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BogMonster

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Everything posted by BogMonster

  1. Tut tut tut It was "Schpitfeuer" Also don't forget "Hande hoch Tommy"
  2. If you have them on offset rims like 8 spokes or modulars they might, but the standard offset (i.e. any LR alloys or the Discovery steel) should be OK
  3. Chris, as Ralph says yours will be Chawton White LRC603. Prior to that the Defenders were Alpine White, but that was some way back in the Tdis - think it may have changed to Chawton when the Td5 came in (99 model year) but I don't remember exactly. There is a new white called Alaska White on the very latest models (not seen it in the flesh yet) but yours will definitely be Chawton. I think Alaska only came in with the Puma vehicles. Although we do some body repairs at work we don't have the ability to colour match but white is one of the few colours that seems pretty much guaranteed to match every time so if yours is noticeably different I would think there is a possibility they have used entirely the wrong colour - some of the older shades of white vary quite considerably in their "creaminess" if that make sense some of the poofy colours like silver and sky blue pink are a bugger to get right but white is pretty safe usually!
  4. The pump should run for about 30 sec when you switch the ignition on and then switch off. You should be able to hear a low hum if you put your head under the back of the vehicle. A noisy pump is probably on its way out, a completely quiet one has already gone!
  5. 235/85R16 is a factory size these days, though most vehicles have 7.50R16 on steel wheels. 265/75R16 will fit with no problems and used to be a factory size on 90's in the late 1990s, but will only fit on 7x16 rims - they were fitted on alloys by Land Rover, the 5.5" steel rims are not wide enough for a 265 (manufacturers will tell you they are also not wide enough for 235s but experience begs to differ!). I run 265/75R16 on Land Rover 7x16 alloys on my 110, and it causes no problems at all. Mine http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopi...20&start=20
  6. Does it have an alarm and immobiliser? If immobilised they will crank but not start, but you should have a light on the dash indicating the immob is active.
  7. correct - next to battery
  8. AFAIK the LT77S had better (!) syncros on 1st and 2nd to remove the crunch on the 1-2 change. Except that it didn't. So maybe the S stands for Sod all difference.
  9. Take a photo of it and post it up here it will be either a basic one, an EGR one (basic + some electrical carp) or an EDC (lots of electrical carp) you will need the right pump and if it is an auto it will probably be EDC
  10. I learned my German from Commando comics so I fear I will not be a lot of use as mine is mostly limited to "Himmel" and "schweinhund" etc
  11. Castrol EPX80w90 is what we use in diffs, LT230 t/box and swivel housings here.
  12. Despite having a Milemarker I would say an electric for what you want to use it for. The Milemarker is 100% reliable in my experience even if not used for a long time, and I have mine on my third vehicle now It is also very light - I can pick up the winch and the Bikini mount with one hand - never weighed it though I would guess maybe 30kg? However it would cost probably nigh on twice what a TDS would cost which is lots of £ per pull.
  13. I am pretty sure it won't fit and as said you need to have no legs to get in the middle of the new ones anyway. I doubt it would meet type approval for an 07MY and if there was an accident I would think the insurers would wash their hands of it. It certainly isn't available as a factory item on the new model.
  14. Yes otherwise when the oiks pass the winch cable over the roof and hook it on your tow hitch then short the pins in the remote socket it gets quite expensive. Wouldn't get them far with mine though
  15. I thought Difflock did them but not sure
  16. Check the tracking too as this can cause problems. Especially if you clout the track rod on something so there are a couple of inches of toe-out
  17. I am fairly sure that GKN are the OEM part for UJ's i.e. you will get a GKN joint if you buy a genuine one. They are certainly as good as you will find The splines on the shaft will wear but unless really bad this might just make a slight knock when coming off and on the power or driving over rough ground. It can be annoying (very!) but that is all.
  18. I saw a photo of that in a magazine - OR&4WD I think - probably the same one it was definitely a RR and I remember the head restraint being missing. I have been looking for that mag as I thought I still had it somewhere but never found it.
  19. One way of passing the time if you have no vehicle to get about I suppose
  20. Bearmach would be my choice we do loads of business with them and they are really good to deal with http://www.bearmach.com/distributors.html Ask for branded or OEM parts rather than the own brand ones
  21. The sliding joint may be dry but is unlikely to make the twittering, if it sounds like a bird wedged somewhere then it is probably a UJ. The prop tools are all fairly expensive, it will take a bit longer but a couple of 9/16" AF combination spanners will do the job. I have a prop tool as I think they are worth it and you probably will too after the first time
  22. Wheel bearings make horrible noises, but so do small stones lodged in the brake disc guards or calipers The UJs are worth checking too, if it is making a noise like that it will not be so much "dry" as "heading for the bin", if in doubt change it as they make a mess when they let go and you end up with all sorts of nasty dents in the floor and a desperate need for a change of underwear
  23. Disregard the question as I have got an excellent quote from Bearmach for a new one and at the price it is not worth bothering with recon
  24. We need a replacement turbocharger for a Freelander at work, an L-series diesel. Has anybody got any suggestions of good reconditioners etc that might be able to supply a good recon turbo? I have obviously Googled it but while it turns up suppliers, it doesn't tell you whether the supplier is any good or not. Something cheap and reliable would be fine as the vehicle is 10 years old and I guess we won't be keeping it for too much longer - not worth the cost of a new turbo which will knock the stuffing out of a grand if a Tdi one is anything to go by! Ta
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