Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Daan just out of interest what is the overall height then now of your Landy????
Cheers,
I measured the height at 79.5 inch (202 cm) but this is with 1.5 inch lift and 35 inch simex tyres. it is now about 3 inch clear of the garage roof and one inch from the opened garage door.
The width of my garage is 78 inch -2 metre and the length is 510 cm or 200 inch.
As fridge says, the roof comes of quite easy, but its a ballage. You will find it very handy to have it in the garage for the occasional fiddle, even when it is up and running.
Getting it in the garage can always be made easyer by fitting some old rims to the rr axle and drive it on that. I have done this for years in a previous home (rental house..).
You do need some additional storage space, cos the bits coming of it are countless. you always find space somewhere, the rr garden a favorite.
Daan
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As Daan's piccy shows the roof is easily unboltable as one piece (and man-handleable as one person) and would net you the clearance you need to build the thing in the garage, either stick the roof outdoors if SWMBO will allow it or put it into storage with a mate. Or sell it and buy another one when you're finished, assuming you don't decide to go rag-top.
Yes, and Guess what I was doing to the roof in the garage? I was attacking it with a jigsaw, cutting 60 mm out of the height. Since it was a defender flat roof, the absence of the ribs loose another 20 mm. The endresult is a 80mm lower landy, which fits in my garage!
I think your garage is an OK size to build a S3, so get on with it!
Daan
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I believe there is one vehicle which ticks all boxes: the bucher Duro. This vehicle has portal de dion axles: basically independant, but with good ground contact as if it was a live axle. One day, I might pick one up from a military auction....
http://www.4x4mag.co.uk/septfeatures/septduro.htm
Daan
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Mine is insured for £8k, which on paper is good for '74 Series 3. But the spec is not dissimilar from yours.
Peter Best insurance was happy to insure it for that after seeing the pictures, no questions asked.
Ultimately, the insured value is reflected in the premium, So I cant see the insurer making to much of a problem about it.
Daan
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Anything can be made to work
Sisus arent portalled - they are just savage
put as many motors on a leccy winch as you like but its never gonna haul like this beastie
B)
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Hi guys,
One of my dutch mates has a 2.5 petrol engine, with a fancy electronic ignition. He is looking to do some mapping, but could do with an ignition advance curve as a baseline.
Anyone knows were to find one?
Regards, Daan
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slightly random question, but still on topic: can I fit a LED bulb into a military style glass screw on cap? I am thinking of using these lights to provide a more bash friendly setup, ie not having to carry a load of lenses every time I go for a play.
daan
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For this sort of money a PTO Mechanical driven unit is a good possility
electric winches are a waste of money
Nige
just qouting...
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were they genuine? I had pattern ones and they looked finished after 1 year. There could be a difference in quality.
daan
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torch them, then cut the outer bush.
Use an Impact Technology Device to get the new ones in.
Daan
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I have been trying to get a new set of chrome swivel housings for my landy: no result sofar. They all seem to have gone over to teflon and I have bad experiences with these. Does anyone from the panel know of a supplier who does them in chrome? partno FRC 7065.
Cheers, Daan
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3 nights under canvas at sub-zero temperatures.
Interesting when your socks were wet the night before, they are rock solid in the morning. very, very cool....
I also got to know 8274s inside out, having rebuilt them 3 times. arent they just great?
apart from that, it was fun.
Daan
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Isn't a guy allowed to play with his toy?
If he want's to know the temperatures, and do original research, why shouldn't he be encouraged, instead of being shouted down?
Dieselmax is a hell of a lot more complicated than just one limiting factor. I'd suggest that Ricardo's expertise cannot be reduced to a single sentance in a Land Rover forum.
In other words, trying to use Dieselmax as justification, or not, for a hobby interest modification on a Land Rover engine is extremely misleading, and of no practical benefit to the original poster. Let's stick to the question, eh?
Everyone is allowed to play with his toy. In fact I wasn't shouting at it, and asked a question, because i was wondering whether it is critical, in which case I might have to go playing with it myself.
As far as the dieselmax being more complicated- yes- me talking about it being misleading -no- since I was one of the designers of dieselmax.
Daan
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On the dieselmax it was the limiting factor, they were running 4 bar manifold pressure and the pistons were special units to take the beating. Remember, the BMEP of that engine was over 25bar and the expected life was minutes.
In practice, the Tdi will put out well over 700deg EGT at turbine inlet and, since this is the concensus limit for the standard turbo, I've backed off my fuelling settings (or my right foot, in the shorter term!) as a result.
The limiting factor was not temp but pressure, resulting in blowby. The manifold pressure was 6 bar.
