Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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So what you really want is Daan's truck minus the Simex
Lewis
It looks basically that way. Good to see someone shares my tast in landys! Mine is a shortened 90 chassis with disco axles, 300 tdi engine, box and steering. the chassis is galvanised, all mechanicals rebuilt or new.
It has been very much what I wanted, but at an expense: money wise its on the wrong side of 10 K, but with a brandspanking new engine, ashcroft box, detroits, ashcroft shafts, kam c/p, roll cage, simex you could say its good value. I wont get that money back I dont think, a S3 will never catch anywhere near as much as a defender.
Having said that, it took me 4 years to create as a background project. The reason for doing it was that I needed a 90 really, which in reality meant getting shot of the s3. I decided to keep it, its my first car ever, had it since I was 17 making it 16 years of ownership.
I learnt an awfull lot from it and mostly enjoyed building it. But I would not recommend going for it if you are not able to do it yourself. Paying someone else for it is going to cost you more than buying a new or nearly new 90 TD5 I think.
You see, the plan was to spend 5K in one year and be done with it; the end result was 10 K and 4 years.
Most people get shot of it way before that ( I reckon 50%-75% gets sold on as unfinished project) so it really can be hard work at times.
Regrets? surely not. Would I ever do it again? No.
Daan
Daan
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he'd prefer me to use BB as it deforms better in a big crash
I find that statement a bit worrying especially because the FIA specifically states you cannot use it, because it isn't strong enough. I am surprised that a scrutineer thinks that scaffold tube (which is bb I believe) is the prefered material.
Daan
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Thinks on this some more I suspect our trans Atlantic friends may be using 4 link due to the amount of travel they have. Would a Watts start to lose the plot at 30"?
I dont think its a major issue as long as bump and droop are equally distributed. just run a drooplimiter in the centre of the axle and you solved the problem, while maintaining loads of articulation
With the watts system would you get into an issue with the fact that the watts needs to be central but the drive shaft is not, would they act against each other encouraging movement on the short side reducing it on the longer side?Mark
Shouldn't make a difference, a torque is a torque, regardless were you aply it on the axle
Can I throw some more logs on the fire, what about a 'woblink' does the same as watts linkage but I think it has better packaging, especially with the offset diff of a Land Rover. Originally designed to keep the roll centre very low ie. ground level but can be turned upside down etc the links would then be up out of harms way and you can dial the roll centre in any where you like. I've built a mock up in MDF down the garage I can take a photo later if require, just type woblink into Google.Andy
I wouldn't consider that one, because realy a lower rollcentre in combination with soft springs would make the car very unstable on side slopes. turning upside down? maybe but at that stage packaging becomes interesting to say the least. Anyway, show us your mock up.
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Then of course there is the analysis utopia, although in reality less than practical, but could be a removable section if the engine was low enough. The deflection drops to a tiny 1mm deflection
That all looks impressive, but....
Are you guys planning a bankrobbery? Thats just way overkill imho.
Daan
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you might get away with it if you have them equal length and exactly parallel from side view and top view. otherwise, you could always leave one out...
Daan
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hello Slovak number plates...
I already got a Czech car in my household on the basis that its registered on a czech address which can be proven. So far so good, maybe I need to explore that one a bit more, the landy is LHD anyway.....hmmmm.
Daan
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4 link plus wats would be overconstrained, you could offset the toplink.
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I think its the best way to control side forces, the 4 link, especially with longer arms is less than ideal for this. Also roll centre of watts linkage is obvious and predictable on every position of axle. Also, packaging will be much easyer.
In my opinion 3 link + wats is more desirable than 4 link. Whether the disco 2 parts are prone to wear is a different matter, but Bowler is using the disco pivot on the dakar cars. The links are custom
My future project will potentially feature this, whenever this is (ever?). Currently I use radiusarms with panhard, which I am very happy with.
Daan
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I like that very much. If you didn't say it was a scale model, would anyone have noticed?
Daan
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My winch motor is two and one quarter litres of fire breathing fury. Will pull all day and never overheat.
Bill.
Bill, dont give away the secret of the Dibnahwinch. It is impossible to solve the problem with such a simple solution; the solution has to cost at least thousands of pounds to be any good. Electric has to be the way!
daan
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Personaly couldnt give a F*** im afraid, what does it matter
I have to say, after 4 pages of going round in circles and away from the original topic, Bathtub expresses exactly what I am thinking; we need more like you!
Daan
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Just read with a slight chuckle but also with a little niggle an article in the LRM that came out just this weekend....
Ir is the one about the fitting of the Max traction kit that refers to 'their new shocks' that are specifically valved for them and brought in to them direct from the States.
So, as in the title, why do companies do this? Is it to make themselves sound more impressive? Is it to hide the origin of their product for fear of the customer going direct? Why do they do it 'cause thay always end up looking silly in the end....
The shocks are my new Rough Country ones. They are valved specifically for Land Rover vehicles at my request not that of any other, and they were delivered direct to them from the States via Mid Wales!!
I openly admit that the suspension bracketry is mainly from Gwyn Lewis, the packers I sell are from Mill Services, etc.
I see no need to hide these facts. I sell at the same price as them so there is no need to go direct to them for a better buy....
Likewise i can tell you the names of all the traders who sell my hoses and now Shock absorbers....
I don't really know why I moan as the sale will come to me anyway but why can;t we ( the trade ) all sort this out? I sell their stuff at their price, they sell my stuff at the same price as me and we live off the profit we give each other as trade discount without all this silly ' exclusive to me' pants which just comes back to bite you on the bum!!
