Gazzar

Remember: don't use GL 5 specification oil. The additives in the GL5 oil will corrode the brass and bronze in the syncros at temperature. If you can't get GL 4 in your motor factors then try an oil distributer in an agriculturial area: my Castrol dealer supplier 20 litres EP90 to GL 4 for 70 euro (50 pounds?). I think GL5 will do for swivels and steering boxes, but not for diffs and gearboxes. G.

Where abouts are you based? G.

Especially the disco instruments! G.

Also: do you have a timing light? G.

I've fixed a buzzer - just soldered it straight to the lucar spade on the relay. It does exactlty what I thought it would do. Nice. Probably not an issue for the Irish DOE, but a good idea anyway. Cheers Fridgefreezer. G.

Success! Purchased Flasher relay part number 206 from Halfords, underneeth motorbike electrical bits. Opened instrument panel, removed lucas part from top of inside of panel. Disconnected the unit, connected the dark green wire to the 49 connector, 49a to the light green connector and made a new earth wire from the inspection socket. Tried right indicator - flashed very fast. Drat. Checked bulbs and, naturally, one had blown. Replaced bulb and everything worked. Connected trailer board and - - it all works! I've just got tp tidy everything up and I'm done. By the way, what is the trailer warning lamp for? Is it a legal requirement? And woudl a buzzer do? FridgeFreezer, thank you. G.

FridgeFreezer Got one, it looks like the only additional work necessary is the extra Earth. I'll have a go at wiring it in tomorrow and report back. Cheers! G.

I'll try one - if I can get locally. It looks to have more connections than what I have fitted currently. No doubt I 'll figure it out eventually. Thanks, G.

I've just wired up my trailer socket on my '81 109 Petrol. When I connect the trailer lights everything works, except the incicators flash too fast. I presume the relay/flasher unit isn't up the the job but what can I do to fix it? G.

I think that if you change the dumb iron to a blank one, and stamp the VIN, then all they check is that the VIN matches the logbook. You shouldn't lose the age if the new vin matches. You might lose the age if you have the wrong VIN (if you keep the current dumb iron). The problem is that you'd need to be in the UK to do all this. I recall that before the SVA regeime the Vechicle Registration Offices in the UK used to instruct kit Car owners to get the Chassis number stamped at a MOT station. A nice man from the ministery would then inspect it and all would be ok. I've not lived in the UK for years so things may have changed. Perhaps you could subcontract this to someone? G.

The SVA (Single Vehicle Approval) is a scheme in the UK (and Northern Ireland - I think) that exists for cars that do not have a manufacturers type approval - basically kit cars and the like. There are Government run SVA centres that examine a car and issue paperwork stating that the vehicle is in accordance with the rules. Most EU states have a"catchall" in their legislation that allow for "approved within another EU state". You may have to read the legislation and bring a copy with you, and I understand that the Dutch authorities can be as stubborn and unhelpful (but in a nice friendly way) as any other state but, armed with the paper your should succeed. You may end up with a different UK number plate but you don't care - all you want is the paper work. Ensure you retain the age of the vehicle if there are any age related exemptions in the Netherlands. Link thing: http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/Buyin...hicle/index.htm g.

Sounds about right - I presume they should be 8.8 tenstile strength metric and heat treated imperial. g

I think that if you restamp the dumb iron whilst the vehicle is in the UK, get the vehicle a SVA certificate (in the UK), and then represent it with the UK SVA cert to the dutch authorities they may have to take it under EU regulations. There IS a solution, it's just to find it, and convince your local authorities that they have to accept it. G.

Ok, Just checked mine: I got the information upsidedown. The tabs on the main plate use long narrow bolts and attach each side of the rear tub mounting plate at the top of the crossmember. Two large long bolts connect the plate to the bottom of the cross member. Two large short bolts connect the plate to the angle iron, which is attached to the underside of the crossmember using three bolts that screw into the pretapped holes in the crossmember. 9 bolts in total, 2 long narrow, 2 long big, 2 short big and 3 small. G.

When I did mine I wirebrushed (on a grinder) all rust back to bare metal. I then applied a coal-tar based rust paint - Lowe Rost. This is used in marine and agri industries in Ireland. I then applied black waxoyl mixed with 5 - 10 % new engine oil. I used a schultz gun and an old schults container to apply this. The waxoyl dries out to a slightly tacky texture. Needs replenishing around the wear areas every year. If there was any waxoyl on the chassis then paint won't stick, so I'd either remove it, or, most probably, apply a new coat of black waxoyl on top. G

Glad to help. Use the proper bolts. G.

As I recall (shed is locked co can't check) there are 6 bolts that attaches the main plate to the cross member, 4 big and 2 narrow (might only be 2 big). There is also a strip of heavy angle section steel (angle iron) which attaches to the three tapped holes in the bottom/underside of the cross member and bolts to the two heavy tabs on the plate. If you didn't get the angle iron then don't worry, it is just standard stuff - nothing clever. G.

I think it is possible on most defeners. Try posting in the defender forum, the regulars there know more about this sort of thing. g.

Ok, 1968 109 SW - Bolt up into nut 1981 109, ditto, The nut goes on the shelf, and the bolt goes into the nut. I fitted the tank on the 1981, 6 months ago and found the same problem so did it that way. G.

Checking now. G.

Result. Well done. G

Looks like it could be a one off job - rear tub and roof both look hand crafted. Non standard door lock suggests it wasn't done by the factory, but I could be wrong. Was there any "Built in NZ" campaigns in the 1950's? Some countries reduced the import duties on vehicles if a percentage was locally produced, or if they were assembled locally. It might be worthwhile checking with previous owners. G.

The steel wolf rims fit, but the turn stops on the front axle may need adjusting. The rims are wider than stock, and the offset is different, I think. You may need spacers, and you may also need longer wheel studs. G.

Ok, I know its Monday, but whats an RD28? Thanks, G.

I've rebuilt one - got the bits from craddocks as I recall. Wasn't too difficult - usual tools - vice/hammers etc. g.