Range Rover Blues

Depending on the model and engine it may also have a connection to the engine management to raise the idle speed whilst the heated screen is on.

Agreed, my LSE is air conn and has a flat cast iron idler pulley on the alli arm. I had a spare Disco engine with non-airconn idler which was plastic and ribbed, it was also bigger. I am currenlty watching a replacement ribber idler pulley on E-Bay withou the arm. I don't recall off the top of my head but I know that the non-air conn idler arrm wouldn't work on my LSE with air conn so I had to nick just the pulley late on friday night when the pulley bearing went on mine. One of them is LH threaded and springs the other way even though they look identical (they are the same cadting) the spring inside is wound the other way. It's entirely possible that one or the other uses the same arm as a TDi. There is of course only one style of belt/tensioner on the TDi (300) as the airconn has a second belt. So it might work using the old idler I can't say, but the belt is shorter.

Hi, it's not uncommon because the callipers are a poor design. The pad is moon shaped and once a layer of scally rust has formed on the calliper the pads don't fit in the righ tplace any more. As that layer falls away the pads can move too far into the calliper and even rub on the disk. One solution is to drill a 3rd hole in the ear you will find stuck out of the pad and fit a 3rd brake pin to prevent the pads falling too far inside the calliper. There are others but they cost a lot more.

Buy a set of rear body mounts or a pair of inner sills and cut the bits you need out of them. 2 years and you've only used 5kg, whats' taking you so long I've gonbe through about 8kg of stainless wire in 5 months.

Sadly they do seem to have earned a reputation for poor quality parts. I have bought some britpart bits that sadly i am dissapointed with and now I always buy SKF/Timken or GKN bearings if I can. However for the stuff that no-one else does they seem to do quite well. Perhaps because they don't have to make to a cost in order to compete I don't know but if you find your front door window drops out because the steel runners has rusted away then you'll thank your stars that britpart make one and it's not too shoddy at all. Buy their pedal rubbers and you may find as I did that your feet grip them better but they are worn out by the next MOT, buy their shocks and find that perhaps they are not quite as nice as your old ones but they are cheaper than the ones you really wanted. Buy their radius arms and find they are just as good at QT ones in every way but the looks. Like with anything if you can't decide for yourself by experience or judgement then you need to think about buying OEM. Spares are a fiercley competative market and like I said some parts are made to a price.

Supposedly Air bag systems can store sufficient charge to deploy the airbags in the event of power being interupted in a crash. I have heard of people in the trade being shot by cars with seat belt pre-tensioners that fire a steel bolt out as the detonate. If you disconnect the battery and leave it for an hour it should be ok. My LSE has a plug on the underside of the dash, once unplugged it is totally passive. Safe disposal involves setting the airbag off in a controlled manner, not like the russian guy on u-tube who sat on it.

I know of Wizard too, he does indeed do the bits you'll need along with other handy LR stuff. He can probably give you some good advice too. I've heard of people doing it with a High lift, if you undo all 10 mounts and the 4 seatbelt anchors pluss all the other stuff* then you can lift one side of the body, leave the sill bolts in place on the other side. the lift the second side and eventually you can fit all the missing bolts back in. You do need to lift the body off the chassis by more than 2". Perhaps a hydraulic lift would allow better control and I'd suggest you rst the chassis on stands to stop it rasing on the springs as you lift the weight of the body up but by leaving one side connected to the chassis you reduce the risk of things going badly wrong and avoid having to line up the body whilst it's dangling from a fork truck/engine hoist/crane/8 of your mates form the rugby club/pair of black & decker workmates etc etc. *Other stuff includes fuel tank pipes and filler, radiator mounts, gearsticks, bumper corners, earth straps, the air filter hoses, possibly bits of your LPG system and some dodgy types of rock sliders. Not an exhaustive list but you get the idea.

Hang on, EFi without a mass air flow meter? how does that work then?

I'm guessing that you have a plastic tank if you have a large knurly knob. The ring should be a normal RH thread, there will be an O ring that might have swollen and be difficult to put back. Drain as much fuel as you can safely do, be aware of static discharges and earth bonding, work in a well ventilated area. Replace the rubber hoses if you can get to them, use new clips too, getting 15 year old hoses to re-seal is a no-go.

A, the weigh an awful lot less than a fully loaded Land Rover B, the do an awful lot less miles than the average land Rover C, most if not all are not sharing the roads with cars carrying other people and their kids. If you are going to affect castor correction on the cheap then far better to alter the axle case as Les did (and reinforce the joint) than start hacking around at the swivel joint. Does anyone know how swivels are made? because if they are cast then the modification should be an MOT fail! Just ask yourself why part modified in thsi way are not sold commercially if it's such a cheap modification.

