BogMonster

Post a photo (not too big!) and lets have a look. I think a 1998 vehicle will be either Rioja Red or I think the solid red was Rutland Red at that time, so maybe the pillar you have is Rutland Red.

I wouldn't, because the Td5 crossmember is nowhere near as strong as a 300Tdi one. If you are going to the hassle of changing it, put a proper one on!

I doubt they will fit exactly as all the panels are different but they might look "ok" - probably the only way to find out is to give it a go!

Yep cam sensor would be my guess too. The couple I have seen seem to break down when they get hot. Good news is it is easy to change

1.5" measured where? If wheelarch to wheelarch then the difference spring to spring will be much less. I would say the springs are defective if it is as much as that with the vehicle unladen.

They were factory fitted on 300Tdi age Discoverys, on the top of the rear spring only, but they will fit top and bottom on the front and rear of anything except a 110 rear spring for the reasons stated. I have had them on all of my vehicles and I do feel they make a difference to transmitted vibration etc at least my vehicle feels quieter than others driven on the same roads. At the moment I have them on top of the front only but I intend to put a pair on the bottom as well. Lift is about 0.3 inches per spacer.

I'll have ten cases of Merlot then please Mr Mog Sir

The twin battery setup fitted by LR Special Vehicles on police car conversions to the D2 has the second battery in behind the trim in the rear loadspace, its a tight squeeze and a bugger to get out though!

As Cipx said e.g. sample VIN number: SALLJGMF7TA123456 SAL Manufacturer code: Land Rover LJ Model: Discovery, 200 Series (1989-1994) or 300 Series (1994-1998) G Wheel base: 100 inch M Body type: 4-door station wagon (LWB) F Engine type: 2.5 litre Tdi diesel, model 11L (200Tdi) or model 16L (300Tdi) 7 Steering and transmission: Right-hand drive (RHD), 5-speed manual (LT85, LT77, LT77S, R380 or other) T Model year: 1996 A Assembly location: Solihull, UK 123456 Serial number

Left hand button (pointing away from the red button) winch in, the RH button winch out. It might defy what helicopters do but I haven't got a helicopter and it makes sense to me which is the important thing, though I did also think about writing it on so it was clear in case anybody else used it. Same as mine and a great bit of kit. I'm not even sure where my wired remote is these days

Ah that was the elusive thread - thanks Still all blx as per my above description and the only vested interest we have in this site is keeping it running smoothly

I presume that was a PM from "somebody"? To which the answer would be: no details apart from the forum charter http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?act=Help...E=01&HID=17 and the fact you can see exactly who all the moderators are in the members list http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?act=Help...E=01&HID=17 (sort by admin or moderators in the appropriate box) and also who is the moderator of each forum on the front page. I don't see the need to post personal details i.e. name/address/phone number/mothers maiden name for the same reason I would not post it anywhere else on the internet! And for the record we are completely unpaid for our time, no benefits in kind (e.g. free magazine subscriptions) or anything else.

If it's got a 2 button alarm check out the spider

Yep another vote for Brownchurch, though you should be aware that while the roof rack is strong, the truck cab roof isn't!!

You certainly can change them successfully, the seals on my old Discovery had to be done when it was nearly new and I sold it 60,000 miles later with the same (completely dry) steering box. The main thing is to do it sooner rather than later as otherwise dirt seems to get drawn into the seal where it is leaking and scores the shaft, and then it is scrap... From what I have seen at work where they are done quite often with reasonable success, the best things to recommend are 1) Take the box out and do it in the vice as trying to do it in the vehicle is a waste of time you are working upside down and will not get it right 2) Make sure everything is spotlessly clean 3) make sure there are no nicks and scratches on the shaft to damage the seal on the way in or it WILL leak! 4) You will need a F great big puller to get the droparm off if it has been on there a while! I have also seen people wrap the shaft with a layer of insulating tape to slide the seal down over without damaging - a bit of oil helps things along too

If they are that cheap I agree. The main reason I fixed mine was that there wasn't one available and the pigeon to the moon takes some time to arrive and I wanted my window fixed The spot welding is a bit carp so it is worth putting some extra ones on to strengthen it, if you can get hold of a decent spot welder.

That does seem very cheap. I have no experience with those particular ones but often with tyres you get what you pay for...

Just poppers IIRC, but you will break several of them when you remove it so have some spare ones The spot welds on the regulator have probably failed, you can either buy a new one, or if you know somebody who is handy with a spot welder and can get it in exactly the right position, you can spot weld the bit back on again, I had this done on my old D1 and it lasted for years but you have to get it exactly right or the mechanism will jam up.

The first bit was quite correct (don't use too much welly!) but where the logic for the second bit comes from I do not know?

IIRC the alarm ECU is in the passenger footwell though it is a long time since I last looked for one You are looking for a little plastic box, green in colour IIRC, with "Lucas 10AS" on it. It's shown in the workshop manual so no great secret

Tangier Orange LRC761

Yes you would.

Sorry but you have read it slightly wrong LJGAF is LJ - Discovery G - 100" wheelbase (they all are) A - this is the letter for body type your list gives Truck Cab, Soft Top or Hard Top (Utility body) F - 300Tdi engine I am not certain of the listing for the body types in your post (I think there are some others) but I am 99% certain that the Discovery 5 doors are all ...LJGBF... so I don't think you should proceed on the assumption you have made. I will try and remember to check it at work later...

You have obviously never been in Hybrid_from_Hell's 4.5L Eales V8 then I remember going for a drive in it a couple of years ago with Nige - just the sound of the "Symphony of Simex and Eales in F Major" is enough to break the windows in any chavmobile that you might see retreating in the rear view mirror A Defender is the ultimate Q car if you put the right motor in it.

Sounds like a dodgy ignition switch to me, the switch on the back can be changed separately from the actual barrel, IIRC it is just held on with a couple of screws or bolts.