BogMonster

Yes I think the MM might have made heavy weather of it James It shows what treacherous stuff peat is to drive on, the ground on the run up to where he bogged really looked not much different to many of my normal photos but the ruts tell the story of what is six inches below the surface You always have to bear in mind that there is an evil black stinking monster lurking down there and if you open up the ground for a look it will eat you!

Could be the lift pump, no idea what arrangement a Wolf has but I assume still a lift pump on the engine which sucks the fuel up from the tank(s) if it is a 300Tdi engine. Or it could be a hole in a fuel pipe, bad connection in the fuel system, or a dodgy tank pickup, any one of which would let air in. If you loosen the bleed screw on the top of the filter housing and pump the lever on the lift pump do you get fuel coming out? The fact that the filter was only half full of fuel suggests that it is either the pump or you are getting air into the system somewhere. I did see a 200Tdi Discovery with a similar problem a few years ago, the pipes coming out of the top of the tank pickup had corroded through and a tiny pinhole was letting air in to the system, symptoms much as yours. Does the same thing happen with both tanks? If it does, then I'd guess the lift pump is kaput but you should be able to test it as above. No, if the sedimentor is the same as mine it should have 2 large O rings (there may be a third one on the bolt, don't know). It breaks down into 3 sections, the top (which stays on the vehicle) the upper half, and the lower half. There is an o-ring between the top and the upper half, and another between the upper half and the lower half.

The guy who planted it told me the Hitachi was about 30 tons Somebody said the little Halla that dug it out was 13 tons Mo the diggers are just used in the general construction industry, building roads, that sort of stuff. Not many people still burn peat here but for anybody that does, I can vouch for the quality of that bog being excellent - where it got stuck was actually while traversing one of the old (now disused) peat bogs where they used to cut peat for fuel. The bloke who used to cut his peat a little further up the valley turned up at one point and said that it used to be 18 feet deep in his bog, but I don't think that was what they wanted to hear right at that point The big digger (which I think is the biggest in the Islands) was on its way to shift a 20 foot ISO container. And - well as they say a short cut is the longest distance between 2 points The little one was just the nearest one that could be blagged at short notice to deal with the situation! It is also a good illustration of why tall narrow tyres that dig down to something hard aren't a great deal of use around these parts

A bit OT in that it has nowt to do with Land Rovers, but today saw me add some good photos to my collection so I thought I'd post them Crossing a valley close to town this morning to do a 5 minute job, a rather large Hitachi hit a bit of a soft spot Really quite deep now this would normally be quite a good photo for the collection but things were to get worse yet! First attempt to free it using a Cat D5 which just buried it a bit further - the problem being that it was sooo soft that every movement made the Hitachi sink a bit more Having decided that the only way was to dig to hard ground a second (lighter!) digger was commandeered and started to dig the Hitachi out but had some problems of its own and needed a tug from the D5 Trenching towards hard(er) ground.... By this time the entire machine except for the arm was below ground level and there were some major problems with slop getting into both the cab and the engine compartment and while it had the awesome power to pull itself forwards, rather a lot of goo was starting to build up in front! The cab was half full of semi liquid peat at one point.... Gonna be a while before this grasses over again Eventually when slightly harder ground was reached, using the D5 as an anchor point and digging its own (huge) bucket right into the ground to haul itself forward and lift, the Hitachi started to get out And success Bit of cleaning for somebody to do now though; 3 diggers and a bulldozer to wash not to mention a few new windows to make 9 hours from start to finish!

Your speedo will over-read by about 25% with 205s (standard over-read plus the error introduced by the tyres)

I'm surprised it has 2 - but I've never seen one so I can't say! BTW the Td5 and Tdi fuel filters are actually the same physical fitment, just that the Td5 filter has a hole for the water sensor and the Tdi one has the water drain. The fitting onto the filter head is the same thread and they are interchangeable. Ben I would do the rear one first (whether it is a 2nd filter or a sedimentor) start the engine and let it bleed, then stop it, do the one in the engine bay, and then start it again. You shouldn't need to manually bleed it at all then, at least you don't with a "normal" 300. You don't need to fill them with diesel, I never have, and have never needed to bleed it yet, just as long as you don't touch the throttle for that first 30 seconds or so after starting.