Sharpies are ok but Steadler permenant markers are better. Neither will work well on oily steel though but that's what I use when I'm welding. I got sick of scratching a cut-line with a piec eof scrap off the floor.

The LR workshop manual for RRC V*s includes the serpentine (well mine does)

Personally I wouldn't be trusting my life to reworked swivles, especially if the metal was high-carbon or chrome steel as you are weakening it. Wedling it up first? that just makes it worse, full of stress, heat effected metal (crystalised) and dissimilar metals. If you realy hate castor correcting arms then buy properly offset swivles from Tomcat Motorsport. Reason why I Like QT castor arms 40% lighter lengthened to correct the wheelbase with the lift corrected at the chassis end and the axle end straightens the spring because the spring seat is level releaves the twist in the lower shock mount and panhard rod bushes straightens the bottom UJ allowing the fitting of a TD5 propshaft/flange for zero noise transmission stops steering wander and re-aligns drag link and track rod all other parts standard/of the shelf. as soon as you fit a 2" lift you will start having propshaft problems, they become more noticeable with castor arms but they are there anyway. I re-aligned the propshaft UJs to make it better but it will always be there.

Then ask JE Engineering, John Eales was the guy LR asked to develop the 4.2 in the first place.

Hell's teeth. My LSE has round rubber ones with "Ford" moulded in them. I didn't know they made conical ones too.

Look out for a TVR lump, based heavily on the Rover V8 but with ported heads, high lift cams and tuned EFi.

My 5.0 has a HP22 but I won't know if it's standard until it gets to Ashcroft's for rebuild. It lasted 60,000miles apparently. When it went it was the torque converter that packed up, it drove fine but wouldn't lock up in top gear. I fitted a second hand box, it lasted 160 miles I want the Ashcroft's stage 2 upgrade, over 1,200 pounds ex works

Anywhere between 9 and 12.5 on my LSE High fuel consumption is the first sign of cam wear or cam chain wear. I know a guy who fited a new cam chain and got 16 MPG. His new cam and powemax chip returns 18 plus mpg on a 3.9 softie.

Top middel of the head, it's the EGR sensor. Mine melted too. One possibilty is that you had low coolant so the gauge sensor was not in the water, hence the low reading. Anotgher is that the gauge is faulty. You can test it with a kettle.

The serpentine engine is not the same as a multi vee 3.9. Nominally they were introduced for the 30 series which was built alongside the new P38 and the True Range Rover Classic, the soft dash. the Interim (IIRC AKA Gemini) used a 4.0/4.6 block with the cast in bosses for cross bolting (not used) and the stronger webbing inside but they were machined to use up the 3,9 crank, the 4.0 and 4.6 had bigger crabk journals. the interinm also had the new oil pump in the front timing case but unlike the P38 it kep the dizzy. Those front covers are a bit hard to find. Also IIRC you can't fit a duplex timing chain to these engines but they are the best 3.9s made, better oil pressure and stronger blocks plus composite head gaskets (not sure but they may have been 10-bolt heads too).

There is a different tensioner for non-airconn Disco models and the belt is also shorter. the tensioner runs on the Vee side of the blet and has a plastic pulley with multi vee profile to suite.

It's not uncommon for the chssis number to be stamped hard enough for the metal to defore inwards. You need to satisfy yourself that it hasn't been ground away or rusted and that all the numbers are pushed in the same amount.

They go in the bottom, each one has a red and a green. Some of mine fell out but they also tend to fail frequently. When they are all working your dash lights can pull more maps than your sidelights.

You can pick up a BMW with good engine for alomost nowt, not sure but I think the Omega is about as worthless.

A lot of what has been said already is true, the 4.0 and 4.6 were majorly redesigned over the 3.9 (and 4.2). the crank and big end journals are slightly bigger, supposeldy to make them stronger but also to generate more lubrication from the thinner oil being used. The conn rods are longer and the pistons utterly different, the crank nose is longer to suite the new front cover, the cam sits in the same bearinsg but the nose is different, you might not make it run a dizzy. HOWEVER, one thing has been overlooked, the interim engine (may also be called Gemini) was machined from a 4.6 block, so it CAN be machined to cross bolt it though it would have been fitted with the smaller 3.9 crank and not cross bolted from new, it is the later stronger block and if you have a serpentine 3.9 then you have all the bits more or less to bolt in a 4.6 long engine as a replacement. You are proposing to rebuild the guts of the 4.6 into the 3.9 however and yes this will mean machining the block. Ordinarily Engineers would say that a used block is better than a new one because it becomes stress relieved in use, but on the Rover V8 this is offset by potential damge from missuse. So whilst it is possible I would want ot price things up before I pisked up a spanner and I'd want to be 100% sure of the 3.9 block.