Landrovernuts

Dapartment of Transport are up to speed with viton O rings. I can remember warnings about viton when I was working on the oil tankers, however our steam pressures and temperatures are well above the limits suggested above and can remember several people being treated for burns as this is what the viton does to the skin.

The ported ones I mentioned above have the metal insert in the hole of the gasket and as you say stop them from being burnt through. Having said that the laminate ones as used on a P38 have not given me any bother either. Toby

I have to be honest and say I have never found any that do not fit including the cheapies on ebay. As said above check they are the right way as they can easily be fitted the wrong way and then you have no chance getting them to seal. If you have standard heads fit the laminated stainless gaskets (each gasket does 2 ports) that were fitted to P38 RR. You can get them cheap on ebay (£8.70 for 4) rather than pay stealer prices. You can possibly get them cheaper else where if you have the time to look. If you have ported heads the composite big bore versions on ebay fit my V8 developments stage 3 heads perfectly. Toby

My V8 90 has a 1.2 transfer box and 265/75 tyres and pulls 5th easy even when towing. While it does have a 4.2 fitted, the previous 3.5 (injected) coped not so bad also. Toby

There is meant to be a small hole there to allow excess grease out when the sliding joint compresses when the suspension rises. My props and the many I have on the floor of the workshop all have a hole! Toby

having been a boiler and pressure vessel inspector, the current inspection requirements for an air receiver is: 1) External examination of vessel including a functional test of safety devices every 14 months 2) Internal examination of the vessel and test of pressure gauge and safety valve on test pump every 26 months depending on build standard. Some dry air/nitrogen systems can go every 60 months and some need to be done every 14 months. Inspection requirements should be on the declareation of conformity. This examination depending on competant persons may also involve an ultrasonic thickness test. These are normal inspection requirements for vessels on a Written Scheme of Examination, which unless you have a commericial garage you do not need. If you do have a commerical garage then you most definetley do need (but many do not). Hydraulic tests are now no longer required unless competant person sees something he does not like, as this is now seen as imposing extreme stress to the vessel. Most issues found were safety valves not lifting at or below the design pressure or the maximum working pressure (there is no 10% allowance allowed contary to popular belief) and rotting of the vessel top and bottom from excessive moisture. Auto drains while good when they do work should be tested every so often and having one does not mean you should not also have a manual drain also which should be operated in line with the current recommendation to drain at least daily to remove moisture, which most poeple do not! The other thing to bear in mind cheap vessel built to EN87 404 are cheap for a reason. They are thin (designed by accountants) made of carp material and do fail normally in the bottom due to corrosion and then normally escape through the roof of your workshop at a rate of knots. If I inspected any vessel made in Italy. I would also mark this on the statutory certificate as they are rubbish. Some of the best are old English vessels that were built before accountants became involved in Engineering. Hope this helps. Toby

Try around the handbrake lever - makes the back of your left leg cold and your right leg cold as it swirls round!

Eriks keep a full selection of belts, just go in and get what you want. Fenners used to also but have been absorbed into another company now I think - May be Ericks!

Thanks - as soon as it stops pouring with rain, I will check. I did notice when I took it for a run that it seemed to run much better and smoother on the 3.5 hotwire ECU than the 4.2 one that was set up for this engine! Toby

Swapped ECU - no improvement, then I swapped fuel temperature sensor and that still has made no difference. Anyone have any other ideas? Toby

I have got a 50th aniversary radiator in mine which fits a treat. You can use a landrover TD rad as already mentioned and these also work no problem. Toby

Recently, the fast idle on my 4.2 V8 (hotwire) has stopped working and it tries to idle at about 600 rpm when cold. It used to idle about 1100 rpm until it warmed up then drop back to about 850-900 rmp which was good. Seems to be a bit of a pig now until warmed up, but am putting that down to tthe slow idle. Not that it makes any differance but it is fitted in a 90 and has been fine for the last 7 years and prior to that was fine in a RR classic for 15 years other than routine stepper motor changes!. It would seem at the moment nothing is telling the stepper motor to increase the revs when cold. I know the stepper motor is working as it controls the idle when warm and you can see it dropping the revs back in increments when returning to idle. Just to be sure I have tried a known good stepper motor and it does the same. I have put my stepper motor into another engine and it is fine, so confident we can rule this out. I have changed the coolant sensor for one that I have tested and gives the resistance values as per the Landrover manual and that still has not fixed it. Would the fuel temperature sensor cause this fault? Tried disconnecting ECU power for about minutes to reset it. Next thing I was going to try is changing the ECU for another I have, but do not want to leave them changed as the current ECU is chipped and set up for my engine and the other I have is from a 3.5 hotwire discovery. Anyone got any other ideas before I go hunting for my other ECU? Nothing else seems wrong and even the MPG does not appear to be too bad (for a V8!!!). Just gone through an emmisions test with flying colours also. Any suggestions gratefully received! Toby