Yes, one of each of those numbers you list (I just popped by work to check and it is 1 x AAU9902 & 1 x AAU9903 for the big O ring seals). Yes the other number is correct too, old Series 3 numbers were 6 digits no letters, so I guess it fits something old and rattly as well

No you won't need to, I just suggested that because if you later break it off you'll probably need to take the whole thing off again to drill out the broken end and replace it. Personally if I clean one out I always just do it as I described, to make sure it is properly clean, and forget about the drain bung! If there is any amount of semi solid crud in there it won't come out through the tiny little drain bung anyway, so it is a bit of a waste of time really - it's only any use if all you are trying to drain out is water.

Sorry, from here looks like they may be AAU9902 & AAU9903 for the seals

In theory you just need to undo the drain bung in the bottom and drain any water and goo out. In practice it is much better to do it properly. Take the bolt out (middle of the top, runs down through the thing holding it all together) and the thing will come apart into 4 bits; the bit still attached to the vehicle, an upper section, a lower section and a cone thingy inside. There are O ring seals between the sections which you can probably re-use but if not IIRC they are something like AAU9901 and AAU9902 for replacements, probably worth changing if they have never been done. Clean the whole lot out with petrol or something, stick the seals back in and put it all back together. While you have got it apart you might want to try and get the plastic drain thing out of the bottom; it will probably be seized and break off and I am afraid I don't know the p/no for a replacement offhand but no doubt Ralph will be along with it shortly or if not I can probably find it on Monday. As long as you have not removed the fuel filter at the same time it should self-prime if you start the engine, start it but don't touch the throttle and the lift pump will draw fuel through, after a short time engine revs should drop a bit for maybe 10 seconds, then after about 30 sec total, it should pick up and idle normally again. If you touch the throttle during this time it will probably stall and need bleeding properly, but I have never had any trouble doing it this way.

Ha! No, not guilty

I'd be very surprised if the Wolf doesn't have a sedimentor before the filter like our 300Tdis have - it is usually in the rear RH wheelarch, where you would find the actual fuel filter on a Td5 vehicle.

Right, here we are: Firstly on dismantling the old snorkel I was a bit worried to see there had clearly been a leak where the snorkel goes through the wing which had let water in at some point; not that clear on the photo but the arrow shows where there are marks showing water ingress, a sort of spray pattern: On with the sealing up. The first two bits are easy: the water drain and the end cap. Water drain; take it off (it will be dirty, and you can't clean it properly with it still mounted in place so don't even bother trying as it will be half a job) clean up thoroughly, take out the rubber flap, fill with silicone sealant, put the rubber flap back in and seal it right up with silicone all over the top of it. On the air filter can, take off the drain valve, replace with the cap off a 400ml WD40 can (a good fit) and wrap up/seal with lots of insulating tape. Job done Now for the air filter can itself. Looks waterproof. Isn't. Apart from the bit that Tony identified, sealed as follows I also did a very thorough examination and found more leak points. The crimping on the end of the can looks good. But hold it up to a bright light (sorry, a cr&p photo but you can see the point...) and you see this: Daylight coming through round the end! Not good for waterproofing So I wrapped it up with tape on the outside and silicone sealant on the inside (which is bluddy difficult to do due to the bit in the middle being in the way) The finished fully waterproof can ready to go back on Now for an illustration of why the Safari design is much better than the Mantec/Land Rover/Rebel design. These are pictures of the air intake system assembled on the floor, up as far as the air filter can. The Safari is a one piece moulded snorkel body with a single hose from the bottom of the snorkel to the water drain; arrows indicate joints and therefore possible water entry points The Rebel snorkel that was on there uses the original Land Rover piping inside the wing which is a complete abortion of a design, stupid plastic bits joined together with no sealing. I know from past experience it is a pig of a thing to seal up properly. Again, arrows indicate the joints; the yellow arrows indicate the bits that are difficult to seal properly And the finished product To my surprise the end cap of the air filter can is completely airtight - no leaks at all. Clap a bit of rubber over the top of the snorkel and all the pipes collapse then after 3-4 sec the engine stalls, the only hissing you can hear is from the top of the snorkel, nothing else appears to be leaking at all. Just what I wanted to achieve ... now the next time I do this: I won't be having these: Sorted