Since more intercooling also results in lower exhausttemp, I wasn't expecting it too big a prob. How does the egt fare in standard form?
Daan
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Thats all interesting tech boys, but With the risk of being called a cynical dibnah bobbelhat wearer: Has any of you actually found a need to know the turbotemp? Ie have any of you reached a temperature were you were worried the impeller wheel would indeed fall of?
Reason for asking is that exhaust temp on a diesel isnt that high, I never expected it to be a problem. On the dieselmax landspeedrecord turbos it never was a problem, and the boost on that was more than most of us would ever dream of.
Daan
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Good thinking so far, like the plan. One comment though: I would ignore any suppliers and get some tools and a good garage if you havent got one.
It allows you to do it all with your bare hands, making the endresult much more enjoyable. With the money you have available, you can get a coilchassis with all the rights brackets etc. and it becomes pretty much a nut and bolt job.
One more piccy to keep your appetite:
Daan
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I am now the lucky owner of a freelander propshaft with viscous. Does anyone know how the bearing of the viscous are supposed to come off? I reverted to the largest ITD (impact technology device-hammer) I have, but I completely mullerd the rubber surrounds, but the bearing looks its needs 20 tons of presure to get it of. Am I missing something?
Daan
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I have used them in the past and the service was dreadful
I didn't then use them for ages.
Then I was told that "Changes had been made and all was now wonderfull"
So I used them again
Shambles totally useless,
monkeys not hvaing any idea what parts are what, wrong deliveries, poor packaging, poor quality goods, some damaged some missing, and generally a complete farce
Never ever use them again, why bother some of the parts quality is appalling the service worse, there are so many others who will do a better job, and thats all I ask.
Please ..............deliver what I ask for, for the price you quote, quickly, properly packaged
Paddocks - prob have trouble finding their own A**eh**es with both hands a torch and a set of instructions
Nige
All true; but they are cheap and we know what that usually means for staff:
Pay peanuts, get monkeys.
I still use them and allow for time to put faults right, which they usually do.
Is there a parts suplier which someone can recommend? I have a feeling they are as bad as each other, the dealers included.
I heard Brookwells earlyer in this tread, any others?
Daan
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It is pretty straightforward and involves a drill and a honingtool (not sure what the correct name is). It consist of 3 grinding stones on springs and you rotate the drill at low RPM while moving it up and down the bore. I haven't done it myself but I have seen someone doing it. There must be someone on here who's got first hand experience.
Daan
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Are you honing the cylinders? its not hard to do and can be done with the engine in place. I have been advised strongly against fitting new rings without honing the bores, and that it is money in the bin to do so.
Daan
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Who needs tig welding. Were did you learn to develop such a steady hand, Les?
Daan
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On rally cars it is usually around 6-8 degrees, that might be the right bracket for you as well.
Remember though, that the more castor you have, the less ground clearance your draglink has, important for rough terrain.
Daan
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Daan
I expect you have misunderstood the meaning of my post
it is obviously a good design/idea and very well done
but for Mr mudmonkey to recreate, I was pointing out the amount of work involved to recreate such a decent piece of work
isn't to be underestimated.
plus Mr MM doesn't have an 88 and I doubt for a while won't be entering the RFC type event.
No worrys, but I think the idea would work well on a 90 too, especially to keep the length of the waffleboards, I had to shorten mine, limited by the PTO sticking out of the gearbox.
My setup really emerged because the car was build from the ground up and I realized how much unused space there is on a landy, bad packaging really.
Daan
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the amount of work involved in re creating the above pic
can't be under estimated, not just a case of removing a floor panel and fitting some waffles in place.
look at he fabrication of the wheel tubs and the work to cover the axle components.
why remove the original floor any way?
underneath are the tub cross braces remove these and as Julian says there'll be issues with tub support.
White 90, that sounds ridiculously sensible for someone who cuts his front wings and puts bend steel tube back in place. Next thing you say is that it isn't worth it. Well it is for me, It allowed me to have all my spare parts and oils under the floor, and all living consumables above it, there is not much space in an 88 inch, and this way I had clear view behind me and Cof G low. Outside competition, after a clean, you have a nice anti slip floor, with all your tools and equipment underneath it, very practical.
In my case, There is no suspension A-frame, allowing me to take max advantage of the space saving. The lowered floor just bolts onto the chassis, which it is hard up against.
daan
A question for the welding stig
in Tools and Fabrication
Posted
I would suggest use joggle pliers, and puddleweld on several spots. Filler up and sand it smooth. its what most bodyshops do, for a good reason.