Jon White
-
Posts
2,541 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
3
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Jon White
-
-
What part previously failed?
Re read the first post ,the flex plate transmits no drive, in this set up it merely holds the ring gear. breakage of the flex plate(1) wont cause loss of drive, the engine wont turn over on the starter though.
If the drive plate (6) fails there will be no drive, the engine will turn on the starter however.
The only thing I can see that would cause both loss of drive and failure to turn on the starter is the bolts(12) have all broken, as unlikley as that seems.
I don't think they can just come out as the boss(5) covers them, possible to come loose and then break I suppose.
Incidentally, items 10 and 7 have a chamfered edge that should face the flex plate and drive plate respectively.
Incorrect fitment of either will cause problems.
You're looking at a 200tdi diagram by the looks there. The 300tdi is different.
On a 300 the flex plate DOES transmit drive, and if it is broken then the engine will not turn over on the starter.
All the symptoms are classic symptoms of a broken flex plate.
Jon
-
If someone has been in there pissing about, make sure that firstly the two dowells that should be in between the engine backplate and the bellhousing are present. My 300tdi rangie broke a flex plate, and when i stripped it i found that these had been left out by a previous owner. This casued the failure on mine.
In addition bear in mind that you are supposed to shim the flex plate to the correct depth (see the workshop manual for details). Obviously if the simming is incorrect it will cause problems.
Jon
-
Bluddy vapour builders....
-
Yes lucarse are genuine.
However be aware that rotor arms are no longer available either genuine or from lucas, so you can now only buy el-cheapo pattern cr@p!
Coil packs and edis are the way to go.....
Jon
-
You could run them up the split in the middle of the screen, there's a little room underneath or you could attach a slightly more spacious bit of trunking to it, wouldn't intrude too much.
Errrrr dont really think you're the best to advise on where to hide wires John! I've been in your truck remember!!!
:hysterical: :hysterical: :hysterical: -
Do a google for EAS unlocker and you can sort the eas yourself if you've got a laptop handy. You can either buy a lead for a few quid, or make your own if you can handle a soldering iron - all the instructions are on the site.
Works on classics too and i have used it on my old softdash classic..........it works well!
Jon
-
I would add if its an auto then avoid it - I had a factory 300tdi auto, and it was slower than a slow thing on a slow day............it was also thirstier than a thirsty thing on a thirsty day..........
IMHO land rover diesels do not work well with auto boxes.
Jon
-
Hmmm that doesnt give you any indication at all as to what sort of paint it is then! I bet it takes ages to dry doesnt it?
I'd try polisshing what you've got and then go from there.
With the correct thinners and a properly set up spray gun you can get good results when spraying synthetic. I'd suggest next time getting the paint you want mixed up at a proper automotive paint suppliers, whereby they can advise you as to what you need, type of thinners etc and can also adise on spray gun set up.
Regards
Jon
-
Your spraygun is a devilbiss SGA - very very old! Frankly it looks like it could do with a damn good clean! Also bear in mind that sprayguns have to be set up for the type of paint that you are using - there are a number of calibrated parts that you have like fluid tips, air caps etc that have to be sized according to what you're doing.
In addition I'd suggest you've got the wrong thinners. What you have is most likely to be synthetic paint and not white sprit based - I suggest you check wahts written on the tin - post it here if need be. If as I suspect it is synthetic, then you should be using synthetic thinners, which comes in different grades that you select depending on what the temperature is when you're spraying. In addition with synthetic it does help to warm the paint prior to spraying it.
If its white sprit based, then frankly I think you'll struggle to get a decent paint finish by spraying it - period. IMHO you're best using 2pack for the best possible finish and hardest wearing paint, notwithstanding the health and safety implications of course. I personally just to give you an example use synthetic on my truck - but I apply it with a 6" brush!
The knobs on your spraygun - the upper one adjusts the spray pattern, and the lower one adjusts how much paint comes out of the nozzle. I sugest you have a fiddle with them on some scrap to work out for yourself waht they do.
Jon
-
I use an HVLP and regulate the air pressure down to 40psi. Comes out like glass.
