BogMonster

What on earth were you doing with a Decarbon shock in the shower? sounds painful anyway

Not with a T4 AFAIK, but some of the aftermarket systems might be more forgiving. Send me the part no. on the ECU and I'll find out what it's for...

Why not drain the t/box oil take the cover plate off and see what is going on inside when there is no drive? The centre diff can be changed in situ but beyond that, NAFC how to do it... Centre diff or maybe splines stripped on one of the output shafts would be my guess. How about putting it in difflock and jacking up each end in turn, see if there is no drive to one end with a wheel jacked up?

Eurgh, somebody has let that dreadful chap with oily fingernails and leaf springs in again

I work on the principle that if I am going to belt something on a rock (which I try and avoid anyway) I'd rather it was attached to the chassis than being attached to something expensive and ultimately breakable (steering box/swivel housing). It seems to be that you could (I don't know if people actually do) break either end if you strengthen the bar to the point of no longer being the weakest link. I accept though, that you can get better clearance with not having a guard on the front, quite a lot better in some cases. Also with an angled guard if you hit something like a bank quite hard, or even bury the front end in a swamp, it tends to shove the front up and you slow down but keep going, where a standard tubular Land Rover steering protector will dig in and you'll stop pretty quick. I guess the same thing would happen with a bare draglink, except you'd bend it if it was just a normal one. I just don't like the thought of having expensive fragile sticky out bits, I'd rather have a cheap expendable and reasonably robust sticky out bit covering them up

I seem to recall Nige (HfH) saying that Matt doesn't do those any more, he has an MJL one on the Eales

Connect to a T4 or something that will talk to it and read off injector grades programmed into old ECU Ignition off and leave it for 20 sec or so for the power to drop out Pull out red & black plugs Pull out old ECU (a couple of bolts) & fit new one Put in red & black plugs Ignition on Use T4 to stuff injector grades into new ECU, and learn the alarm security code Approx 10 minute job unless it insists on downloading a new "tune" to the ECU which will take a bit longer 30 min tops though

Just checked and NNN500020 is indeed a Defender manual ECU for 2A> vin numbers (vehicles with new type dash) so if that is you, then you are OK If you get it, I think it should also say "LD MAN" on it which is Defender manual (LD is the model bit of the VIN number i.e. SALLDblah

I guess using it on the road like that would probably be asking for trouble from the law? It could be modified as a ramblerplough though - same principle as a snowplough but picks up ramblers and deposits them harmlessly in a hedge if you encounter any while laning Jed is that one of yours something you built yourself?

The holed ones don't hang up, at least not in my experience, though I suppose you could hook a pointy rock through a hole but I doubt it would be a big problem. You do get lots of muddy sausages when you hit something soft though I like the holed ones because if you do get a buildup of cack behind the blade you can stick a pressure washer through the holes to blast it out, which you obviously can't do if there are no holes I've got a Rebel one on mine, picked up a few scars but I haven't bent it yet!

I use Monroe Adventurers on the 90 with standard springs and a bit of a lift using spacers, I think they are excellent and a good price too! I got mine from Bearmach but they are available from lots of places.

James That isn't a complete part number, but I think there is an NNN500020 which is a programmable type, will have a look in a little while and post up the answer. However you need to have the right sort for a Defender manual transmission, you can't even fit a Disco Td5 manual one to a Disco Td5 auto, it won't let you do it, as I tried to nick one out of a crashed vehicle for something once and it wouldn't work - same age vehicle just an auto instead of a manual.

I saw one a while back with a major fuel leak in this area and I seem to remember it was something to do with the fuel cooler which is a block with pipes coming out of it - a while ago now so I don't remember exactly.

That's a very neat design Steve, I do like that, a nice bit of Devon 4x4 handiwork, very well thought out But I have to say I think your anchor is 1) far too clean/shiny and 2) far too straight, I think you should lend it to me for a mild restyle What I was thinking for mine is something like that channel, snug fit around the KG, but with a hole for a pin drilled right through the channel and the anchor, sort of where the D44 logo is or maybe a bit closer to the middle of the anchor, and then a sawn off M10 bolt with an R clip on the end to go through the hole. Might also glue some rubber or something on the inside of the channel to stop it rattling on the road. But I might try and do something halfway between the two, perhaps the bit of rod welded on the anchor so you would "hang" the anchor on the back door mount to take the weight, and then stick the pin through (as on my original idea) to secure it. What thickness metal is the channel that the anchor sits in? BTW I definitely haven't burned 3 CDs off this afternoon and definitely won't be posting them to you in the next couple of days, they definitely won't head north on Thursday's plane (actually being the RAF, that bit is probably correct ) and you definitely shouldn't get them some time next week

Thanks Mo, that's what I needed to know Now all I gotta do is find a 20 tooth gear I feel the urge coming on to liberate a part off one of the scrap t-boxes at work I guess Microclot is wrong (again) when it says the later ones don't have them

I think it must be. Will have to pull it out for a look at some stage, not getting under there this afternoon as it has been raining cats, dogs, elephants, whales and wildebeest so it's not worth an earful of muddy water for a look!

