BogMonster

The different grades are cold/hot effective viscosities, so it will be 80 when cold and 90 when hot, a bit like 15/40 engine oil, it isn't as thick when cold as a straight grade like straight 30 would be, if that makes sense! 80/90 will be fine, that's what my vehicles have always used, Castrol EPX80W90.

The white ones are a different part number and are supposed to be a better material to stop the splitting. I must admit my first thought was that it looked like the same thing but with no black stuff poured in the plastic vat, but I have seen a number of black ones that are split, and never seen a white one split so maybe the seam design is better or they used stronger Superglue or something. As already said, the seam that runs around the waistline of the tank splits on the black ones, lots of coolant disappears, blooey new engine required pretty quick if the driver isn't watching the temp gauge I have seen one such case where the driver wasn't watching the gauge and cooked it good and proper, the vehicle turned up on a tow rope and when started sounded like a stonecrusher trying to digest a Sherman tank. Bonnet up, filled it up with coolant, somebody started it up again with the cap off the header tank "to see if it was gassing". It is the only time I have seen anything pump all the coolant out of the filler in about 2 or 3 seconds, quite impressive and caused a bit of a scattering match among the assembled spectators (some of who got a bit wet IIRC). But I also know of a lot of black tanks still running around, out of all the 300Tdi Defenders on our company fleet I don't think any of them have needed new header tanks and only 1 will be new enough to have a white one. The other thing that is a weakness on Tdi engines is the stupid little 3 way "Y piece" (I think it is called an "ejector pump" though I have absolutely no idea why) in the small coolant pipe on the RH side of the engine, those can split with similar results. Worth changing if in any doubt as it costs nothing and can cost you dear if it goes.

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Don't know and it isn't really possible to measure inside the fan hub with any accuracy to get the pitch from that, I don't think there is room to get the external calipers onto the front of the engine (too close to rad) and anyway it would be hard to see to get it accurate. However I would say it is UNF rather than UNC if those are the two choices, as its quite fine for the diameter, I would have said UNF or fine metric but it may be a non standard thread pitch nas90 certainly my 1996 Disco used the same RH thread viccy unit and it was a serpentine 3.9 - you're probably right and I suspect the early V8s used a 32mm spanner size LH threaded hub same as a Tdi is. Hole in 300 fan is ~67mm, can't get the internal calipers into it but that is measured with the external ones and within about 0.5mm

OK here you are From left to right: 200Tdi ETC7238, 300Tdi ERR2266 with fan, 3.9/4.0 V8 ERR4996 Measurements 200Tdi one Overall diameter of unit is 152mm Hole spacing between 2 opposite holes 99.32mm 32mm spanner size LH thread Internal diameter of female thread on unit 22.41mm 300Tdi one O D 166mm Hole spacing 82.66mm 32mm spanner LH thead Internal dia 22.44mm 4.0 V8 one O D 166mm Hole spacing 82.3mm 36mm spanner RH thread Internal dia 28.42mm

Si, When I go out later I'll check but I'm 99% sure the fan on the 4.0 Thor engine turns the opposite way to a 300Tdi one because of the belt/pulley arrangement, hence the RH thread to stop it spinning off. So I assume the 3.9 in my old Disco (which also used the ERR4996 viscous unit) and 3.9 RR (which I know uses the same p/no as well, at least some of them do) also had the same belt layout to give a fan spinning in that direction. I also remember being able to wind up somebody at work who b****red up a fan spanner trying to get one off my old Discovery because he assumed it was a LH thread same as a Tdi (there aren't many V8s here) - took a bit of getting off afterwards too Hadn't thought about all the VMs, 2.8 BMWs etc, but I think a lot of those in the Microcat listings are hot climate spec ones (hence the "(-GB)" which means all except GB) and a lot of the numbers are duplicated as well. On top of that I think if you check measurements you would find the thread will be the same between a lot of them - maybe the on/off temps are different or something? I know that I fitted a V8 one to my old 200Tdi Discovery, though I can't remember which V8 one it was exactly. I still think the 3 to go for at the beginning would be the 3 I listed above, 200Tdi (which will fit some V8s), 300Tdi and 36mm V8. If you get it working I may well be interested - I am on my 3rd viscous unit in the 90 (all under warranty ) and I noticed when I took the fan off the other day that the bearing in that is on its way out already - only been on there about 4 months I think

No! I have seen one that was in a shoot up here about 6 or 7 years ago and 9mm pistol rounds go right through from side to side so you can forget stopping anything bigger!

Never heard of it on RHD ones, never seen the problem here. Is it on newish vehicles where the fault is probably from the factory, or repeatedly occurring on the same vehicle? I assume you mean the big nut on the end of the arm, rather than a bolt - the only explanation I can think of if it is a repeated fault is that the Nyloc locking bit in the nut is knackered, maybe a bad batch of nuts on sale at the dealer or something?

