Jon White
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Posts posted by Jon White
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Does it still fit in the garage?
Of course it does........you do realise the whole reason he's fitting this is so he can attach the winch rope to the beam in the garage so he can winch it off the ground to stop the tyres flat spotting where it never moves for so long........
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Same here Simon. I bought nothing.......
Completely agree about the poor advertising, and this year was about the smallest I've ever seen it......
Jon
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Quite agree - took mine off and threw them away years ago. They knacker the rail co bushes cos nobody ever remembers to engage them regularly, and when they break no parts are available.
I'm with fridge on this one. Don't bother with the bluddy things.
Jon
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You can do it either way, but it's actually easier to take the engine out.
If you haven't got access to a ramp and a transmission jack, then definitely engine out is easiest.
I've done it both ways, and I've also had the box out with the truck on the ground and its a pig of a job that way. Make sure that you correctly shim the new flex plate when you fit it, and also make certain that the dowels between the engine and bell housing are in place.
Jon
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R u f joking nige???????
I, like you, like really well done 2 door bob tails, but that one is f horrible!!!!!! The join in the roof looks like its been boarded over with a scaffolding plank for starters.......
Should have gone to spec savers.......
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The left hand stub in your pics is a front axle one, the right hand one is a rear axle one.
You've bought the wrong part old chap.
Jon
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The slave cylinder is the same, so you can just reuse your series one hence no plumbing to do.
Jon
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I think you'll find you need to go hotter on the fan switches. I've been through this with my truck and found I had trouble with the fans running almost all the time. I only run a single switch now, and found a 92-87 to be about right with an 82 degree stat.
First question is what thermostat temp are you running? Assuming its an 82 degree one.....
I'd be more inclined to run 92-87 for the low speed and 95-86 for the high speed.
That way if the target is 85 degrees, (normal operation) no fans are running. Slightly warm, and the low speed kicks in. if it goes above 95 then the high speed kicks in and it stays running on high speed until the temp has dropped back to 86 (normal operation). This ensure that if it does get hot that it gets back down to normal temp as soon as possible.
Jon
I suspect you'll find with what you first selected that the fans will run almost constantly at low speed otherwise. All this really ends up doing is wears the fans out.....
Bear in mind that all the quoted switch temps will be approximate - you may have to change them around several times to find what works the best.
Jon
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Don't forget you need to tension the pas belt first, and then the alternator belt second. If you adjust the pas belt you will have to adjust the alternator belt well.
Jon
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I think you're on the right lines. Iirc the disco only ever came with a 45 amp alternator, so banging a big one on there makes the problem even worse! It's on that proxy little belt as well. I've tried doing the belt really f tight which stopped it squealing, but killed the pas pump very quickly. In short there is a reason they went to poly v belts on newer cars with high output alternators.
I've never found a solution to it.....
Jon
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Is yours a disco 200 tdi? If so it seems to nigh on impossible to keep them tight!
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Ashcrofts don;'t do series gearboxes.
Jon
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Yes mines 88". As i said -never had a problem.
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Mines probably done about 10000 miles over the last few years since I fitted them (I do about 1500 miles a year) and I have never changed a prop u/j.
Jon
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The downside with the aftermarket system however is that you dont get the automatic load levelling, plus also the speed related suspension lowering etc.
Jon
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Or 1 ton shackles, and grind the spring pads on the frant axle to correct the castor angle. I've been running mine like that with parabolics for donkeys years,
No need to do anythign with the rear axle, as change in agle doesnt seem to cause any ill effects.
Jon
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What year is the RRC? The chassis is the same for coils/air on the later models. If its an earlier model it wont have the brackets probably.
The RRC EAS system is actually remarkably simple and the electronics are very reliable. Once you've got your head round it it actually takes very few inputs so should be pretty easy to retro fit to anything else. Where you may struggle is if its an earlier model you may not have the necessary wiring in place.
I would have air again without a doubt. I think the only reason people take it off is becasue it has become fashionable to do so, or becasue people cant be bothered to take the time to understand the system and to maintain it properly. The air bags do have a finite life, but if these are replaced, the rest is pretty reliable (as reliable as anything else is on an RRC anyway). With EAS unlocker you can maintain and diagnose the system yoruself without having to resort to paying a garage for diagnostics. (I suspect this was one of the reasons people got rid of it in the past).
Jon
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Bypass the flasher unit by shorting the two wires connected to it together and your indicators should then work when you move the lever, but will be on all the time and not flash. You can then check connections voltages etc. You should have 12v one side of the bulb and ground the other. Find the problems in the wiring from there and correct.
Only when you have the indicators working properly when switched to either side (but on all the time not flashing) then re-connect the flasher unit.
Jon
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Yes - 3/4" 48 spline.
I'm sure I found somewhere over here that listed the splined shafts the last time i looked but am damned if I can find it now! They were no money either - £10ish IIRC.
Jon
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A SBC will blow a ZF box to pieces even with the internals uprated. Its the torque that will kill it. IMHO you'd be better to work on a system to adapt the LT230 to bolt upto a box thats really up to the job like a 4L80E or a TH400.
As someone has said already - these adaptors are already available from Marks adaptors.
Jon
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Jaguars use the same size.
Shafts are available off the shelf in various lengths from Summit Racing, Pacific customs and the like.
Jon
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Yes - I've seen exactly this sort of failure before due to a siezed wheel bearing. I'd just repair it - the parts are easily available and its only about an hours work to swap the bits over.
Jon
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Nige,
A couple of points here......
1. Exactly what temps is the gauge showing that you are getting. What is the "normal" operating temperature, and what is the max it has displayed?
2. Have you checked the gauge is actually acurate with a pan of water and a thermometer (i dont care what make it is - have you checked it?)
3. Where in the system is your fan switch? Top or bottom tank or rad hose?
4. What pressure cap are you running? Or are you using the stock plastic header tank?
5. What you have posted about the thermostat controlling the temperature is wrong! A thermostat is designed to maintain a minimum coolant temperature, not a maximum! The temperature rating is the minimum coolant temp.
6.Your normal temperature should be somewhere in the vicinity of 80-90 degrees. Since the system is pressurised it'll quite happily run up to about 110C without actually overheating.
7. Your fan switch temp is temp is too low You need something like a 92-87.
Jon
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No it wont fit. The two gear boxes are different lengths and the mainshafts are different. Its a full gearbox rebuild to swap them over.
I've been down this route with the two boxes side by side next to each other.
HFHs "Centre Winch" Build Thread - ( Finally )
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
You'll regret using that plastic kill switch........I've melted far too many of those they're carp! Spend the money now and upgrade to one of the decent durite metal handled ones..........you have been warned!
I still don't believe you'll ever use a remote. Mount a switch on the dash, maybe another one on the box where you're proposing to fit the socket. Job done. Nobody uses remotes these days.......