BogMonster

I would have thought if the water pump was broken it would be boiling merrily... likewise if the rad blocked. Not sure what to suggest next

I don't think Gems V8s do have the dreaded spider, though I have never seen a Gems vehicle.

Yes. The EDC system is electronic (obviously, otherwise it would be called NEDC) and thus 1) It starts less well than a proper pump does 2) Being electronic it won't like big voltage drops (as is produced by a dubious and hungry starter motor, just to pick a completely random example) and therefore 3) it will be adversely effected by both 1) and 2) and will be more likely not to start... Change the injector pump if you like and put a proper one on, then you will 1) have fixed your throttle pedal problem, because it won't have a stupid sensor on it any more 2) start, because as long as there is enough voltage to crank it over and hold the stop solenoid open, it will go and 3) have spent about ten times as much as a new starter motor

ECU's and injectors are different and need to be right for each other, the later injectors (post 2002 model year) have higher injection pressures. I'm not sure if everything else is compatible but you certainly need to ensure those bits are matched.

correct ^^^

If you want a genuine water pump go to a genuine dealer and pay a genuine price. Easy really, and could easily be done in the time spent whinging about it on a forum

If its "really genuine" it will be in a LR Genuine Parts labelled box or bag. That looks like an aftermarket one to me - though of course depending on who made it, and where you got it from, it could be an OEM one which is the same manufacturer as Genuine just without the expensive box

Best you change that starter motor and use the time saved not having to jump start it every other morning then

Yes - I guess it might be possible to reconfigure the engine ECU to think it was a manual but it's another obstacle... otherwise there will be lots of warning lights and the Three Bongs will be coming to stay

I read somewhere that the S/S hinge bolt kits sold by various suppliers are great except that they make the panels corrode instead of the bolts so not really progress in that respect

I would say don't, because the V8 manual is horrible all notchy clacky gearchanges. I converted my old Disco from manual to auto because I couldn't stand it any longer! An exchange gearbox from Ashcroft Transmissions would be the way to go.

all Tdi stats are 88 deg, the idea of having different ones for warm and cold weather stopped somewhere around the end of the S3's

I should think any of the parts places i.e. Bearmach/Britpart would be able to sort you out with that

Aren't the NAS Discoverys fitted with some variation on the Range Rover GEMS engine management?

Hmm not sure what the second one is.... turbo maybe ... and I don't have a Td5 Discovery handy to confirm where the EGR solenoid is. Don't disconnect the other one because the turbo probably won't The EGR solenoid has: - 1 pipe coming from the valve on the inlet manifold - 1 pipe coming from the brake vacuum circuit - 1 pipe as a breather - this will either go to the air filter box, or to a separate little inline filter The turbo modulator - if that is what the other one is - should not have a pipe going to the EGR valve on the inlet manifold. Post up a pic if still not clear

It is the delicate aroma of shoulder pork and ham, Les

Why would you go back and forth frequently to see the postman?

Welcome Yes it may well be the EGR valve sticking and not closing immediately. Locate the small vacuum pipe coming from the valve on the front of the inlet manifold and trace them back to the solenoid unit - you should have 3 air pipes (one to the valve, one to the airbox to vent, and one to the vacuum brake servo) and an electrical connection going into it. Unplug the electrical connection and take it for a drive - if it is the EGR valve and assuming it has closed properly, you should find the problem disappears - the EGR valve is probably opening on part throttle and then sticking open so by unplugging the solenoid you are disabling the system. It will log a fault code in the ECU but that doesn't matter, try it and see what happens. If that fails I have another idea, but try the EGR first

Hallelujah! Suggest you tot up the amount of time you will waste between now and the end of Feb jump starting your vehicle and you will probably find it takes a lot less time to change the starter motor...

Forget checking the thermostat, just change it and get a genuine one not a cheapy one - they only cost about a fiver and it is money well spent. I have never managed to identify a dodgy thermostat yet with the boiling water test but changing them always does the trick! They are often not working 100% after as little as a year but few people ever realise that...

Bush or bolt squeaking, or maybe the spring squeaking on the mount would be my guess. Check all the bolts are tight in that area for starters.

My D2 has the highline 11 speaker option: Tweeter in each A post (2) Door speakers in front doors (2 each door - 4) Door speakers in middle doors (2 each door - 4) Sub in the rear door The sound is not "wikkid blingin" like a Nova would be but damn good when you wind up the volume for a bit of a blast, very balanced.

Couldn't agree more.

I thought the original diesel RR's had a heated filter? may be the same unit I would certainly like one for the **** fuel we use here, it would help a lot...

The ones I have driven often have a pronounced crunch on 2nd (even changing slowly and carefully) and the gearchange overall is not significantly better than an R380, just "different" and I think I prefer the old quirks because they seem to be easier to drive round. In fairness I got the impression that it was probably the effects of the Land Rover tolerances in the rest of the drivetrain making themselves felt, rather than the actual gearbox itself. It'll be interesting to drive a 100,000 miler in a few years time