BogMonster

XO must be the version before XP? I had a thread on here a few months back about DVD software, if you search you might find it somewhere.

Oh yeah I forgot about you doing that, sorry Erm hmmm [Deploy fly to dip into ointment] obvious flaw in this argument though in that you have a bladdered centre diff Can't immediately think what else it could be though. Don't suppose the solid cross shaft thing might have broken? I don't even know what the solid ones look like...? not much else to go wrong in a centre diff unless maybe the bolts have come loose and it's fallen to bits inside the transfer box or something

I think if the pins in the centre diff break, it stays jammed in difflock (or at least doesn't "diff" as it should) so maybe that is what has happened. I remember a few years back some folks here used to go through centre diff bits like Smarties by jumping the vehicles and stuff like that, and IIRC it was always the pins in the diff that broke. I remember the owner of one such vehicle later in its life telling me it was on its ninth transfer box...

I know somebody that used to run one on a 300Tdi 130 and I think he reckoned he had never had to change the air filter element. Not sure if he has one on his current Td5 130 but I think so. I think the one he used was off a tractor of some sort? no idea what type though, I seem to think it was an oil-bath one but I might well have imagined that

Yeeeeees, no oil would be bad if there was nothing at all it is probably completely F'ed therefore remove halfshafts and take it out as previously described. I expect it will be a bit blue around the edges No point in removing the flange from the pinion if you have a complete replacement diff as if it has been running with no oil at all the chances are it'll be completely shot and fit only for a doorstop!

If it has alloy wheels fitted you won't get the halfshafts out without removing the wheels but there is no reason why you can't jack up one side, remove wheel, remove the drive member and take the halfshaft right out, and refit wheel with a couple of nuts, then let it down and do the other side. If you have steel wheels you can take the shafts out, on a Discovery the rear shafts are most likely to be one-piece with the integral drive member so there will be no little black plastic hub cap, just take out the 5 drive member bolts and it'll come out, no need to remove wheels. You won't get the diff out without the halfshafts coming out though, not possible! If the diff pinion won't turn with the propshaft off and a wheel jacked up then you might well have a problem - most likely the pinion bearing will have collapsed or seized, but that usually makes pretty horrible noises before getting bad enough to drag wheels! If you get underneath and grab hold of the pinion can you move it up and down or side to side to see if there is any play in the bearings? Just out of interest what happens if you jack up only one side (with the halfshafts still in) and try and turn the wheel with the propshaft disconnected - does the diff pinion turn then? If you can't turn the wheel there is definitely a problem within, with either the pinion bearings or the main bearings that support the crownwheel and diff centre. Was there oil in the diff, did you drain it yet, and if you did what came out - clean oil, gungy filth, metal swarf, teeth ... ? all clues as to possible problems

It should come out like that, if you have taken the 2 halfshafts out of each side? It is probably in with RTV or similar gasket sealant so it may just be "stuck" to the axle casing, you may need to prise it off with a big screwdriver but you don't need to do anything else to the diff itself - it will come out as a unit complete with that flange attached. You say it "drags the rear end" are you sure the handbrake isn't just seized on?? If you try to drive it with the rear propshaft off (as in your photo) can you move it then? If so, it will be the handbrake seized on. I'd be surprised if the rear diff has seized completely, I can't recall ever hearing of a total diff seizure happening before, or if it does it is usually accompanied by a big bang, a hole in the back of the axle casing and a lot of gears making a bid for freedom The reason I mention the handbrake is that I once got a call out to somebody with a "broken rear diff" parked on top of a mountain, and when we got there we found the handbrake was seized on and so it would drag the rear wheels when you tried to drive it forwards, because the jammed handbrake was forcing all the power through the centre diff to the front wheels. Turned out to be frozen on, and we "fixed" it by engaging 1st low range difflock giving it about 4000rpm and dropping the clutch, one almighty bang later and we were on our way with hindsight it was probably quite lucky not to break anything but it was a horizontal blizzard at the time and I wasn't messing around, plus it was one of our own vehicles anyway. I don't recommend you try the technique, but it's worth investigating the handbrake to rule it out.

Oh yes.... I would have thought it would work in a 1.1 port but anyway, I think I shall stamp on it and go back to using the old one. Thanks for the advice

Aha, that may be the answer then maybe the later ones have all USB 2 but the older ones like this are some of each How do you tell them apart? (apart from plugging in a USB 2 thing and finding it don't work...)