And if Editors were actually aware of their market place and products might they be able to edit these silly calims out of our hobby / job?
Just a pointless rant really but it is a topic that just annoys me!
David
Its called bull****ting which the whole magazine is full off. But we all know this dont we? Can I ask you a question: why do you care? They write about your shocks for free and make them look the bizz. Perfect, everyone who wants them is goint to get them through you. Job done. I wouldn't complain.
Daan
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I've followed this with my "he's talking b*****ks" head on ... then you show me a picture of a couple of bog rolls and well ... stand back in amazement!!
Twist it 90 degrees ... that's too rediculously easy for my brain to cope with ... I need a lie down.
AndyG
Thanks everyone for acknowledging it works, not least with the bogrolls! This tread deserves to be put in the archives as being one of te funniest.
Daan
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All of you are right!
Simon, the grafic representation is right, this is what happens when you have unequal arms. equal arms work better, when you have a choice.
However, in real life, with a lot articulation, this is not what happens. What does happen is that one wheel moves up, the other moves down. The a-arm does not move anywhere near as much as this representation shows. the representation will only ever happen when the truck is airborne for a long time, hardly a worry for us.
So in that respect I also say jim has a point and his setup does bring advantages.
There is a bit more to it in my mind, the main thing is that a lot of mods only help in droop, while bump is equally as important. For any setup, if you can balance bump and droop, you are improving. if you increase droop at the expense of bump, in my opinion, your car is not improving.
Daan
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some of us are sooooo busy....
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Daan (et al) is right
Al.
Cheers, I dont hear this very often and I wasnt going to start a row over it, because I dont care. But, yes with so many things simple is best.
Daan
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I have delt with these people on a few occasions: http://www.speedycables.co.uk/
They work as their name suggests.
Daan
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Tube notching can be really easy: a 90 degree tube notch is in fact a tube straight cut twice at 45 degrees. Have a look at a notched tube and this is a very close approximation of the shape. This is how I did all mine. It needs a bit of fettling afterwards, because this method assumes 0 wall thickness, which you obviously havent. if the angle is not 90 degrees, say 45 dgrees, the cutting angle will be 22.5 and 67.5 degrees and so on. once you get the hang of it, its easy! (as usual..).
Daan
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Just did mine this weekend:
I made the retainer out of some 16 swg aly plate, riveted in place. Make the ball feature by using the pushrod and press it into a hole with the plate in between.
Daan
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That's my understanding too. Worth giving them a call Daan
Eh.... yes the website mentioned them, and yes I ordered them. Then wondered where they are. Phoned back and the reply was: We never had BSF bolts, but we can get them for you; 2.30 pounds ech, which is fine, but: minimum order 2000....
i got mine out of a ser 2a diff, i think ser3 didn't have themNow ordered, cheers tonk.
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mine are fitted with locktabs, never had a problem
Sounds like the way to go then. Are these s3 or s2?
Cheers, Daan
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funnily enough we have been looking into this last week after also having had this problem,
we go to 45 ft/lb a med strength loctite on brake cleaneered threads but this is still not good enough for some applications,
KAM use a 3/8 BSF thread like the older 4.7 series diffs, this is quite a corse pitch not as good as the later 3/8 UNF, all 3.54's and our 4.11's use the 3/8 UNF ,
you can buy higher tensile 12.9, 3/8 UNF bolts but they are all socket caps and thus do not have a shank which is very important to locate the crown wheel,
the later P38 diffs use the same thread in 12.9's, hex head with integral washer but have no shank, not ideal. (and they are £ 2 each),
we are doing 3 things :
1) costing up a batch of 2000, 3/8 UNF, 12.9 tensile, 1 1/8", hex head with 3/8" shank and integral washer,
2) being higher tensile we can fit to a higher torque, waiting to speak to a guy tomorrow who has these figures,
3) buying high strength permanent fixing loctite.
should do it,
Dave
Hi Dave, thanks for this quick reply on a sundaynight, its weekend mate!
I had fitted capheads initially, but on fitting the diff to the casing I had an 'oh my god' moment: capheads catch the diff casing.
So hexheads it is. BSF bolts are not ideal, if only from a supply point of view, but with these crownwheels, I am stuck with it. I dont think tightening them harder by 25% would make them break, would you? In the case of new custom bolts, the best would be to have the shank as short as possible. This allows the threaded part more stretch wich decreases the tendency to come undone. This might also be the clue with the p38 bolts. I think friction is really what keeps them together and the fully threaded bolt is the best in stretch.
My plan currently is to use loctite, tab washers from a s3(or 2) and schnor washers and give them 25% more welly.
To be continued....
Daan
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you could always drill the bolts and lock wire them so it cant happen
I dont think lockwire stop them getting loose, but they do stop them getting undone, once they are loose if you see what I mean.
I have a more direct question to Mr ashcroft (who is on this forum): what torque are you using for the crownwheel bolts with this kind of setup?
Thanks, Daan
Failed MOT...no hazard warning connected on Series 3
in International Forum
Posted
I had exactly that on a '74 s3. It was easily solved with a litle 60 pence halfords bulb. dont waste your time arguing it; its just a pedantic mot man who cant believe that a crappy series landy will pass first time. He was looking forward to give it a good kicking and make his day, the miserable old b****ard. Now you p'd him of by having an old landy that almost passed, cant have that! Mot testers are like birds; dont question it, just give them what they want and its all over for another year.
Daan