BogMonster

Front LH wheel normally spins first if not in difflock. Could be the weight on the drivers side on my vehicle though

Not sure about prop lengths but otherwise no reason why not.

Yeah that is pretty much what I found... wait in fear for the Three Bongs to arrive I know somebody who blew the top out of their D2 ABS modulator and the general thought was it happened because it was working flat out all the time (the vehicle lived off road).

BFG AT or the cheaper nearly-equivalent, the General Grabber AT2, if a good all-terrain is good enough for your off road use. Otherwise, if you need something more aggressive, the BFG Mud-Terrain is surprisingly refined for a mud tyre, despite its age. I run BFG AT's on my Discovery 2 (255/70R16 though they are also available in the std 235/70R16 size) and I am about to invest in some Grabber AT2s for my Ford Ranger for much the same reason - standard road tyres are just too useless when it gets wet.

"key in ignition" warning?

The traction control requires a few revs to really work properly - I can crossaxle my Discovery in low 1st at idle and a wheel will spin slowly in mid air without the ETC engaging at all! A bit of throttle and it wakes up and locks the spinning wheel. One of the reasons why ETC is vastly inferior to proper difflocks IMHO.

Sorry, I don't have any other ideas at the moment then.

Most likely it was removed/unplugged because it rarely worked properly - my old 200 had the same and it was "rather prone to false alarms" and then "not rather prone to actually telling you when the ruddy pads were worn out" if I recall correctly...

Only somebody familiar with it could tell you whether it is normal or not. If you fill in your profile to say where you are, you might find somebody willing to take a listen, who has a D2. It is an annoying noise though, and it triggers far too often when not needed, and then when it is needed it doesn't do the business. I'd take the old fashioned centre difflock any day, but as I use the Defender off road it isn't a big problem for me. Fitting the centre diff lock kit from Ashcrofts would certainly cut down the racket off road, if you use it a lot off road. I'd also point out that the standard factory tyres are carp, and the ETC has to go all the time with them to stand any chance of getting anywhere. Decent tyres which actaually have some grip are a worthwhile upgrade...

Welcome Yes it is. Somebody described it recently as being a bit like driving over a muffled cattle grid, which is about right.

A quick search revealed that older 80's RR inertia switches are supposed to be under the passenger seat, check there. A common fault being to bang it with the hoover when cleaning inside!

Camel Trophy ones are 200Tdi's, but you have a valid point! Have a look under the front seats, I seem to remember some of the older Range Rovers had one there?

I don't think the laws are retrospective? I.e. you can't fit sideways seats in new vehicles (hence the 7 seat 110SW now on offer) but it is not suddenly illegal to use the 1983 110 which you have been using for the last 25 years, which would be daft... Then again this is new Labour!

It can be done but having taken a set out, you need zillions of little brackets and things and it would be a fiddly job. You'd need to cut the trim panels too as the seat brackets come through the trim. I always found the bins I replaced my seats with were a lot more useful

Brilliant idea But in the interests of safety, what is a safe way to do this? Presumably grinder or gas are a bad idea for cutting up old gas bottles I have even been a bit nervous using a cold chisel to cut tops out of old 45gal petrol drums in case of a spark!

I thought somebody posted a link to a Disco 200Tdi age (which would cover yours) workshop manual for download just in the last week or so, but I don't have time to look for it at the moment, I'm sure its on here somewhere though! These switches are normally located in the engine bay. If all else fails you could try and follow the wiring back from the pump I suppose.

Stone jammed into a caliper is most likely. Had all sorts of diagnoses from beloved customers including wheel bearings, brakes worn out, axle broken, etc etc etc

Yep - got the whole lot on the HD and a small folder with shortcuts to each. Note that it will place an icon on the desktop but this will only load whichever one you used last!

Can I have some?

Ignore that list. Clear all the faults and drive it again then plug it back into the computer - the Td5 is infamous for creating reams of fault codes over a period of time most of which mean absolutely nothing!

Yeah but the diseasel obviously needs some development as yours used to misfire all the time

Yeah the "special tool" is basically a primer bulb with the correct fittings on it which goes in the fuel line and you use it to pump the fuel up to the engine, though what then happens when you disconnect it I don't know - maybe there is a non return valve on the line. I can say for sure that it doesn't self-prime, because I heard the swearing... It isn't my truck (thankfully), more of a general comment on the wisdom of the engineering which makes an in-the-field filter change impossible. Definitely an idea from the school of thought that devised electric handbrakes

FFS and if that wasn't bad enough: "LOW FUEL INDICATION AND RUN DRY STRATEGY The run-dry strategy is used to maintain the systems fuel prime at fuel run out. It ensures the minimum amount of fuel is always left in the swirl pot. The instrument cluster activates the yellow low fuel warning light, (next to the fuel gauge) with 15% of fuel remaining in the tank. The fuel gauge will indicate empty with 11% of fuel left in the tank. With 4 liters left in the tank the run-dry strategy will be invoked. An engine mis-fire will be induced for approximately 1 mile after which the engine will be shut down. The engine can be re-started in mis-fire mode and will continue to run for a further mile until the engine shuts down again. This can be repeated until the fuel suction port in the tank is uncovered and causes engine fuel starvation and loss of prime. Re-starts after run-dry shut down are not recommended. " I love my Tdi

Here's a challenge for all you Defender 07MY owners. Especially the ones planning to go around Africa or something. Invent some way of changing a Defender Puma fuel filter which does NOT require a dealer special tool to prime the fuel system (no I am not joking) I think they call it progress....! Guessing they don't plan to sell all that many to 3rd world expeditionary types...

Do they really make something called that?