Nah [Coat on] What you want is a hydraulic fan See you all later, much later

Effn thing is really getting on my wick now Front USB ports work fine with my old memory stick (also a 512MB "Crucial Gizmo", possibly the most irritating name in the entire universe wicked innit?) but not the new one I must admit I don't know if the old one is USB1.1 or 2.0, that might be the answer, though I am virtually certain I have used the new stick (which is definitely 2.0 as it says it on the outside) in the front ports before. But then I have 3 x Dell computers between work and home so maybe not works OK on the other 2 but they are both newer than this PC. I would have thought a USB 2.0 device would just slow down to talk to a 1.1 port though? Don't know much about it except it is supposed to plug in and work and not cause bother and mutter mutter me pencil and paper never used to break bring back 5.25 inch floppy disks etc etc

thanks can't see anything though - it doesn't appear in the Device Manager (apart from as Unknown Device & I have already tried deleting that) the odd thing is 1) it works in the back 2) I don't think it is a power problem (which a Google search suggested is common on front ports for some reason) as the externally powered ZIP drive also doesn't work in the front ports and that shouldn't need any power from the port - but gives the same error (and also works in the back ports) 3) the F thing worked fine last week and I have been using it with one or other of my Gizmos for about a year now

Got a problem with my computer at work, just wondering if anybody has any "oh yes mine did that and I hit it with hammer no 13 of my collection which fixed it" advice before I summon an expert costing ££! I have suddenly started having problems in the last couple of days using my memory stick which won't work in either of the USB ports on the front of my PC - says "One of the USB devices attached to this computer has malfunctioned and Windows does not recognise it". I thought it was the Gizmo gone phut but then I discovered the Gizmo works in other computers. So a bit of fiddling and I now see that it works fine in the 2 USB ports on the back but nothing works in the 2 USB ports on the front (also tried Zip drive etc) I thought all the USB ports in a PC were covered by the same controller hub doofer wotsit thingy (tech term)? it seems V odd that both ports on the front blew up simultaneously and yet both on the back still work The computer is a Dell Dimension 4550 if that makes any difference, running XP SP1. any thoughts as to what to check/hit please? I can use the thing plugged into the back but it is a PITFA as both of the ports on the back are already in use (Zip/printer) so I need to unplug one of those and anyway it is a pain to get at them. ta Stephen

I found a better solution Replaced Td4 with 4.0 V8 - toasty toes in no time at all, warms up much quicker than a Td4 even one with a pre-heater

Have you no shame? That's a H H H HHH Husky on display

As LR90 says check the drain and pull out fuses till it disappears then you know it is on that circuit and can look further. Alarm should not drain any significant amount. I saw a similar problem in a Disco a few years ago, battery went flat every 2 days regular as clockwork, turned out to be a shorted wire behind the radio, lucky there wasn't a fire!!

A couple more I missed the first time round You know you're stuck when you are in the cab with a spade looking for the controls And the carpets were a bit grubby afterwards

You're welcome wibble

I think if they drain a 300 at work they usually put a pipe right down into the rad through the bung on top, and syphon it out, but I don't know how much is left in when you drain down to the bottom of the rad

I've got four coils on mine naaa naa na naaa naaah

Tony I may have said before, but we had a 110 at work a while back with a "tight spot" (loss of self centreing coming out of corner) and it was a U/S steering damper.

This is probably a dumb question, but if you don't know what it does how do you know it's knackered? i.e. if everything works what is the problem? OK, a bit of research in RAVE shows that it is page 100 you want, it is connector C0063 which is "Relay - Main". It appears several times in the electrical circuit diagrams if you do a search for "0063" and it also comes up on page 42 of the electrical library indicating it is something to do with feeding the aircon clutch and cooling fans. HTH

In my copy of RAVE it says the fuel pump relay on a Td5 is C0730 and if you look up C0730 in the connector views in the electrical library it says it is in the fuse box in the facia (i.e. the one in front of the gear lever) From left to right the photo (p246 in the electrical library) shows Yellow relay Yellow relay Yellow relay Brown relay Green relay - the fuel pump relay Are you trying to find the fuel pump relay, or trying to figure out what the one under the seat does?

Cool B) I have just figured out how to make my first million B) Page 81 of the Feb 06 issue of LRE, there is (yes really) spray on mud! [break out calculator] 75cc of this costs £7.95 how many times does 75cc go into about 400 cubic metres erm according to my calculations that should be 5333333 bottles of spray on goo @ £7.95 = £42,400,000 Anybody want a new supercharged RR Sport? - they're on the house

Nice, though I am not that convinced about the colour The lift pump looks like a standard 300Tdi one to me, so Ralph's number is right