Hmmm I just found that out too Back to Square One

Thanks Ralph That's the problem - I can't find anything on drive gears either! Nowt in RAVE about it apart from the LT230Q overhaul manual which shows a picture of a spiral gear similar to in the older T-boxes which suggests that the system for driving the sender is probably the same. I suspect the gears are in fact the same and that Microcat is just wrong when it says they only fit earlier vehicles, but not sure. The LT230 transfer box is basically the same thing, albeit an LT230Q rather than LT230T. Allegedly the Q stands for Quiet, which mine isn't should be called an LT230HFGNILR (horrible F grindy noises in low range)! I don't think there is any ECU programming, as on the 300Tdi's there is no ECU to program - just the speedo head which allegedly is the same on all vehicles. I think on a Td5 the speedo is driven by the engine ECU, but it must sense the speed signal directly off the sender on mine because there is no other hidden electrickery on the new 300Tdis, just a Td5 instrument pack. I think somebody at work put a Td5 age transfer box (which would have had the leccy sender unit) in an older vehicle a while back, so I must find out if they remember changing anything in the speedo drive gears. If that fails then I will pull it out and have a look, and hopefully there won't be a "sproinnggggg" of bits falling into the bottom of the t-box

Ah, it is also on SP1 in the start menu - never even thought of Windoze having something useful built in Ta - I'll have a play later cleaning 10 days worth of dust from Christmas holiday out of the 90 at the moment Ever seen brown Techno cloth trim?

Since fitting the 265/75R16s the speedo on my 90 under-reads a bit (it was fitted with 205s when brand new, though the first owner swapped those immediately). So I figured if I fit the speedo drive from a 110 shod with 7.50s, it should be OK, easy enough, off to look for part numbers. ...But... No such thing, according to Microtwat Micromuppet suggests that: - All sender units on all 300Tdi and Td5 vehicles are YBE100530 irrespective of tyre size. - The gears, which were selectable to give speedo calibration on older vehicles with mechanically driven speedos, don't fit the newer vehicles (according to Microclot these gears only do up to WA159806 which is the beginning of the Td5s, so wouldn't suit mine which is a 4A vin number). On older vehicles FRC3312 is a 22 tooth gear for 205R16 tyres and FRC3310 is a 20 tooth gear, which presumably does 7.50R16s, though it doesn't say that. There is also an FRC3311, 21 teeth, not clear what that is supposed to do (90s except a 50LE, don't understand the difference though). No gears at all listed for an XA > vin number, which is what I need - The speedo head is the same on all vehicles, allegedly So what changes the calibration from 205R16s to 7.50R16s??? The speedo on new 110s is accurate with 7.50s on, doesn't under-read like mine, so there must be something different somewhere but the ever useful Micro(&**^%&^(&^%*%^*&^ doesn't seem to give any hints I have never had cause to pull out one of the new type electronic speedo drives and see what is inside, has anybody actually done this, or does anybody know what needs to be changed to correct the speedo please? Or has anybody got a parts catalogue which is actually right maybe the old EPC (don't have that) -- I expect it needs the same sort of gears but not sure..... Ta

Aha! I have SP2 on the laptop - I shall investigate! Ta

Does anybody know of a decent video editor/converter, preferably free Main requirement is to be able to convert stupid Olympus .mov files (Quicktime format) into something sensible like .wmv or .mpg which anything apart from QT can read I had a look on Google but most of the ones I have seen seem to be trial versions that expire and also are silly sized downloads for dialup Ta

Thanks for the offer but I am probably further from the UK than you are ATM Interesting idea though - will have a think about that - ta Does anybody have any pics of the channel type mounting I described above please?

Yes I think so, a sort of spike thing through the bottom? (ouch!) Unfortunately the ends of mine are boxed in and so I would have to cut them out, which would bugger up the passivating

I was pondering recently, how best to store the KittyGripper ground anchor so that it is quick to remove and use. At the moment, I just lash it to the side of the roof rack, using foam pipe lagging round the roof rack to stop it rattling too much, and a couple of strong bungee cords wound around the KG and the roof rack frame in a few different places. It's secure enough, but a bit of a fiddle to undo quickly and then do up again. So, what could be used instead? Looking at some mountings on the front of challenge trucks that I have seen pictured in the mags, these seem to be mostly along the lines of a bit of U-section channel just larger than the anchor arm, so the anchor sits snugly inside the channel and is held in by some means, maybe a bracket over the anchor or a pin through a hole drilled in the anchor. Does anybody have a close up pic of one (or more) of these brackets please? Does anybody have any better ideas? I am thinking I could make up 2 brackets along the same lines, one to be bolted to the roof rack, and another welded to a back plate with suitable holes in it to fit onto the spare wheel carrier on the back door, this would then hold the anchor vertically on the back door when no extra spare wheel was fitted (my spare normally lives on the roof rack), which I think would make it really easy to pop off and use. Any thoughts, or pictures? Thanks Stephen