BogMonster

Michele The SS550HF, standard one for a 300Tdi. As far as I can see there are no differences inside the wing for the new Tdi Defenders, compared to those built from 1994-98 when they were the standard engine everywhere. I'll probably post some pics when I put it on as I couldn't find any to make sure it was what I wanted (in terms of the plumbing inside the wing) before I ordered it.

Wot Lars said ^^^ MM valve wiring is ever so simple. Positive battery feed goes through a 5 amp fuse into a pin on the remote, and the remote connects that feed to one or other solenoid depending on which way the switch is pushed. 2 min with a multimeter set to "annoying beep" ought to figure out the hand controller's wiring. I use a Husky remote with mine, replaced the rubbish one that came with the MM about a year ago, though since going wireless I must admit I haven't used it much! I guess that is a Warn controller by the look of it? should work fine anyway. You just need to make sure whichever connection you use doesn't activate both solenoids at the same time

I know nothing about it, but working on the principle that what you need in a diesel is to keep the intake air temp as low as possible I would have thought it would make a big difference to the air temp and so increase the potential power output? Agree with the don't get it wrong bit though - an extinguisher into the intake for overtaking manoeuvres would probably not be a bright idea

Thanks all, good ideas. I will stick with the WD40 cap to replace the drain as 1) it worked well for me before and 2) its a nice shiny red bit on the engine B) The interesting thing with it is that it used to fill up with mud all the time. I can only think that it was the mushroom snorkel top collecting mud flicked up by wide tyres (12.50s - stick out past the arches) and when it dried out it would break up and go through the intake system. The filter was always clean, but the WD40 cap always had dried mud and grass in it! I will look into the Wolf type, not seen one and I didn't know they were different apart from the flappy bit on the outside of the wing. Anybody got a photo of one? There are lots of military LR's here but the only Wolf I have ever seen was an ambulance and I've no idea where it lives. Total waterproofing is probably not necessary but I figured I might as well do it properly - hence the desire to have something that is waterproof but can be easily removed for maintenance. I like the inner tube idea - simple and should be effective. I should think a 205R16 tube would be about the right size? I'll take it off and check that join, thanks Tony.

After the inevitable couple of months wait, my new Safari snorkel has finally put in an appearance, so tomorrow evening I will probably start putting it on For those who haven't seen a Safari off a vehicle it is a much improved design which replaces part of the stupidly designed internal air ducting inside the wing with a completely waterproof design. The stupid flappy rubber thing that acts as a water drain at the lowest point is easily dealt with using silicone sealant. However.... This leaves one possible point of water ingress which is the air filter housing. The "fanny" drain on the bottom of the filter housing end cap is easy to sort out; dump it and replace it with the red cap off a 400ml WD40 can, I did that on my last 90 and it is a good fit which with a bit of silicone or insulating tape will be waterproof. But the end cap of the air filter housing (the bit you unscrew and take off to change the filter) does not seem to be a terribly good seal on to the main body of the filter housing. I don't want to seal it on permanently with silicone or self amalgamating tape, because I need to take it off to get at the filter for maintenance, it's quite dusty here. Any ingenious ideas please? I am thinking something along the lines of a very big O ring made of soft rubber, though I haven't a clue where to find such a thing, but I wondered if anybody else has come up with a cunning plan to achieve this but still allow you to get the filter out easily? Discuss

Yes I am pretty sure it is Borrego Yellow which was also available on NAS Freelanders for a while

Scampi - Yum!

Note: If you can hear bubbles being sucked into the gear oils then you really do need some new seals I don't see why the idea shouldn't work; on a later model Td5 some of the breathers (EGR for one and I think on some models, turbo modulator) are routed into the clean air side of the airbox, and that works fine. They used to each have their own little in-line filter but they used to keep blocking up in dusty environments. If it works for the EGR system I don't see why it shouldn't work for anything else, and anyway I doubt the manifold depression on a diesel is that great, because unlike a petrol engine there is no throttle mechanism. As JB said though, best to disconnect before testing the sealing on the snorkel, diesels probably will run on EP90 but I'd guess there will be a bit of smoke

I use dialup at home all the time, no BB here, and our connection at work is a 64K (so similar speed) shared between about 20 computers (which is why I do all mine before anybody else gets to work, like now). Works for me, though downloading Read.jpg can take a while

02, A fine theory except you are ignoring the damage to the other end of your vehicle by the 17 others who were all travelling bumper to bumper using the same theory and none of whom had time to stop If you are driving far enough back you should have room to stop... which means no accidents, the accident coefficient of which - according to my calculator - is less than 1 small accident

Steps exist purely to provide an early audible warning of the fact that you are about to exceed your ramp breakover angle, or that the bridge/gateway you just entered is quite narrow so you should proceed with care

Why not have a look at the proper factory 300Tdi auto Discovery kickdown arrangement, should give you some ideas?

They are supposed to have codes between the remote and the base unit, bit like remote garage doors, so one remote cannot control another unit, but whether they would interfere if used right close together at the same time, no idea! It could be amusing though

I should think the answers will be "Noisy" and "Awesome" in that order

Ah so when I said I wasn't too far wrong then

As JB said, it's an EGR one so just tells EGR what the pump is doing, doesn't affect the operation. The EDC pumps have a whole load more electrocrud bolted onto them than that!

I did an order for work to VWP recently and I am pretty sure they had some water resistant momentary toggle switches on there because I think I ordered a couple. Don't have time to have a look at the moment though. Wireless remote is the way to go though, think of how irritating a wired remote to your telly would be if you had to go back to that, wireless winch remote is a similar leap in convenience You ain't gonna get one for a fiver tho... I found time VWP Switches About half way down p/no 49650. You'd need to waterproof the back of it but I guess you could mount it inside a small plastic container. Or mount it in the lid of an aerosol can, make the connections, and fill it up with isopon or something - that's how Dad used to make the coax connections on his radio aerials! You could combine the two - mount it through the lid, then mount that through the wing or something - not sure how waterproof the gaiter is though.

Jim, I hope it is Bx! I saw the article too.... Can't see them "stopping production" completely as they are still going to need the engine made for the Wolf, plus any replacement engines sold as parts, and for vehicles sold in other markets too (the African markets, us, I guess there are others). Not sure how many 300 Defenders get built now, can't be that many, I suppose there will come a time when it will be dropped from Defenders but hopefully not before the end of the current model Defender, whenever that is supposed to be (2008?) I saw something recently on converting a P38 RR to 2.8TGV, an interesting conversion

If you want more power and cooler EGT why not devise a LOx injection system and have a big bottle of oxygen strapped in the back - that should do the trick B) I also used to think my intercooler was "heat soaking" because of a slight gradual loss of power on long climbs, nothing major perhaps 10% down on power? Turned out to be a partially blocked fuel filter (I think - a new filter fixed it anyway!)

"something"

So the moral of the story is then "don't drive along with your nose 6 inches from the rear numberplate of the car you are following" Which people should be doing anyway....

Holy steering guard bow wave never tried it with a solid one but the water level in the engine bay was not that high as I got out to check the air filter afterwards (I knew the snorkel was not sealed!) so it doesn't appear to be a problem

What a load of BS!!!

I think Rick was referring to the bit that the pulley runs on which holds the viscous fan, not the bearing in the fan. AFAIk it is not available as a separate part from LR, but like alternators and belt tensioners, you may well find a std bearing like a 6203 can be made to fit...

Bird flu, bah! When was the last time you heard a chicken sneeze? Good joke though