BogMonster

I would have thought if there was too much oxygen they should give you a medal If there are no fault codes showing it could be difficult to find... who fitted the engine? I would talk to them first...

Yes indeed.

It isn't a service item AFAIK, basically you check it when it ceases to produce cold air

Hello and welcome The most likely problem (assuming you mean not blowing cold air from the a/c, rather than jammed on blowing hot air all the time!) is that the a/c system has lost pressure. There is a safety cut out in the system which means when the refrigerant leaks out and the system gets below a certain pressure, the magnetic clutch on the a/c compressor is disabled so that the compressor doesn't end up running "dry" and seizing up. A refrigerant leak is by far the most common cause of a/c failure and is often missed in cool climates or in winter months. The easy thing to do is to set the system to maximum cooling ("low" on both sides temp control, and a high fan speed) and check the a/c clutch to see if the middle of it is spinning, also you should hear a slight "clack" as it engages.

If you don't use a filter it might be OK with diesel? taking out the filter would surely reduce the load on the pump and those in tank pumps have got a gauze strainer on the pickup anyway which would take out anything major. Isn't veg oil pretty thick though?

I will have a look in a parts book if I get time but haven't at the moment sorry

I have a feeling the very early ones were one sort and nearly all the rest are the other sort but can't remember which is which. If you can provide VIN and engine numbers to your parts supplier they ought to be able to tell you from that I should think.

Ah is this a case of "charge what the market will stand" then

Depends on what you do with it. If you give it 4000rpm and drop the clutch in reverse low range with Simexes fitted, steering on full lock and the front end buried deep in a 12ft deep drainage ditch, you will undoubtedly be right - can't see it making much difference in "normal" use (i.e. where people don't bust CVs every other weekend - road use 99% mentioned)

I have a set of 265/75R16 Insa Turbos which I don't use any more because they are too noisy for every day tyres and not wide enough for the occasional set. The ones in this size are MUCH bigger than the same size BFG etc (an inch taller and about an inch wider contact patch on the ground). No sign of any significant wear, I suppose they might have done 1000 miles in total something like that. No idea on the Fedima never seen a set but I should imagine there isn't much to choose between them. The price of either of the remould options makes me wonder why anybody would pay twice as much for a tyre with the same pattern that is still awful on the road and will still go pop if you stick something sharp through it.

It was a Genuine Part though I doubt it is still available.

I've got one similar to Jim ^^^ except a tube not a plate and they are good but if stored loose they clank around in the back of the vehicle like a Cyberman on steroids and need 3 trips to the end of the winch cable to cart it all out. Much stronger than the spade type though, in the right sort of ground. I carry both of my anchors at all times when I go away.

Based on my experience of "modifying" (much to Nigel's amusement ) KittyGrippers I would say the blade looks too steep and when I bent mine even the small increase in blade angle meant it didn't dig properly and tended to tear out instead.

<Smack> :angry:

Not necessarily, because if the steering box gets too much off centre it will start to get play in it with the road wheels in the straight ahead position (check the amount of play at full lock to see what I mean) so to do it properly you should actually centralise the steering box, then straighten the wheel, then adjust the drag link so the wheels are straight ahead

Drive one before you look elsewhere - it is a 2.2 in fact, 158bhp/295lb ft and the ones that Autocar here went like sh&& off a shovel if you were in a hurry I'd like one - apart from the price - but if somebody else was paying.... definitely.

Phew, with 4.7T I guess I am just on the right side then Mind you I did bend the BACK of the chassis on my old 90 trying to winch something rather large (the 90 wouldn't stay where it was needed so I chained the back to a 20ft container... )

Let us know what happens please ... both with the delivery (or not) and any problems you may have (or may not have we hope!)

Yes but towing a 3.5 ton trailer on the road (which is what it is rated for) is a very different set of forces to a bloody good tug with a stretchy tow rope attached to a very stuck vehicle. Towing a trailer on road with no jerks and bangs is pretty easy going by comparison. It took me about 3 min to fit the kit and a NATO jaw to my new 110 with a rattle gun the other week. Make it 5 min with a normal socket set

But my Tdi can pull away with no throttle in 1st quite happily and it doesn't stall as soon as you touch the throttle The Td5 can do some quite steep hill starts with no throttle but you have to be sooo careful letting the clutch out that I always thought it was a bit of a waste of time. Give me a Tdi off road (and around town) any day - the only place the Td5 is better is in high speed cruising IMHO

Well you must have been bluddy lucky then because I know lots of people that have bent the crossmembers with a lot less than that. The days of being able to take off flat out in 3rd low difflock on the end of 10 metres of 24mm nylon (which I could do in my old 1995 90) are well and truly over.

Is it that good? The Td5 was supposed to have anti-stall and it was about as effective as firing a spud gun at an aircraft carrier No sign of any for this part of the world yet

All I know is "noli illegitimi carborundum"

The LR chassis bracket kit is KNK100090 and basically consists of a bit of angle iron which bolts to the bottom of the crossmember (3 bolts) and then bolts to a bit which goes on the rear of the crossmember with a further 2 bolts. Depending on whether you fit a NATO hitch in the four M12 holes or a conventional hitch that fits with the 2 x M16 bolts, you can then put additional bolts through this plate (which is about 6mm or 8mm plate can't recall which) and that "helps". It does NOT make the crossmember suitable for serious snatch recovery and I have bent the one on my old 90 with only a modest snatch (low range 2nd gear not many revs). Then I b*ggered it completely when the boat trailer ring jammed while reversing but that is another story I am getting one of these http://www.southdown4x4.co.uk/DetachableTowing.htm#tp110 with a slight mod to the design so it bolts into all six holes in the rear of the crossmember. I reckon that is about as solid as you will get without cutting the crossmember off and welding a proper one on which is a bit too drastic for a brand new 110