locate the resistor.

Thanks gents. As soon as the monsoon conditions abate I’ll have a look. Strange that it suddenly “worked” and then reverted to normal, ie no dim dip. Perhaps I’ll find a bodged repair.

Evening all. just a quick question for the collective hive mind. I have a 1997 110. Today when pulling up at a farm I noticed the headlights reflected off the hedge even though I only had side lights selected. It looks for all the world like dim dip though this has never happened in the previous 5 years or ownership. When I fired up again to leave the side lights and headlights worked as expected. Would a 1997 be fitted with dim dip, and if so where is the module mounted? Wont get a chance to look at it again tonight but plan to investigate tomorrow. Any pointers appreciated. Cheers

If the rotor arm is pulled off without holding down the shaft, then the springs on he bob weights can become disconnected from the base plate allowing it to move erratically. Might be worth checking this.