BogMonster

I read the title and I thought I was going to have to moderate this post If it is an original box with 200k miles on it I should think you have had a pretty good innings out of it and I would plan for a replacement! Most LR gearboxes are well past their best with half that.

Sounds like the alarm is going off in which case the problem most likely has nothing to do with the spider unit. Disarm it with the remote or try the EKA code and see if it starts then.

Dealers no longer use "Testbook" and haven't for several years. "Testbook" (and Testbook 2 and Testbook 3) was superceded by the "T4" (cockup with the trademarks - I read somewhere that HP still own the Testbook name!) a few years back which in turn is now superceded by the "IDS" (Integrated Diagnostic System) a year or so ago which I think has Fraud origins and does all the new vehicles like D3, F2 and the Puma engined Defenders. Omitec (makers of the T4) are now plugging the old T4 product commercially, and I think you can buy one if you have about ten grand to spare! I think they still call it the T4 though. Don't know what a "Commercial Diagnosis" is, never seen one.

Not something that unduly concerns me at this point in time

23L is a Discovery Tdi, don't think it is a V8! Which fanbelt depends on which alternator pulley you have - early vehicles have 61mm pulley and need ERR3287 or PSQ000030, later vehicles with 49mm pulley (which is what yours should be) need ERR3287 or PQS000040

The Td5 tanks are not great, and have a habit of this. I'd change the cap - there is a pressure relief in this which keep the system pressurised when hot to increase the boiling point of the coolant (as with most modern cooling systems) and if this isn't working it could leak - it should blow off but not till somewhere between 10 and 15psi system pressure, IIRC. If leaking it also could **** your engine if it gets too hot and the coolant boils locally inside the engine...

Paul Wightman on here has certainly done it, a few others too though I can't think of any other names offhand. I thought there was a thread on the subject somewhere...

I always wondered why they said you should use it periodically during the winter - now I know

Yep - and it might not be practical. A customer of ours that purchased an export spec Suzuki Jimny a few years ago tried to import it back into the UK and found the emissions were a nightmare. It ended up costing her thousands of pounds to modify it to UK compliance on emissions so it could actually get through the SVA test - same problem, it was a non EU spec so there was no off the shelf CoC available. I wouldn't recommend it - but I don't know what regs apply to bikes?

The ABS on later Series 2 Discoverys is much better but it is still scary in some slippery off road situations, mine is a 2002 Discovery 2. I had ABS on my 1996MY Discovery and it was horrid in all situations but on loose gravel roads it could be terrifying and the vehicle would take 2-3 times the distance to stop on "marbles" as it would skitter across the top rather than digging in and slowing rapidly, as would be the case without it.

In theory probably yes (though check the max weight the rails can hold), in practice it will probably depend on where you are carrying it. I suspect you'd find if you are carrying it on rough/corrugated roads in Africa (or here!) that the roof would split in a fairly short time due to fatigue.

Can't say I have noticed a NVH problem having driven vehicles with both and the later D1 V8 went back to using a UJ on the rear prop! I too share the concern about about ETC hammering the **** out of the drivetrain, it's rough on everything and I do wonder with a V8 auto swinging on it, how long the 2 pin diff would last if used all the time in off road conditions. Fortunately I have a Defender for that

I probably couldn't justify it as I have a perfectly good Milemarker on my 110, but damn I would love one and will be interested to see what the price looks like Also interested in any sort of engine driven pump arrangement. Especially if it can be made to fit a Milemarker at reasonable cost

We sell loads of tyres at work and I have never heard of such a thing either - we have one of the doofers shown above (or you can do what I do and just use a big valve key...) If you do find it, more details would be interesting I should think with some lubricant (ooer) lots of patience and a small flatbladed screwdriver you could probably work one through from the outside in some rims (i.e. 8 spokes etc) probably not in alloys with recessed valves though

X-Eng probably don't have a clause in their handbrake instructions that says "do not use this product for handbrake turns" either but I doubt he would be over impressed if somebody took one back and complained they broke it doing that!

You can change a clutch with just a Phillips screwdrive? Damn you must be good....

The radio will probably lose its preset memories (and if coded, you will need the code) and the clock will need re-setting but that is all I think. Make sure the alarm is deactivated before removing the battery, and if your vehicle has a BBUS check the procedure for battery disconnection (whgich will be detailed in the user manual) or it could get noisy! Most BBUS systems need to have the battery disconnected within a certain number of seconds of switching the ignition off e.g. ignition on, ignition off, disconnect within 15 seconds or some such thing. Not sure about the D2. Usually if you don't follow the procedure it will squeal at you and you need to reconnect the battery and disarm with the plip.

I thought that was a little brave/silly as well

A lot of things say you should not use water at more than 65C but whether that applies to pressure washers I don't know. The motor itself is probably not water cooled - more likely air cooled. I have always been going to try it but it is on the "round tuit" list for a few years now - one problem is that you don't naturally have an outside water tap producing hot water! I made up an adaptor out of a modified washing machine hose to attach a Hozelock type connector and source hot water from the washing machine hot tap but I've never used it.

Details on the bulb are in the tech archive thread - its available from Halfords but should be available from any LR dealer too!

I think you'll find the bearings are a PITA to do.

The D2 V8 uses a wasted spark quad coil ignition system controlled by the Bosch engine ECU so if it is interfering with the control of that I bet there is plenty of potential to have buggered up all sorts of other things!

PLEASE DON'T SHOUT! Could be fuel pump, or maybe the airflow meter (low airflow means the engine will shove less fuel in)

The rubbing noise may well be the bearings on the rear propshaft - when worn they make a "rubbing noise". Clonk almost certainly the rubber bushes which locate the rear diff as said, it typically makes a clonk on hard takeoff or lousy gearchanges.

I should say it won't shut it up completely - mine still kicks in far too often but that is partly due to the surge of torque you get at the wheels in a V8 auto when you prod the throttle which almost always causes a chatter and shower of gravel on a loose surface - manual and auto Td5s I have driven are much less inclined to do it.