bernie

Hi, Sorry to hijack this thread, but where is the plunger that was causing the problem?

I had a similar problem and changed water pump as well as tensioner and squeak was still there. Just an idea, spray wd40 on waterpump belt and if squeak disappears, its not waterpump bearings, On the 300 engine the tensioner pulley doesnt sit straight under belt it seats a a very slight angle causing the squeak as the belt runs across pulley, there is an article on here regarding the Penny trick which i am told you put between pulley and engine when tightening pulley mounts up, this levels up the pulley and makes the squeak dissapeer, so i am told, ( still have to modify my one).

Have now sorted it, cheers for all the help.

Just in the middle of changing pipes, just gone to put new ones on and did not take any notice of which pipe came off which fitting down by oil filter, A) is it the top cooler hose with the straight fitting or B) the top hose with the corner connextion on it? HELP , or does it not matter which way round it goes!!

Where is the location of the gearbox plunger, that people talk about that could be faulty on a R380?

Last week i put a posting on here regarding notchy gearchange, The clutch and all componments were changed 6 months ago, and to be sure its not mastercylinder that was changed again last week, but the mistery deepens, I have worked out that all forward gear changes are OK, untill you move backwards about 20-30 feet. Moving backwards to turn around in road, no fault. Reverse backwards more than 20 feet, and then try to select any forward gear, and it just wont go, after approx 2-3 mins of trying it all just decides to work again and it flows easily into any gear again. This gearbox is on a 1994 300 tdi.

Use any other make but not brit-part, i fitted britpart clutch parts and they lasted 2 months then had to do the whole job again, as brit-parts failed.

I have Renault megane rear seats fitted in the rear of my 110, they are in place of the orignal LR seats, they fold. slide forwards/backwards and recline. They bolt onto the existing landrover seat frames, Will hopefully load photos when i can work it out.

I tend to use Paraffin for cleaning parts, As its cheaper than petrol, smells better and not as flammable,

Thanks for that Mo murphy, What i cant understand is that the master and slave, of which both are OE replacement parts, and were replaced August 2009.

Have reset pedal, but no difference, But have discovered that when you first turn engine over to start you can hear the clutch dragging trying to turn gears over as well. But if you try to start it with clutch pedal pressed down to the floor, it is just the engine which turns over. Will start with rebleeding system first.

Been and tried again to work out whats gone wrong, have worked out that if you put it in gear and release clutch, its fine and then grabs clutch, and then if you press clutch pedal to floor it is not disengaging gear until you move gear stick into neutrel, as you can feel vehicle roll slighty on moving stick into neutrel. Looks like to me as i have to remove gearbox again. Just realised that clutch pedal height is 170 mm and not the 140mm recommened height, would this cause a problem.

Just a thought!! when this first started to go wrong yesterday, when engaging first gear defender did move forward as you engaged gear.

Also noticed that the clutch fluid is now black looking, Why? This was changed last august, would this have anything to do with fault.

Ok, Oil level ok but not changed yet as dont have a ring spanner to undo drain plug, would it make much difference changing fluid.

Hi western, Do you know the size of the star like socket required for removing the oil filler plug, Cheers

Whats the best oil to use?

Not checked oil recently, but will go and do it today, and most probely change the oil for new, as i havent changed the oil since i bought the defender in dec 08. I bought it from foleys and they did a full service before buying it, so not really paid any notice to gearbox oil.

Today whilst in low ratio the gear lever become stiff, this happened when going backwards. The gear lever got stuck and wouldnt move, Turned engine off and tried again, no luck, after approx 2 mins managed to get it into a forward gear, but gear lever remained notchy, The problem is only there sometimes, managed to limp it home but you could change gear it was stiff but possible. After i parked up and left vehicle for approx 10 mins, got back in and found that the lever had freed up and was really smooth again. Went through all gear changes whist stationary but with engine running, this was fine for about 3 complete gear changes through box, then it went stiff and notchy again. When you are in gear and press clutch pedal down the clutch works fine and you can even sit there with it in gear but with pedal down to the floor and all is fine as it disengages the drive. The clutch was completely overhauled last August with new slave, master, pressure plate and release bearing and a heavy duty arm fitted. The defender is a 300 tdi on a 1994 plate It seem to me like something to do with the gear selector, but not sure what. Any ideas?

Hi Mark, Make sure that island put in a heavy duty clutch arm, this arm is plated, this makes clutch arm pivot point twice as thick. Cheers Bernie

Dont know about a D2, but on my 110 the only way i could remove all the air from heater matrix was to remove one of the pipes to matrix, and fill it up from here with water, as the matrix on a 110 is higher than radiator,

If its a britpart one that could be causing a problem, i had a new clutch slave and master cylinder pack up only a week after fitting. Also make sure that the bleed screw is at the top, otherwise you wont be able to remove all the air. You should not see fluid coming out of bellhousing, i would suggest removing slave again, and checking the seals havent blown, + you also find that once you replace the slave, the master will soon go as it cant cope with the new pressure form the slave.

Britpart Master clylinder gave up on the way to alps, was fitted the week before i went, 2weeks later in alps i lost my clutch completely, cost me nearly 400 euros to be recovered and repaired, and a totally ruined trip in the alps, as i was without the 110 for 5 days

Thanks to everyone for all their help.

Update on my clutch, In my attempt at getting the slave cylinder rod back onto the clutch fork The Clutch fork had pulled the pivot point arm out of the gearbox housing, Is this normal for the pivot point arm on a 300tdi defender to only be a push fit into a hole. After dropping box out and repair/replace all seems ok