I'd strongly suggest investing in some more modern spraygun technology! An SGA is ancient!!! I used to use a JGA, but wouldnt go back having used the HVLP - there is no comparison as regards paint finish.
To fix it, you need to wet flat it with 1200 or 1500 grit paper, to flat the bumps out, then mop it with Farecla to bring up the shine, A grinder is not suitable - you need something that turns at about 1800 rpm.
Jon
-
Well it looks to me that the only thing you've done that actually requires an inspection is to use a second hand chassis. So the first question is do you have a visible chassis number? If not then I'd suggest stamping your chassis number onto the new chassis, mot'ing it, and driving it!
Any of the changes you have done have no impact on it whatsoever.
Jon
-
Do em yourself - no special tools needed and very easy to work on. The haynes manual even gives you a step by step set of instructions on how to do it! at the end of the day they were designed to be field serviceable in very remote areas with the most basic of tools!
Beware of carp quality replacement parts however.
Jon
-
I would sell it - they are just too different to bother with changing over! Cant you straighten out your existing bulkhead?
Jon
-
ooooooh good effort!!!!!!! I spose most people stop when it starts making grinding noises!!!
-
Get the correct kit and it makes it a bolt in job. It'll then bolt onto the series mounts and the adaptor plate bolts it up to the series gearbox.
You also need a modified flywheel. I agree with you about cutting the end off the crankshaft - its a horrible way of doing it. I did the opposite and removed the input shaft from the gearbox and turned it down so that it fit into the standard v8 spigot bush.
A good series radiator will just about keep a v8 cool. You will need to change to either an electric fan or fit a very slim engine driven fan (i ran a flexi fan on mine). You'll also need to convert to a cable operation on the throttle cable, and reposition the battery as there is no room under the bonnet for one. Finally the exhaust is a complete pain - you've probably best of buying one from steve parker as they'd be a complete nightmare to modifiy from anything else!
I'm sure I've forgotten loads.........I took my v8 out years ago and went 200tdi as I couldnt put up with the fuel costs!
Jon
-
I've been running a standard series axle in permanent 4wd for years. Its fine. Alot of people who've never tried it will try and tell you otherwise, but apart from minor kick back through the steering when at full lock, you'd never know the difference. Stage 1 swivels will not fit a range axle tube without machineing - if the whole axle is too hard to get what makes you think that finding bits will be any easier?
Jon
-
Chuckle......well you certainly made my day! Havnt laughed that much in ages!
Jon
-
Well I can tell you how to fix it......but you aint going to like it..........see above post!
I'll get me coat.....
Jon
-
If that had a decent set of wheels on it it'd look quite classy - I quite like it! Totally ruined however by those hideous wheels!
Jon
-
Correct - no lube to the railco bush in the top of the swivel which causes horrendous wear.
A great example of this was the front axle of my series when i got it - completely knackered railcos for this very reason.
IMHO fwh have no place on a landrover. They make no noticeable difference to either fuel consumption or noise, and the miniscule benefits are greatly outweighed by the negatives!
i took mine off and threw them away years ago as they were more trouble than they were worth. I suggest you do the same!
Jon
-
Sounds like the bearings need re-shimming - there is a shim that sits behind the bearing race in the front housing IIRC.
Follow the simming procedure in the haynes book of lies to sort it out!
Jon
-
They dont have an online shop, but are more than happy to mail order you stuff if you phone them up!
In fact alot of the main dealers in this area use them for parts!
Jon
-
Keith Gotts keep a surprising quantity of series gearbox parts in stock. They've always had everything I've ever wanted for on in stock and on the shelf.
Jon
-
i have one of those clarke ones and its rubbish - it wont bend 1.2mm cleanly - the thing flexes too much, and so the ends bend at 90 degrees, but it curves out in the middle, so you end up with a curved edge that you end up havng to hammer and dolly to get straight.
2mm just wouldnt work in one of them i;m afraid!
Jon
:hysterical:
Flex plate - what causes them to fail?
in International Forum
Posted
Check for crankshaft endfloat as this can also be a contributiing factor. I had to replace the thrust washers on mine as with 200000 miles on it the endfloat was excessive!
Jon