Conversely the heater is sh&te without it! Mine had a faulty ambient temp sensor and it took about a week to warm up in about 2*C ambient temp (the faulty sensor wouldn't come on till about freezing). Anybody who thinks a Tdi takes a long time to warm up should try a Td4 with a malfunctioning pre heater...

Yes, it is quite a noisy thing and does produce steam on cold mornings. Not sure what you mean by a scavenging sound but they sound a bit like a pressure jet kero-fired central heating burner, because that's basically what they are!

Like it... only just noticed that (probably been there for months... )

Tony I intend to take pictures of the whole intake system assembled out of the vehicle using both old and new snorkels, to show the pros and cons of each, plus all the potential water ingress points identified, and post on here. It might be a useful thing to put in the tech archive once the thread has run its course, many on here will already know most of the information but it may be useful to folks looking at installing a snorkel for the first time. Will - I'll take your word for the strength! I hope I don't test it by putting the vehicle on its side, and I have no fear whatsoever of belting it on a tree Not sure I am going to put my hand over it, but I might find something else and try that. A rubber soled shoe or something would probably make a decent seal. Cue somebody producing a cartoon of BB with one leg jammed down a snorkel right up to the b*****s...

er having owned/used both (old 90 with side tank and new 90 with rear tank) I think you'll be sadly disappointed in that...

What I meant was that I have discovered some interesting leaks in the air filter can which nobody has mentioned so far Bit wary about the vacuum method on a plastic snorkel - a perfect vacuum is -15psi from atmospheric (though this isn't going to get to that), and that's a lot of pressure over the area of the big flat side of a Safari snorkel... lets say the bottom bit is 6 x 6 inches in area (if anything it's bigger) so that could be 500lb pressing in on the side of the snorkel body! I know there will be no leaks anywhere else anyway, because the snorkel is one piece, the pipes are a good fit and airtight, and I can guarantee nothing short of nuclear weapons will open the T-drain at the bottom ever again just as well as it is a PITA to get off

Nice Less bodywork to bend too

Just noticed you have more than everybody else have you Tony? ;)

Well.... I will definitely be posting some pictures when I have finished. All I will say at the moment is that all you folks who think you have waterproof air filter cans probably don't Tony (White90) was right, but that wasn't the only place in the air filter can where you can see daylight coming through if you take it off and have a really good look with a bright light. Rather a lot of silicone sealant and tape later, I think I probably have a waterproof one. And a slightly sealant encrusted T-shirt Haven't finished yet because I need to wait for some of the silicone sealant to dry on things like the bottom water drain before I put everything back in, otherwise I will end up covered in the bluddy stuff and also the holes I had to cut in the wing I have touched up with paint so the paint/lacquer doesn't start to peel off, so need to wait for that to dry. The interesting thing was once I had it all pulled to bits, firstly how much crud there was in the intake plumbing, and secondly where it had been coming in. A bit worrying really but should be better now

I think it was that pesky Cordell, he is one of those odd chaps that likes to see smoke coming out of the front of his 90 as well as the back

Oh goody here we go, electric vs hydraulic argument again Just give up now Minivin ... We know we're right

I was under the impression that Scrap stuff was mostly bought in and sold at a hefty profit, rather than borrowing the design?? Which is the technique for Scrap metal merchants the world over