Daan
-
Posts
4,949 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
46
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Gallery
Blogs
Posts posted by Daan
-
-
-
I use the standard eyebrows. Not sure how far they protrude from the bodywork, the car is not handy here. I can measure tonight though if you like. on +8mm offset rims and 35x10.5x16 simex tyres, the outer edge of the entire wheel assy fits perfectly level inside the standard eyebrow.
Daan
-
Are you fitting defender bodywork and eyebrows? the 0mm will stick out slightly in this case. The 8mm offset rims (common size modular wheel) will just about be level I think. In terms of wheel bearing, steering box and ball joints. 0mm is the furthest I would go and has been reliable on my car for many years. I have now fitted 8mm offset wheels again, to be a bit more kind to my steering box.
Daan
-
I would only use Britpart in this application if the aim is reduction of the population.
-
Perfect, thanks ralph.
Daan
-
1
-
-
Hi, I am after the plastic nuts which you screw the screw in to hold on the headlight surround. Part 16 in the diagram. Also, what is the partnumber of the screw (part 15).
Thanks in advance.Daan -
I have seen 101 springs, and to prove it I have a picky:
That picture only reinforces my thought: you have a spring over axle with 9x16 tyres and a heavy car to stop. the leverage from the ground is about 600 mm to the spring .Even lifting the throttle would bend that spring like buggery.
In my humble opinion of course.
Daan
-
on a leafspring car, if you brake hard the axle is trying to wind up the leafs, therefore the diff tilts up and your prop angle changes, that would certainly give you the problem you describe. The 101 has very thin (parabolic?) springs, so I imagine that to happen. That double u/j would solve all problems, because as mentioned, there is a constant velocity both ends, regardless of the angles.
Most cars, including the new disco and rangerover(I think) have cv's for the driveshafts going into the diff. Its just a bit less durable offroad. Main reason to use a cv on both sides of the propshaft is to remove the vibration altogether. Even if you have a propshaft with u/j that are exactly the same angle, there is still a secondary vibration going on, because the propshaft is getting accerated and decelerated twice during every rotation, so there is still a vibration going on.
Daan
-
If you fit longer shackles to the front, the diff tilts backwards, potentially getting it the same or near the angle of the gearbox, eliminating the need for a double cardan prop. Gives better castor as well.
-
Starting on an existing registration with a like for like chassis is easier and legal.
-
The original poster showed a link to the hot rodders page about propshaft angles. The 'absolutely not' reference is referring to the W-configuration, rather than the Z configuration (parallel). Every coil sprung landrover has the W configuration at the front and this works very well, as long as the angles are the same on both ends of the prop. It does help that the diff tilts in right direction when traveling through the suspension. The phasing is mainly done if the u/j angles at the diff end is not the same as the gearbox end. the fluctuation is very small though.
For leafers its a bit different. I don't agree with sorens' statement that the shackle makes the diff tilt. The hight change as a result of the shackle pivoting is 0.02 of nothing, you can safely assume the diff stays horizontal during the suspension travel. That makes the double cardan a pretty bad solution, as it only works properly when the gearbox u/j has 0 degree angle.
-
Hi Daan
On the 200 the joint between the flywheel housing and the block is oil-side and the heavy wax paper gasket gets hard from heat and fails , s it may be worth popping it off and replacing it ?
cheers
Steveb
I did replace this seal in 2012 (see post 16), and haven't found a reason to replace it now. Also, on a 300, it does not seal to the sump (see modification in post 16). Either way, the engine is back in now!
There seems to be some misunderstanding and scepticism regarding the later type seals.
I was workshop foreman in a L/R dealers when they first appeared so maybe the following may help.
It's a Dowty seal and was introduced by Land Rover on the Turbo D engines because the earlier seal couldn't cope with the increased crankcase pressures. It's a very good seal and was subsequently retained on the Tdi engines.
It does however need to be fitted correctly, the "paint" around the outside is in fact a sealant and if fitted to the correct depth (below flush) in the housing, should not come out.
The seal must be fitted to a clean, dry crank, if you lubricate the crank, the seal will not bed in and work properly, the seal relies on a degree of friction to mould itself to the crankshaft, hence the no lubricant. The seal guide should not be removed except when it's pushed out during fitting.
If the guide is accidentally displaced you must not touch the sealing surface and carefully refit the guide.
After reassembling the engine you must not run it above 1000rpm for at least five minutes to allow the seal to work.