Woops Sorry I forgot to go and look at a 200 one today (but I think you have a 200Tdi SV don't you?) but can confirm from what I have here that the 4 bolts holding the fan onto the viscous are the same spacing on a 300 one (as per pictures posted by Tony - the ERR2266 viscous unit), as on a later 3.9/4.0 V8 (ERR4996 viscous unit). The difference between them is that the 300 uses a 32mm spanner size LH thread onto the engine, and the V8 uses a 36mm RH thread. The 200 viscous unit (ETC7238) I think is the same thread onto the engine as a 300 (32mm LH) but different bolt spacings onto the viscous, and this also fits earlier 3.5 V8s IIRC. Let me know if you still need one measured. I think the 200 viscous unit also does earlier ones like TD's, so there appear to be 3 basic types if you ignore the very latest stuff like a Td5 (which is different again, the fan/viscous can only be purchased as a complete assembly on those for £stupid) and probably also Discovery 3s and things.

Cheques are in the post chaps

Why not fit a 300 header tank? I can't see why it should do that, it would suggest there is something wrong. My 300 doesn't lose any coolant, unlike the V8 which steadfastly refuses to be topped up to the mark, it will drink a bit to get it down to about 1/2" below the mark and then it is happy, never moves below that could be something to do with a lower pressure cap on the older header tanks...? no idea, just a thought

To be honest Steve I rarely go through very deep water so it isn't really worth it. The main reason I don't go through deep water, is that most places you find it, under the water it looks a bit like this (only without the digger, obviously) which makes it an unwise thing to do I don't have on board air anyway, though I may do at some point if I ever get around to fitting lockers. Anyway if you did what you suggest while wading somebody may think I had broken wind if lots of bubbles started rising

Si Another thing to bear in mind is that some are LH thread hubs (300Tdi for example) and others are RH thread (some V8s) don't know what the thread is though Will measure later when I get back from the airport, still on my first coffee at the moment then have to go!

Very neat idea I am pretty sure the 300Tdi and 200Tdi ones are a different bolt spacing for the 4 bolts, both are 32mm spanner size but I am fairly sure the viscous units aren't interchangeable. But I know an older V8 one fits a 200Tdi because I put one on my old 200Tdi Discovery when I had it. Later 3.9 V8s are different again with a 36mm spanner to fit the thread. I am busy tomorrow morning but I should be able to lay my hands on a 200Tdi and 300Tdi one at work tomorrow afternoon and I have a dud 3.9/4.0 V8 one in my garage so that will be the main 3 types there are, so if nobody else comes along in the meantime, I will measure them and post the measurements tomorrow afternoon/evening

Probably only does about 2500rpm flat out though, if anything like a traaaaaaactor (our Case 685 which is about 4 litres does about 2200rpm IIRC), so the overall air consumption is probably similar to a 2.5 litre Land Rover diesel. It seems to work well anyway.

Steve I think on newer vehicles like yours and mine the axle breathers are some sort of push fit connector, not a threaded banjo like on older ones. I am going to extend my rear diff one up to where the front ones are behind the engine, I figure if I get them underwater for any length of time I've F'ed up big time and thus I'm probably going to be changing all the oils anyway Your Td5 will have the EGR modulator and if fitted the turbo modulator breathing into the main air filter box so no need to worry about that. I think your next thing to worry about is the underseat box - see my pictures of Xmas wading for why Fuel pump is submerged in diesel in the tank so you can forget about that, it will probably pump water just as well as diesel if you really screw up I think the info you have is probably aimed at 300Tdi where the injector pump can have a breather fitted as can the timing case.

Dunno about airflow Doesn't seem to slow him down though

Ignore anybody who says "Oh yeah that water is only 2 inches deep you just can't see the bottom cos its a bit muddy"

£150 for a new diff? More like £1050 I think you'll find

Not very often at all IMHO. I know of a couple here where the stop solenoid thing has broken and jammed up the pump so it either wouldn't stop or wouldn't start, and perhaps a couple of others where the pumps have just expired for no particular reason (fuelling all to cock, impossible starting etc), but it certainly isn't a common problem.

I don't, but a Metro one certainly fits older 300Tdis because I know somebody who has one. I guess there is a good chance a 214 wheel will be the same if it is a similar age of car to the Metro.

OK, I just caught up with the guy I know here who has one on a 130 The precleaner he uses on his current Td5, on a Safari snorkel, is off a JCB 3CX, just the right size for the Safari and only about 50% bigger than a normal mushroom snorkel top so it doesn't look like some alien spaceship just landed on your snorkel Judging by the amount of crud in it, it works quite well it spins the muck out into a collection bowl which you empty every so often Don't know how big an engine a 3CX has in it but I guess bigger than a Td5 probably so capacity shouldn't be a problem.

My my I see AutoCAD has competition

Talk to white90 on here, he found a cheap source IIRC

All Td5s in anything do, even later ones, whatever Land Rover say about the fault only affecting early vehicles. Usually only need to change the injector harness inside the engine which is about £40 plus labour, I have seen plenty as well!