BogMonster

The newer ones are painted (mine are anyway, and lots of others I have seen) and are red rusty inside a year.

Neither am I aware of it, mine is the same (less than a year old!) and "they all do it". If you find a source of plastic or otherwise non-corroding ones, could you let us know...

Is that so you can drive it in London Now I know how some of the Japanese manuals get translated - Babelfish

Coolant circulating through the heater matrix would be my guess

Probably didn't see that coming ...

You can fit 255/70R16 to a D2 with no lift - I have those on mine I would think 265/75R16 might be possible but it depends on rim offset too Of course when we are pretty much guessing as to what age of Discovery we are talking about from three different models and nineteen years of production, any advice given is necessarily somewhat general

Welcome : Yes they are all limited to 82mph though people are "working on it" - not sure how or whether they have been successful or not

YEs the D2 discs often don't last as long as you would expect from older models. Not sure but I guess the pad compound is harder - the pads last longer than the old ones. It's more noticeable on autos. Mine are quite worn at about 37k miles but some life left in them yet - I guess I'll be looking at changing them at around 50k.

This thread is worthless without pictures to illustrate the issue

Power, direct earth, and earth via door switch I would guess. Not sure what in which order but it shouldn't be hard to figure out with a multimeter.

Yes it will be Epsom Green which ran from earlier than 1996 to later than 2002 as the "dark metallic green" (because I have had a 96 and an 02 Discovery and both were that colour)

Very easy - pull them off and push new ones on

Or since it vaguely follows the 8274 you could use the same concept... First number as the line pull in '000lb Second number as the "version" (I think?) Year of design That would probably give you a Somethingorother 12108

A S3 starter solenoid (the square shaped type with a tit sticking out of the top of the square) is commonly used on Lister generators on many of the farms here so that will definitely do the trick. With a bit of ingenuity you can build a complete auto-start system to control it as well - I did in my A level electronics lab when the control box on Dad's Lister HR3 caught fire, so we had a fully auto clock-controlled set which came on and off at the appointed time Edited to add: one of these http://www.hollandrover.co.uk/starter-sole...ries-3-35-p.asp

LightYearMarker Like a Milemarker, but much faster

....nice if you like it to look like primer

24

Fuel pump is a possibility - can you hear the hum of the pump running when you switch the ignition on? should come on for a while then switch off if the engine is not started. Think it is about 30 sec from memory.

B***cks - "normal running smell" indeed, what tosh and anybody who said that should be ashamed of themselves. I only know of one D3 round here that has needed a new clutch and that was down to abuse, more specifically because it had been revved and slipped excessively to overcome the lack of power caused by faulty EGR valves - the clutches certainly aren't a "weakness" unless maybe you use it for heavy towing all the time or (please don't take this personally) it has a lousy driver. The electric handbrakes are a liability on all of them so that doesn't surprise me.

Possibly. The Grabber MT's were certainly extremely popular tyres here, sadly no longer available.

Have you checked the glow plugs are operating OK? Extra power means the engine spins faster so it will start easier, doesn't automatically mean the battery is dud

I think your theory is probably correct.

My Ranger is getting a set once the standard tyres are worn out. Can't give a better recommendation than putting your own money into a product

The long overhang on the D2 rear (it is longer overall, but has the same wheelbase so the rear overhang is a lot bigger) and the fact that both front and rear bumpers are one-piece, plastic, and splinter into a thousand bits at the first sight of a proper ditch, is bound to put people off - on the old ones the plastic end caps took a beating but were not that expensive to replace and could often be repaired. Also the caps and front skirt could be removed on a D1 making a fairly respectable approach angle, the only thing you can do to a D2 is saw the bottom half off and then it looks awful with the washer bottle hanging out the bottom etc. The fact that the Td5 engine stalls as soon as it gets within 6 ft of a kerb probably doesn't help the appeal either, nor the fact that you really need to add an aftermarket centre difflock kit to make it work properly - the ETC by itself is rubbish on a D2, it always feels like it is struggling to control what is going on even in fairly mild situations. The fact it tends to panic and then throw a hissy fit when the going gets tough doesn't help either!

I would say the Grabber AT2 is the next best thing to a BFG AT personally, and a useful amount cheaper. I don't really think Dunlop have much market penetration at all in the UK 4x4 market, you certainly don't see them advertised much.