I've no idea if the "aftermarket" seals are genuine Dowty or just copies. It's a Dowty that comes out of a Land Rover box though.
Yes, I thought the paints job was to keep it in, but judging from my previous experience, it doesn't always work. I have kept the expander in and the sealing face degreased and dry. I really hope this time it will work.
Daan
-
Its hard to judge whether the green paint comes off. I have not removed the housing, it is a bit more fidly with the housing on, but if you use the expander and have a round tube of the right size, you can tap it in quite nicely.
Daan
-
Digging this up from the past. Yes, that allmakes crankseal started leaking, after about a year leak free. The leak became quite big, so the engine is out again. The crank seal face looked mint, so thats not the problem. Having thought of the problem, I figured that with most critical parts on a land rover, Genuine is the only answer. But a genuine seal has this stupid green paint on the outside, which comes off when you press it in the hole, leaving the seal loose in the hole.
So what do I do?
I started by buying a genuine seal from the dealer:
I scraped of the paint:
Then glued it in using loctite 640 (high temperature retaining compound). This should stop it from popping out.
I hope this works, will keep you all posted.Daan -
I don't need to rebuild my radiator, the one I have is perfectly fine. I need a spare to take to Croatia, and I thought can I fit an aluminium one in the car and take my current copper one as a back up spare.
Daan
-
I just send an email with the part numbers I need to this address:
retail@bearmach.com
They usually come back with prices the same day and ship if you order before 4pm.
Daan
-
My current one is copper, from Bearmach, and is still very good, 5 years on. The only problem with it is that the top copper plug is seized solid, was from new, no way it will ever come out without damaging it. I order everything either direct from the Bearmach shop or from the dealer these days, because they have stock. If I wanted another copper radiator, that is what I recommend. the TDCI radiator and intercooler is with plastic endcaps. The early ones did occasionally split, later ones are ok. I am now tempted to try a cheap aluminium welded rad, and take the copper one as spare. I am a bit surprised no one on here has one, as they seem to sell a lot of them, and many different brands.
Daan
-
Bearmach or the dealer is what I use.
Daan
-
I have a TDI which recently needed a new rad, a lot of the fins had turned to dust.I went to the local specialist, who unprompted said there is a lot of rubbish out there, but recommended a NIssens plastic/aluminium rad. He said they had tried different makes, they weren't the cheapest, but these didn't give trouble and cooled better than standard. However I ended up getting them to put a new (4 core) core in the old one, but that cost quite a bit more.
Interesting post.
Almost every single car on the road built in the last 15-20years has plastic/aluminium radiators fitted.
We're hardly surrounded by vehicles with bust rads are we...
What I thought.
Daan
-
I am looking for another radiator for my 300 tdi. Currently a standard copper one, that weighs a ton, but works well. I was originally going to buy a spare, and thought of one of the plastic ended ones. Cheap and light, but the stories of them splitting are not ideal. just over £100 buys you one. then I thought, why not fit one of those and have the copper one as back up spare.
Then we have the allisport ones, £450. If money is no object, that's the one to go for.
Then there are lots of ebay sellers that do allisport copies for about £150, fully tig welded. That sounds almost too good to be true, and that usually means it is.
Has anyone actually used one of the cheaper radiators, or the plastic ended ones and what are the experiences?
Regards,
Daan
-
I know classic landys are on the up, but 200 K is pushing it a bit far; even concourse restored ones don't get that!
-
Simon didn't mention the time involved in product design and development. I reckon the £200 ones are potentially robot welded and definitely not in the uk.
Daan
-
This year, the croatia trophy is happening again, from 27th of april untill the 5th of may.
Mark and I are going as well, in our trusty series 3 in the trophy class:
http://croatia-trophy.org/ct/start-list/
We are hoping for a finish!
I am going to be busy preparing the car, and will update on my members vehicle page about the car.
Any one else planning to enter?
Daan
-
1
-
-
What if's!
What if the seller was unaware of the true state of the chassis?
What if they just asked the local garage/Fred in a shed/Bob in a barn, to get it through an MOT as cheap as possible?
What if the garage/Fred/Bob passed the welding work on to someone else?
What if the guy that did the welding truly believed he'd done a good job?
What if everyone involved thought everything under the mask of thick underseal was fine?
You missed one: what if the seller is also an mot man.
-
1
-
Teaser pics of next project
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
coilsprung?
daan