Roverdrive

Thanks Bowie Batteries are connected via an x-eng split charge relay, nothing complicated. The earths are tied together, and one has an earth direct to the winch, the other direct to chassis. Will get underneath while the rain has stopped and check the terminations. Should have added that while maintaining a steady load and rpm, the voltage fluctuates by about 0.7v. It used to be rock steady as long as the load didn't change.

Hi all strange problem with the charging on my 300 Tdi. It is often left standing for 3 weeks at a time, and this time home struggled to start. It has a twin battery system and a 100A alternator. Ran it for a few days without any issues, then one evening after using head lights, it struggled to start after a 20 minute stop. Checked the voltage this morning before starting, and both batteries were a 12.7v which is a bit low compared to normal. Fired up no problem, and voltage rose to 14.02v. Again a bit low compared to the normal figure of 14.2v. Adding electrical load dropped it to 13.3v. On one occasion. Trying the same test it dropped to 12.5v with headlights and spotlights. Strangely starting the heater blower seemed to poke it in to life and he voltage then cam up to 13.6v the alternator is about a year old, and was a genuine parts replacement not from a blue box. Does this sound like the diode pack giving up, or should I be looking elsewhere? Both batteries have been charged up overnight so will refit hem today, and monitor what is happening.

If I unscrew the filler cap on my 300 tdi with the engine running, it stays in place on the rocker cover "fluttering". If I was to put my hand over the filler I would feel some pulsing or pressure. I would call this normal. If when you remove the filler it nearly takes your head off and rolls in to the corner of the garage you have a problem. Are there any other signs such as blue smoke, using a lot of oil ( other than leaks! ) etc.?

Thank you for all of your pointers and ideas. I'll get cracking next leave and see if I can get something cobbled together. Steve, Cheers for the offer, let me know what you find and drop me a line if that is ok? Mike

Thanks for the hints gents. Si, I don't think that will work, as I want an alarm to go off for a set time, and then shut off like a car alarm. I was looking to hack an existing alarm ( Thanks FF I hadn't considered motorcycle alarms ) but the ones I have seen incorporate central locking, volumetric sensors etc etc. I am not going to be using any of that, so it seems like a waste of money. If I am taking this idea forward, I need to keep unit costs down. I guess I need to find a self build timer circuit and incorporate the switch you found Si. Not easy to research as presently in the Atlantic on a ship, and internet speeds are best described as glacial! Mike

Hi Guys / Girls I am looking for a simple alarm for a security project I am working on, but it needs to be as simple as possible! Does anyone know of any self build kits that include remote fob wireless operation, door switch actuation only? No need for microwave space sensing or that sort of malarkey. If there is something off the shelf with just that so much the better, but I need to keep unit costs down if this idea is going to work. Thanks in advance Mike

Cheers Pete from my drawing the purple wire to he caravan socket is fused? i have had the fuse box out to check the wires behind, and given them a good rattle around with the test lamp in place, but found nothing. Dashboard is next. I was thinking of disconnecting the heater plug harness, as it isn't needed at this time of year anyway, so that would rule that out. I have checked the feed to the plugs in case the relay had stuck, but it is ok. Will have another look at the headlight switch. thanks for the suggestions.

Pete No nothing like that. From the wiring diagram, I could change out the under bonnet fuses for something below 30 amp, and disconnect the heat plugs, and see if I can get something downstream of the fuse across the isolator to blow. At least that should narrow things down a bit.

Ralph, it is one of these, or something similar. I know mine is rated for 400 A, http://www.auto-electrical-supplies.co.uk/durite_0-605-20_battery_isolator_switch_with_removable_key_in_the_on_or_off_position?gclid=CN2Yot2nz9ICFVYz0wodw0wHSg Ballcock, there seems to be no rhyme or reason to it, which makes it doubly frustrating! It can go a couple of months with no problem, and then every day blow a fuse. It blew last night as I parked up. No lights on everything off, and turned the isolator off. Within 30 seconds the fuse had blown ( I was fitting the extra security devices etc!) I went back to it this morning, and fitted the test lamp straight away and the lamp did not light. I have since replaced the fuse, and it has not blown - yet!

