BogMonster

Very common problem even on 300Tdi Defenders built up till recently for export markets, I have seen a 2003 with a cracked servo unit. Forget a genuine one get an OEM one (I think they are Lucas) from Bearmach or somewhere similar, its half the price or less.

Really depends on the conditions. I do mine about every 3 months i.e. once in between 6 monthly services. Leaving it for a year like LR now recommend is a dumb idea, though I think hidden somewhere in the service schedule it says to do stuff like that more often if used off road. A lot of the newer stuff has sealed prop UJs which can't be greased, these are "sealed for life" i.e. the life is somewhat shorter than you might expect from something that can be greased, hardly progress but it keeps the cost of servicing down to fleet users (a bit like doing away with 1st services), or maybe I am just a cynic A good tip for greasing propshafts is to get a grease gun flex connector and grind two flat faces on each side of the connector you put on the nipple, it makes it a lot easier to get in between the propshaft yokes

Check out the General Super All Grip available as a 7.50x16 crossply and a 7.50R16 radial, both tube type (becoming rare now! - but best for the original LR rims) but slightly different tread patterns. The SAG xply is IMHO the best 7.50-16 mud tyre available but is LOUD on the road Details http://www.4site4x4.co.uk/tyre-details.aspx?id=8 and http://www.4site4x4.co.uk/tyre-details.aspx?id=9

what type of freelander is the donor? if it is a 1.8 and has not exploded, the engine may be worth something to one of the many whose engines have exploded

Knowing what vehicle (200Tdi, 300Tdi, Td5, Discovery 3) would help the enquiry...

viscous is 32mm on any Tdi you don't need the fan though - I take mine off a lot of the time for on road driving, only required for slow off road use, or towing so if it is overheating then there is probably another problem e.g. a blocked radiator, a working fan might cover this problem up but it probably needs attention!

ah.... maybe the injectors are not all back in their original positions then! the injectors are "graded" and the correct grades have to be in the ECU for each injector position so the ECU can account for individual differences between injectors. I am not sure how much difference it makes in practice but it is worth making sure that it is right before you do anything else! You would need access to a Testbook or similar to check the values in the ECU and need to take off the rocker cover and read the grades off the top of each injector this is a five letter code like ECDMA or something, all 5 will be different

Welcome The ECU upgrades seem popular though I don't have any direct experience of them save for a quick drive in a 110 fitted with such an upgrade and it did make quite a difference

the fuel pump on a Td5 has no role at all in timing, it just provides fuel at 58psi all the time (or not!) timing is controlled directly by the ECU, the ECU triggers the solenoid inside each individual injector which is what causes the fuel to be injected if it really is a "timing" fault then either the cam chain is out of position (unlikely or probably impossible unless the engine has been dismantled), the ECU is buggered or the ECU is receiving an incorrect signal from the crank position sensor causing it to think the engine is in a different position to where it actually is - which means it is injecting fuel at the wrong moment The only other possibility is that the injectors have been taken out at some point and the correct procedure has not been followed for re-fitting the operating cam that pushes the individual injector plungers down to pressurise the internal fuel supply, it is not done the same way as you would check valve clearances (for example) - but is clearly described in the WSM

Stolen from RIBnet Missing the point a bit I think

interesting we had to change injector washers in one recently but the fault was not this but bad starting and intermittent engine cutting out suddenly, we changed all the injector sealing washers and it was fine.

the 2006 model ones didn't have anything except the green oval on the back However I have two Tdi badges for the wings and a Defender 110 badge for the back to rectify the oversight, the only problem being keeping it clean for long enough to stick the badges on as I have to drive off the end of the road to get home these days and the track is getting a bit boggy Not sure whether I am going to get a set of County stripes for it or not, I used to like them but I think they are starting to look a bit 90s

on the gearbox there is a screw in switch with 2 spade connectors try adjusting it but it will probably need a new switch, they do break adjust it too far in and the vehicle will jump out of reverse with possible gear damage

never heard of over pressure, more often under pressure due to the pump having conked out! it might be possible but I have never seen one with this problem Switch the ignition on the pump should run for about 30 sec then stop, it should be running all the time when the engine is running though

Sounds good to me Only thing I have heard about twin shocks is they shake all yer fillings out but....

Too shiny

could be an injector then most common fault causing a misfire is the wiring harness feeding the injectors and it is only about 40 quid against a few hundred for an injector. Usually though, it is fine when the engine is cold but the misfire gradually appears as it warms up and is bucking like a b*****d by the time it gets really hot. It also doesn't usually cause any smoke. I think what you need to do is get it plugged in to a computer, the "cylinder balancing" on the Testbook will tell you which cylinder is causing the problem and it can then be narrowed down from that. If it is not the harness, then other possibilities include a broken injector spring (seen a couple) or a defective coil in the injector solenoid (also seen a couple). The coil will show up on the "injector click test" you can do with Testbook (fires each solenoid in turn to check it is working) and the spring will be pretty obvious. They are the most common failures but not the only ones - hard to say any more than that without seeing the vehicle. Either of the latter faults will need a new injector and that will in turn need a Testbook to programme in the injector code to the ECU so it is not a DIY proposition I'm afraid.

Quite right I have tried loads of Td5s and I hated all of them It is fair to say that you get good ones and bad ones, good ones can go for years with no bother, bad ones you should sell at the earliest opportunity before it empties your wallet... I would take Tony's advice and get a late Tdi Defender, if it doesn't go fast enough for you then you can swap in a new 2.8 TGV which has more power and torque than the new 2.4 Ford engine but can still be fixed with a hammer and some baler twine, plus there will be enough change left over to add other bits as required Putting electricity in a vehicle that leaks was always going to end in tears

EGR valve jammed open? does it misfire at all or just loads of smoke? if an injector is dead it will misfire and the engine will hop around at idle with a very definite "Winget cement mixer" noise

Ahem I can say that it won't break with a bit over 2 tons of gravel in it but not recommended really

It may be the calibration of the window, though I have seen others do that as well so it might be just a "Freelander thing"

You won't find a 45A alternator on any Discovery AFAIK - most are 100A to cope with aircon. So I doubt any Disco has the plug type alternator. The "universal" alternators are usually a 65A stud and ring alt, supplied with a short fly lead a few inches long, this has ring terminals on one end to go to the alt, and a socket on the other to take the multiplug on the vehicle harness. The plugs are a bit of a liability with corrosion in the spade connectors, better to cut them off and wire direct to the alt IMHO.

One wonders how much of the worlds natural resources have been consumed making emissions control equipment for cars that either doesn't work or gets thrown away before it breaks anyway

I seem to recall it was 165bhp for the 3.5L and it dropped to about 150 when a catalyst was added. And after 16 years of neglect, probably to about 50

300Tdi Discoverys went through a period when new when the damn things always used to break all the time, it is a rubbish bit of plastic which snaps and then doesn't work. Not hard to change at all. Disconnect the horn before you try and take the horn button out unless you want dirty looks from neighbours