BogMonster

Quick question: does anybody know if a standard 110 Td5 fuel tank guard as available from (insert any helpful suggestions here - I know BM do one and the Southdown one is another option) will fit a Puma 110? I think the back end is probably the same as on the Td5 Defenders with the plastic tank, but not 100% sure...?

Yes indeed - post up some videos I think the most important bit is the connection between the seat and the steering wheel but that is true of just about anything I suppose! There are plenty of people in the world who need one of those stickers saying "All the gear but no idea"

The HRC number is a casting number and will not match any part numbers! Exhausts have the same thing, no idea why. It mostly looks like a 200 but from memory the dipstick looks wrong, can anybody with a 200 compare with theirs?

said the actress to the archbishop

A bit off topic but http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/part_80.html that looks nice

According to RAVE the V8 stall is 2200-2400rpm and the Td5 is 2600-2800rpm. I think the Td5 stall speed is bonkers, logic suggests it should be somewhere around the peak torque figure surely!

or 18L or 21L or 23L

I don't know if Ashcrofts do this but if they don't I should think they could point you towards somebody that did? May also be worth asking the tuning companies like Fearn etc as they must have the problem with twiddled Td5s I would think.

http://www.4site4x4.co.uk/4x4-wheels.aspx look on here

You CAN fit a tube but you aren't supposed to. I understand there are companies that will weld a wheel professionally but I'd suggest by the time you do that and pay for it to be repainted it would be cheaper to fork out for a new one and you'd have the old one as an extra spare if required. Boost alloys are a specific type, others include Deep Dish, Tornado/Freestyle, Castor etc etc - the differences are quite obvious when looking at them. I would suggest contacting 4Site as they do an identical copy of the Boost which will be cheaper than the genuine item and if you change over the LR logo centre cap nobody will know the difference

Maybe somebody has rebuilt a 200Tdi with a TD block but the 200 should be 11L IIRC. Post up a pic and lets have a look, preferably a couple of pics from different angles.

I'd take it back to the repairer and whinge in the first instance - a good modern tyre machine shouldn't damage alloys at all, and on top of that an alloy wheel is not supposed to have a tube in it either! A bit of minor damage to the alloy will not affect it unduly, over time there will be minor corrosion on the rim but you can buy touch up paints in the correct Silver Sparkle colour so you could do that and it would keep it at bay for a while.

Thanks, it is for me not my employer though - living out in the sticks we have to cart fuel to the house in 45gal drums, though I do use it for work as well. I lean towards "sticky" on the basis that a rubber mat in the back of any vehicle I have had has always been essential, even though the drums etc are ratcheted down they can still move a bit.

Yeah that would be a problem.... I don't know what I think on the slippy vs. sticky debate, my inclination is that a grippy bed would be better as it would stop stuff sliding around but I don't know. A sheet of marine ply liberally soaked in exterior wood preservative is another option I had considered, but it doesn't get away from the problem that 1) I still need to paint the bed with something or it'll rust, and 2) it'll still trap water underneath. The rubbery chunks sounded quite appealing to me too

What are people's opinions on these spray on pickup bed treatments, or indeed anything else good for coating working pickup load areas with? I've been looking at Protectakote but also wondering about using stuff like normal undershield/stone chip, or the sort of bitumen-rich waterproof roof paints that you can buy, as a cheaper option (and an option that can be found locally, which would be helpful). I've now got a Ford Ranger crewcab for a little workhorse but carting full 45 gallon fuel drums etc in the back is going to take its toll sooner rather than later and there is already a fair amount of rust in the bed from the previous owner, it had been worked fairly hard and the paintwork has quite a lot of minor damage. The drop in bedliners seem to cause more corrosion than they prevent as far as I can tell (trapping water underneath and chafing the paint through with vibration) so I wondered what else might be a good idea - I have treated all the rusty spots with Kurust (magic stuff) just debating what to splat over the top of that... Ta

Me too

I think you meant not

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Are you sure it isn't the usual Disco rear door disease - handle jammed? All you need to do is pop out the LR badge from the outside handle, push down on the inside of the flap and then it will open. Lots of WD40 and working it back and forth sees it moving freely again, until the next time. It is more a Tdi fault but I think it also afflicts Td5 age vehicles.

Lovely car, stupid price. I would probably buy one if it was £5000 cheaper. Great to drive on road, surprisingly good off it (much better than the old ones) and a good evolution of the old Freelander in exactly the way the Discovery 3 wasn't a good evolution of the D2...

Early Freelanders had a problem with moisture ingress into the ultrasonic sensor which caused false alarms. Most should have been picked up by now, the fix was a new sensor which was sealed properly. It's up in the headlining somewhere, I forget exactly where. Try locking it with the key not the plip, I *think* this should disable the interior sensing which will narrow down the problem. The best way to check it is to plug into a computer which will tell you the cause of the last few alarm triggers i.e. door switches, bonnet switch, interior sensor, ignition on or whatever, this will narrow down the fault. I'd put money on the interior sensor though.

Maybe a sign of CV troubles, or maybe even a CV joint gone completely and occasionally grabbing - the Freelander will drive in 2WD quite happily!

I think the price is good for what you are getting. I'd probably have one if I didn't have a perfectly good Milemarker - I love it!

Interesting indeed - I had been told "officially" that Omitec were no longer supporting the system but looking at their website it would appear that this has changed. The old Testbook 1, apart from its poor screen and the fact it was always far too slow, was arguably the best of all of them in terms of providing a one-box solution for use in a workshop environment. Glad to hear the price of "Omipro" has come down - the prices charged to dealers have always been outrageous and this is still true of the current IDS! I wonder if the availability of the T5 will have any effect on the prices charged for the IDS...

Not sure then sorry - all I know is that the bypass worked on the one I did, which was a 1996MY 300Tdi manual. Emergency Key Access code - entered via the drivers door lock if the remote is inoperative for any reason, to disarm the alarm and immob. Instructions to use it are in the handbook and the code should be recorded on the vehicle security card.