BogMonster

Woops, missed this... All I recall is that when I checked the parts fiche when I first got the vehicle, there was no separate part number for the filter. Maybe somebody has made one since. Mine still goes like stink so I have not worried about it, I just always fill up from the pump never from cans.

Not sure which is uglier, the standard hearse back end or the fridge back end

But as hinted above, for lifting the safety factor will be minimum 5x and if intended for lifting personnel I think the SF may be as much as 10x. Most "standard" winch hooks are only rated/stamped to 2 tons... even the big swivel hook I have on my Milemarker is only stamped 3t, and that's on a 4.7t winch!

Consider yourself put in your place, impudent administrator

Second hand Scrapiron springs are available in a variety of lengths so I understand Having got that cheap dig out of the way, yes it is normal on most LR vehicles for drivers side springs to be a half inch or so longer than the passengers side. Even on the vehicles with the tank at the back (in the middle).

I guess you should be able to buy the fusible links - it is basically just a big fuse so in theory could replace it with anything of the same rating. Which one is it / can you post a pic?

The Tdi engines are pretty basic and should contain no surprises for any competent mechanic even if he/she doesn't speak da lingo. There are a number of online bookshops selling workshop manuals I think, though check as a lot of them only start from 300Tdi vehicles. I don't have a 200 manual handy but somebody will probably come along shortly who does

Welcome If you do a search on here there is a lot of info on leaks - but the most likely cause of the leak in the back is probably the alpine lights or (if fitted) rear sunroof, and a possible cause of the soggy carpets is either the bottom of the windscreen, or cracks in the floor around where the bulkhead body mounts go on - I had this in mine, just pulled up the carpet, covered it up with silicone sealant and left it at that - too much hassle to repair the cracks so it was easier to fix the leak and forget about it...

Er ... cue some rocket science http://www.google.co.uk/search?hl=en&q...earch&meta=

Yes you can get wide JATE rings, not sure where from offhand but I have seen them advertised. May be worth trying David Bowyers, First Four etc. - it was probably one of those places.

If there were still 3L of oil left and the light didn't come on you have probably got away with it!

My 300Tdi Defenders only do a whisker over 20mpg most of the time so that is not bad for an auto - however in answer to your question I would think 60k miles is worth having their spray pattern checked, I read somewhere that many modern injectors are past their best by 60k miles, on the other hand I changed the ones in my old 1995 90 300Tdi because like you I thought it could be improved and to be honest it was a waste of money as it made very little difference! As long as they are atomising properly they are not worth changing, and if they aren't then you usually get to know about it either through rough running or a hole in the top of one of the pistons

At a guess you will have to take the airbag off (taking appropriate precautions), remove the steering wheel and the trim around the column and it will probably be quite easy after that - but I've not done it. Not something that usually breaks!

Yeah and door seals are supposed to keep water out All Td5's (can) suffer from it, whatever anybody says to the contrary. The new ones just do it a bit less.

My suggestion would be to forget DVD's, get a head unit with a USB input into it and put everything on a USB memory stick in MP3 format. You can buy no-name 2GB or 4GB memory sticks for silly money now (check out Novatech) and fit quite a lot of music on them - I have a 2GB stick which has about 10 albums on it and it isn't full. Track/folder skipping is much like Fridge described above.

Diff and drive flanges are things in my mind, just trying to get a clearer idea of the fault

I thought all Tdi autos were like that - boot to the floor and wait 10 seconds before it starts to move

In other words they probably don't have a clue Airflow meter is one possibility, fuel pump on the way out is another, EGR is another but likely to occur anywhere and will cause clouds of black smoke. Injector harness causes a misfire too, but cheap to replace (£40 approx) and may be worth doing.

Breaking the crank circuit is just as common in my experience. A guide to doing it is also on this forum http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=86

1996 model year was what I meant... TA vin numbers onwards.

Not necessarily. There is a lot of play in transfer boxes anyway, it is what makes the clunk and it doesn't mean that it is broken. I'm assuming if you put it in difflock and try to drive it, it doesn't move - does either the front prop or the rear flange move with it in difflock?

Yes - and then only on 1996 onwards vehicles with the two button alarm plip

No idea offhand - if there is a gearbox fault you normally get the Sport and Manual mode lights flashing and the box defaults to 3rd gear for limp home mode. I just looked in the workshop manual and there is no mention of what you describe. May be a problem with the switch back on the side of the gearbox as these do fail but I suggest plugging it into a diagnostic computer to see if the outputs from these make sense - it isn't cheap!

Silverline 4x4, can't remember the price offhand but ordered 20 anyway so probably got them a bit cheaper He has some in stock in 33x13.50x15 as I only queried it the other day

No I mean if you drive it with all wheels on the ground, does either prop turn underneath? Basically try and drive it against the brakes while somebody looks underneath to see if anything is spinning.