There needs to be a vent (most seem to be beside the UJ) otherwise the prop would hydraulically lock. I have a similar prop from Devon 4x4 which also vents from beside the UJ. I can remember greasing it before fitting and when try to compress the sliding joint, it locked until the excess grease had been expelled. Toby

Got my longer studs from main dealer. Old studs just knock out with a hammer. New ones just pushed in and pulled up tight when nuts done up. Studs are splined so will not turn as you do the nylocks up. Hope that helps. Toby

Another vote for LT85. Handles my tweaked 4.2 well enough along with towing. Just change the oil (engine oil) regularly and have had not issues. One other difference between the split and solid case boxes is that the solid case has a pump and filter. My old split case leaked oil out the bottom joint before I upgraded to a solid case. The old split case which was just noisy went into a V8 buggy and is still going strong.

Hi - Rods are the same, but pistons are different. I have heard of 3.9 pistons having some material removed from the crowns to be fitted in a 4.2, but unsure how long they last when this is done. Toby

Thanks Western - I may have to see if I can find a green one and try it, if not just live with the error! Toby

Just looked at the different pinion colours. I know what the red and blue are for, what about the green and yellow? Just debabting whether to try the green gear or not as changing the speedo gives the same error! Toby

I forgot to mention that I have the NAS type speedo cable fitted (two sections) so the road speed transducer for the EFI can be fitted. I would have thought that this was driven straight through and not reduced giving a slower cable speed. I may have to check that! Toby

Hi thanks for the replies. The tyres are all Goodyear MTR, about half worn evenly all round. The transfer box is a discovery 1.22 and the speedo is the original and most steady reading land rover speedo I have had (other than it reading wrong!) I used to remember the various pinions, but have forgotton, just wondered if changinging back to the normal 205/16 one would give a better reading. I might have to get my calculator out!!! Toby

Hi all, I know that LR speedos are not known for their accuracy, however was going down to Cornwall earlier and my 3 year old son wanted the television screen with the roads on (satnav) started so he could see the roads changing colour. What I was more concerned about (as I knew the way!) was how far my speedo was out by the satnav. At an indicated 70mph, I was only doing a satnav indicated 60mph. I know there are different pinions for the speedo drive in the transfer box and know that I have the blue one fitted as I have 235/85 tyres fitted. Whats the options on other colour pinions to gain some accuracy back - I am not expecting it to be perfect, but slightly better would be nice! Toby

That looks like my land Rover! I have just been out and taken some more, if you want them PM me your email address and I will forward them. Toby

I seem to have lost them, but will take a couple tomorrow (weather dependant) and send them to you. Toby

Agree with what has been said in the above posts, big piston 110 calipers make a big difference, however not so sure above putting front discs on the back as they will not fit unless you use front calipers on the back and even then you will have to alter the mounting brackets on the axle. Something I looked into ages ago (Iwas looking to fit vented discs on the back for another project), but when I found out about having to alter the axle mountings, I left well alone! Agree with the pads also, had a set of greenstuff pads on my 90 and hated them. I did like the old Pagid pads, but have not seen them for ages as they were quite soft and bit the disc well even when cold. You could say that they wore out quicker than other pads, but I used to prefer changing pads to discs (they were really disc friendly). So totally agree with decent Ferrodo/Mintex pads incidently I had a trip around the Ferrodo factory in the Czech Republic last year which was quite enlightning as they have 42 different friction material blends and heat treatments depending who they were manufacturing for. I also think the big thing here is available traction of the tyres and have to agree with the above. Try (if you can) some normal sized all terrain tyres and think you will notice a difference as pointed out the braking effort is increased with larger tyres and road grip reduced with mud terrains especially when wet. While in good condition Land Rover brakes are very good, but just remember you have half a ton of truck engine over the front axle which is bound to have a slight effect also! Toby

My original V8 90 back axle had 24 spline shafts with the 4 pin diff. Just remember they had the imperial drive flanges and so the half shafts are slightly longer. Toby