BogMonster

In the engine bay IIRC, though rocket science should not be required to follow the brake pipes from the round bits on each corner till you find it

Wibble?

Not on a Discovery Les, or not AFAIK. You can convert the Td5 age Defender hubs to the Tdi type adjusting nuts and it is a useful mod, but the Discovery 2 has a sealed wheel bearing arrangement which is, AFAIK, a completely sealed unit that can't even be greased.

316 is marine grade stainless and will not rust even on exposure to salt water. The tilt rams etc on outboards are made of this and it is designed to be immersed in salt water all the time so it should be OK for an exhaust

I suppose you could call it the BogMonster 12000

Simmonites I think? No idea if they work though - I'd be interested to know the results if you do get some

Why not just use a 4 pin centre in a standard Discovery diff? Ashcrofts do them.

Where are you trying to end up with the mic located? The instrument binnacle, A post and headlining would be the route i Would use

Dad has a UK spec 110SW from the mid 80s which had a Boge unit and the soft springs on the back and to this day I still reckon it is the most comfortable vehicle I have ever been in over rough ground.

Don't be a skinflint, go and buy a Lodar

Correct with 1 & 2 - "driver demand sensor" is engineer-speak for throttle pedal Fault 3 means nothing logical (there is no such thing as a "topside switch"!) but it usually means that the ECU is knackered I am afraid... 95%+ likelihood this will be the problem. My next step would be to fit a known good ECU and see if that cures it - I would have done what you have already done first.

I think there was a recall to do with tanks but it was for the D1 I thought Will see what I can find out...

It involved the rods which put the brakes on, and I bought it at a military cast sale because the brakes were seized on Bolt croppers, hammer, tow home Not recommended for UK road use tho

THe Sankey probably hasn't got auto reverse brakes? Or if they have then the auto reverse bit isn't working or is seized. I have a Sankey but when mine did that I engineered a permanent solution in about 2 min that involved a set of bolt croppers Probably needs to be moved to the Military forum

230mm according to my tape measure, though it is hard to tell where the corrosion stops and the body starts, corrosion resistance is not one of Milemarker's strengths What did you do to your old tie bars?

All Defenders come with daylight as standard because the factory are too goddamned lazy to build them properly - the difference is whether or not the dealer does the PDI properly and goes round blocking the holes up in the corners as well as other bits and pieces that aren't properly finished ex-factory, like putting the box on straight on 130HCPUs etc etc!

Fitted on what? You can take it off but the springs fitted with the Boge unit on 110s are definitely softer, so the ride height will be a bit low unless you fit the standard springs. Not sure about Range Rovers if it is a RR.

Doubt it is cost effective to be honest, and you will apparently need to change stuff in the auto box to make it work properly as the shift points are different.

I had trouble with mine on refitting to the second vehicle I had it on, because it wouldn't bleed until I held the reservoir way up high to get the oil to drain down, once the oil was into the pump it was fine. So fine, in fact, that the returning flow sprayed out the top of the reservoir (which I left off) all over the bonnet padding, engine, garage roof, me, tools ..... Needless to say I left the lid on the reservoir when I fitted it to the 110

I know the sensor is unreliable, no think and can be about it The warning light exists purely to indicate a broken sensor. Best thing to do is chuck it away!

Anyway as I am bored with arguing about who is right, and back to the original question.... Somewhere in the dark recesses of my mind I have a thought that the potentiometers for the electronic diesels contain an "idle switch" which tells the engine that the throttle is closed (because it is a bit unreliable working on the resistance value from the pot). When the throttle is at less than X% it will go to idle. I haven't checked this in the book but perhaps a dodgy idle switch could cause the problem.

5 things: 1) your link doesn't work... 2) what you refer to isn't mentioned in the user manual I was referring to because I just checked 3) it might add fuel but it doesn't alter the fact that it shouldn't be necessary in temperate climates and on an engine that is working properly even if it is recommended for starting at -30 deg C - England was "temperate" last time I was there - it is colder here most of the time and my Tdi springs into life at freezing or a few degrees below with no problems as do all the others I drive on a regular basis (about 10) 4) your caps lock key appears to be stuck 5) who is Bogmaster anyway?

Have a very close look at the bores as the last one I saw a head off had a six inch crack top to bottom in No. 1 cylinder, which explained where the coolant was going

And don't even think about buying the crappy orange copy

Somewhere in the dim recesses of my mind I recall seeing something about the alarm receivers in these vehicles. If the alarm ECU or the receiver thingy (which I think is a separate little black box up in the headlining, though I haven't had many dealings with this) receives continuous interference over a long period which it interprets as an attempt to signal it, it shuts down to avoid flattening the vehicle battery - because every time it hears a signal it "wakes up" to listen to it. That could be what is happening - may be something to do with where you park it at night? I think the remedy was to fit a different type of receiver unit, but parking it in a different place might be just as effective. I'd guess your lock/unlock on the key probably resets the system and you park it in a different place during the day which doesn't have the interference, hence you don't have the problem during the day. The bad news is that you probably (can't remember) need a Testbook/IDS diagnostic system to set up the new receiver and test it properly.