It is a key operated. Battery isolation switch

Morning all I am trying to trace an electrical gremlin on my 110. There is a battery isolation switch which is turned off when the vehicle is parked, and across this is a fused link to keep alive the radio memory and allow side lights parking at night. The problem is that this fuse has started blowing for no apparent reason. I swapped out the 10 amp fuse for a 30 amp with the same result. The concern is that when diving along with the isolator closed, there could be an intermittent short circuit. The engine bay fuses are all intact, and nothing blows in the cabin fuse box, so I am guessing it must be one of the live feeds to the fuse box somewhere. I have tried putting a lamp across the fuse terminals and shaking e wiring about, including behind the fuse box, and it does not light. Putting the side lights on does bring the test lamp on so I know it works. Does anyone have any experience on known chafing points in the loom to check? Must be live with the ignition off. many thanks Mike

The marine diesel world have been undertaking low NOx conversions for a number of years. We changed out camshafts injectors pistons and turbos to achieve the lower emissions. The same power was achieved with lower EGT, but I can't verify the fuel consumption as what is a few litres when you are burning 25,000 litres a day!

You say you have checked the phase of the props but are you aware that the front is normally set to 45 degrees, not in phase?

Ralph Had similar problems a couple of years ago, but only first thing in the morning in cold weather. Turned out that I had a "slush puppy" in the hydraulics. Accumulated water over the years was partially freezing in the cold weather slowing the return of the clutch. Felt completely normal to drive, just slipped in higher gears until everything warmed up. Not likely to be what you have as you changed the cylinders a couple of weeks ago, unless you topped up from an open bottle of fluid. I'd be looking at the hose, or possibly master cylinder not venting the line pressure off properly.

I can confirm that the offside lights and the dash lights are off the same fuse, as I just popped mine while rooting around behind the dash! might be worth a second look there

One of these might be better than the standard FIA type red key. http://www.durite.co.uk/itm/54084/Battery-Isolator-100A-at-24V-and-500A/Battery-Isolator-with-Removable-Key-in-On-or-Off-Position-100A-24V/060520

As my driveway is more or less level, I put it in third gear, and rock the car forward to turn the engine

Si Thanks for that link. Was wondering how to arrange the new dashboard when I get around to fitting it! Mike

I got a Mudstuff centre dash unit. now I just have to decide what is going to go in there!

Will put it back 1 turn tomorrow and see what that does. Before I adjusted the rod length, the boost was steady at 1 bar, so it seems to have been a result of the changes.

Well it looks as though I have to go back to the drawing board. The max boost is fluctuating. Some times on acceleration it will go to 1.2 bar, and other times only just over 1 bar. This shows in the max exhaust temperatures being 695 up 750 degrees (still better than before) it looks like I will have to go for a replacement boost capsule rather than the rather crude method of adjusting the length of the rod. does anyone know of a source for these, or otherwise the variable boost controllers that can be put in line from the boost side to the wastegate? Mike

Hi a quick update of the saga so far. My 110 had always been a bit smokey under power, but fine off boost. I had a look at the fuel pump, and sure enough it had been twiddled with. I turned the top back about 30 degrees towards the original witness mark on the conical pin, and things were improved, though there was a small loss in acceleration. That was where I left it until sourcing an EGT gauge, and now a boost gauge. The max EGT was 770 degrees on a long hill towing, so I shudder to think what it was before turning the top of the pump back. I have now finally got a boost gauge, and have adjusted the wastegate push rod to give additional boost. I made an adjustment of two turns shortening the rod, and went back to the same incline. Boost has increased from 1 bar to 1.1~ 1.2 bar, and the EGT has dropped to 695 degrees. It's too dark to discern the smoke now, but looking at the headlights behind, it seems to be greatly improved. more fettling tomorrow to see if the initial acceleration can be improved. Mike

You said you checked shaft, did you check the fan is still firmly attached to the shaft?

I can recommend Parkers in Woodland http://www.campsite-review.co.uk/Devon/Ashburton/Parkers_Farm_Holiday_Park.html

I should have said HLB, as the contraption has the home made appearance of any system once dive techs have been working on it for a number of years! I hold my hand up to having worked on dive vessels for a while.