BogMonster

No it is the splines where the UJ's mate with the shaft going into the steering box, and at the top end, where they mate with the bottom of the steering column. Mine came loose on the 90, twice, at the bottom of the steering column. You can see the UJ's in the engine bay. To be honest if it is an internal box fault then I'd get a recon exchange one, most people who attempt DIY repair end up doing that anyway! An exchange unit is less than a couple of hundred I think so not the end of the world and likely to make a big difference to steering anyway.

Last night at the BogMonsterBunker : Nice shiny new 300Tdi just to prove they do (or at least did until very recently) still make them: Needs "a few things added" though

Yes - seem to recall on mine if you wash the screen with the lights on it would woosh the lights with half a gallon of water (most of which ended up on the windscreen...) then not do it for two windscreen wash, then do it on the fourth one and so on. As I said it wasted a huge amount of screen wash and was mostly ineffective at cleaning the lights so the fuse came out of mine v quick. The fuse for it is in the fuse box under the steering wheel, I seem to recall it is clear enough from the diagram which one it is.

Headlight washers squirting on every 3rd squirt of the windscreen washers. They are a waste of time anyway and I took the fuse out of mine as all they did was empty the tank in a third of the time! The washer pump for the lights is on a separate fuse so maybe the last owner got p*ssed off with them like me and took the fuse out!!

Open them up put black silicone sealant in the runners and all up the side, squidge them shut and wipe off the excess, then put a bead up between the two sections of glass where they overlap half way along. Job done In a 90 you can also take the windows out and fit the solid (non sliding) ones out of a windowed 90 HT. I am just about to find out whether a set of these will fit in the back of a 110SW so watch this space!

Thanks MOG. I am planning to probably take out the rear seats in my 110 to make more room for carrying stuff - I'm not fitting a roof rack on this one as I am sick of the effect it has on-road in both handling and drag/noise. I think I will probably go with the same setup as I had before - and may try and find some better 100mm drive units to fit inside the enclosures. Ta

Rear is better for climbing... Also depends on whether you approach something with a determination to get through it, in which case fit on the rear, or a requirement to chicken out and reverse, in which case put the new ones on the front and fit them the wrong way round to get maximum grip in reverse

Ah for a 2.25 naturally asthmatic. You'd never forget it was a diesel then

Cheers Yes please MOG if you could that would be great... The Pioneers are OK in that they (along with dumping the std LR front speakers for some half decent Kenwood ones) make a more "vehicle filling" sound rather than somebody muttering into the footwells, but they are pretty cheap and nasty speakers. Some better surface-mount ones would be good, same sort of size and type. But I suppose a small enclosure is never going to make a big sound

Welcome Have you checked the shaft from the bottom of the steering column to the box? These can come loose and the splines wear. There is usually a "clonk" in the steering if you rock the wheel from side to side with the engine off.

Digging this thread up again due to very shortly having a shiny new Defender which will need a better wireless fitted Any fresh thoughts on the matter before I order and fit a set of Pioneer TS-44's as in my photo above? Has anybody got a pic of the LR factory fit rear speakers fitted in a 110SW, we don't get the four speaker option here... Ta

Check the steering box is "centred" i.e. in the middle of its travel as it should be tight in that position but can be quite a bit of play off to each side. Don't overtighten the adjuster as apparently if you get carried away it can trash the innards of the box.

Metallic gold is probably the best colour for hiding day to day muck. Looks cr*p all the time whether clean or dirty, but I guess that is the price to pay

Seem to recall even putting an A bar on mine was a PITA due to the stupid crush cans you end up with the whole thing cock eyed and it takes ages to get it looking decent again. Maybe the ARB does away with these?

Safety Devices I think? Not 100% sure though...

and a stinky Td5 with lots of things to go wrong The "standard" spec SW we get for here has cloth seats and metallic but nothing else - no carpets because they always get wet and smell mouldy after a while, if you are using it as it was designed. Oh well, off to the garage, it is too nice today and I should be out in the RIB instead

6m a minute is about twice as fast as a standard Milemarker in low gear and for good control in heavy winching that sounds about right to me - it wouldn't suit the competition boys but it depends what you want.

MPB is closest... TJ101 gets a ruddy great slap around the face with a wet fish Nope, by the middle of next week I should have a wodge of cash, and with another wodge of cash, by about the end of the week I should have one of the very last brand new 300Tdi Defenders on the planet, a shiny new 2006 model year Tonga Green 110SW 300Tdi with Absolutely NO Electronics in it thank you very much (apart from the CD player I guess) :) Photos to follow

electronic diesel control basically a load of electronics that makes a Tdi go wrong like a Td5 fitted to the automatic vehicles - with fuelling mapped to give a bit more power compared to a proper Tdi

Taking the Milemarker, EGT gauge and various other bits and bobs off my 90, giving the winch mount a lick of paint and getting the 90 ready for a new owner. Guess what I will be getting next week :)

Is the bolt spacing actually different? I know the yokes are bigger but I am sure the old number propshaft is superceded to the new number (big UJ) one so that suggests it must be the same fitting as far as the bolts go...?

Found the old catalogue, but it will be no use to you, the pic of the bike rack is about an inch across and you can't really see it in the original pic never mind if I scanned it From what little I can make out from the pic it fits onto the top of a vertical plate that looks to bolt between the tow hitch and the bracket that the hitch mounts onto. Can you post a pic of what you have?

Don't bother making a full sized one unless you have a lot of time and patience, it is a PITA! I had a half hearted attempt a number of years ago and gave up. Brownchurch do good galvanised ones. For a working roof rack get a galvanised one and forget anything with a plastic coating as it will chip and be coming off in sheets after six months once there is water under it. Plastic coated ones may look good on the G4 Challenge but they are a waste of time in the real world IMHO.

I have old acc catalogues at work - I will try and remember to dig them out tomorrow...