BogMonster

Yes I think you are right on the S/M lamps had forgotten that! The injectors are a monstrous price!

I think it probably needs the fault to be read, fixed and cleared to get rid of limp home but some may reset after an ignition cycle. The switch pack on the side of the gearbox is one common cause - if the ECU is getting a dud reading from the switch then it will panic and default to 3rd gear but you usually get an error on the dash, IIRC it reads "E" instead of the gear selected.

That would be my view also!

Yes if you run 10x15 on unsurfaced clay roads, visibility out the side windows isn't even optional It isn't great with 8x15 but it does keep the spray down a bit. They do just rub on the arms on full lock but not too bad, better than my old BFGs I think. Front end view here http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...20&start=20

Only 200 grams - you lightweight I might try rotating them, see what happens. One of them is obviously very not round when you spin it on the balancer!

The auto gearbox is a separate ECU to SLABS no idea whether the Rovacom has got it or not though. I think power may be restricted in limp home mode I know it drives like a dog as stays locked in 3rd gear which makes for very un-sprightly takeoffs Airflow was a "rule it out" thing so you have done that

The speed sensing on the Series 2 Discovery is calculated as the average from all four ABS sensors since all vehicles have ABS fitted there is no sensor on the transfer box. Oversize tyres will not make any difference to how fast the vehicle thinks it is going and are not going to affect it that much anyway unless you have 44" fitted It is a long shot but check the high-low sensor on the transfer box is operating properly - I am just thinking that it might account for both the reduced power and the f**ed up speed reading if the ECU thinks the vehicle is in low range? Maybe the gearbox is stuck in limp home mode though that wouldn't (shouldn't!) affect the revving in neutral Airflow meter been changed? not really sure but I hate faults like this and I am glad it is with you and not with me

You are thinking the same way I did and I am not fully convinced by the explanation but if it works I will try it...! An explanation is given on Scrappies' Dynabead site here http://www.dynabeads.co.uk/ about how it is supposed to work but I would also have thought that it would go to the pointy part of the egg

Oil in the harness doesn't produce any fault codes in my experience. The misfire that results from oil in the harness shows up on the injector balancing diagnostic as one or more injectors out of range, but I have yet to see an engine that actually cuts out because of the problem unless the oil has got into the ECU and killed it. It might be that, but from my experience I would say it is less likely than the injector washers especially if the problem appeared suddenly - oil in the harness starts as a small misfire when the engine gets hot (fine when cold) and gradually gets worse. But of course I am not looking at it sitting in front of me

I think part of my problems might be down to the fact that the Balco balancer uses the centre hole to locate the wheel not the stud holes but as it is the only balancer in town it wasn't worth arguing about it! Having said that I have balanced alloys on it with no problem before now. Awaiting an answer from D4x4 anyway

I would think the best solution would be to use some of the inhibiting stuff they use on aero engines when they are to be laid up. Some 2 stroke outboard fogging oil might also work, though I don't know about that option - both are designed to do much the same thing. I suspect the answers will mostly centre around a teaspoon of engine oil in the glow plug holes though

Yes you could, using a similar idea, but I just whacked the valve until it closed and then unplugged it

I don't know if you can change it (not that I know of) but of course the TC locks in 3rd gear too and I tend to use that a lot on my D2 - it doesn't half go when you squeeze the pedal in 3rd locked

I don't think they do "all" have a machine! Inside info if you like

A dealer will be able to tell you the key number if you have the VIN and can prove you own it, the info is all held centrally by Land Rover - though won't help you if the locks have been changed already! They should also be able to order in a key cut to the key number. If that fails then fit a whole new lockset.

I have bypassed the EGR on the one at work simply by unplugging the modulator

Probably a dud wheel speed sensor, I had a similar thing on my old one once

Cheers Tony, might take you up on that

Well I have asked what they will charge for postage to here so if it is £84712 I may decline

Interesting, thanks Steve The tyre balancer machine said I needed 255g on one bead of my modulars and 225g on the other so with 480g in total I don't know if 6oz is going to be enough, though I suppose the fact that they are at the outside of the wheel rather than on the rim must make the same weight more effective. One site I looked at said that for 33x13.50-15 you should use 8oz per wheel. If it gets rid of 80% of the shake then I will be OK with that anyway, and I suppose I could always get another packet and split it between the 2 wheels. Only thing I did see somewhere is that you are not supposed to use them in a tyre that has had a plug put in it, so I guess if you get a puncture it is either throw the tyre away or put up with the shake. I think the only thing that would go through a Mudzilla would be big enough to destroy the tyre anyway, like a fencing standard, so it isn't a big deal for me. I think I will try some just in the fronts, and see what happens. If that works I may get some more for the other wheels. Sent an email to D4x4 to enquire about shipping costs and await a reply...

behind the right hand side footwell kick panel according to RAVE

I don't have a high street ATS and I am the local tyre seller

Back to the original question does anybody apart from Scrap Iron sell them? I have wobbly Mudzillas and despite half a kilo of lead weights on each front wheel, still got steering shake at 45 and 55. How much do they cost in the UK anyway? Edited to say I have found them on D4x4, duh must read post properly in future

Ta, I was hoping they might be more than the ANR2938s rather than less - I guess they squish more

Has anybody got a RBC100111 Discovery 2 front spring isolator to hand, that they could measure and tell me how thick they are i.e. how much they will lift a vehicle. They look to be a little thicker than the ANR2938 isolators which are about 9mm each, but I am not sure how much. Can't find a definitive answer on Google or here and I could take a wheel off my Discovery and try and measure one on there but I figured somebody has probably got one handy? No guesses or "it looks about that thick from the photos" please, only measurements I'm assuming from what I have read that they fit straight on to a 90/110 in place of the standard metal turret ring?