Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Glad youre ok, having had 2 big shunts myself (one sitting in the passenger seat) did change me as a driver, so I'd say Chalk it up as experience.
I can see a project coming up....
Daan
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measuring what's really happening
Burn the witch, burn him!
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Chaps, this is a HOT topic so to speak. We have spend 3 pages of waffling on about how an intercooler actually works. Lots of opinions and hearsay, even some one stated facts
.If only someone could do some real life testing that is relevant to the subject, than that is usefull info for this forum, as it stands this is turning into a copy and paste from Wikipedia.
Go out and measure something, then report back to us all.
Daan
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I've used Wessex galvanizers in Southampton very helpful however the finish is a little agricultural. But I would happily recommend them for stuff you don't necessarily see mind I could of just of had a rough batch.
Mike
This are my findings as well, but probably the closest to you.
East anglia galvanizers in peterborough is were I had my chassis done, and their finish is better by a mile I'd say, it looked mirror finish almost. Shame their forklift driver messed it up by throwing it in a corner and bend a bracket.
Daan
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Or: 'advice is what we ask for when we already know the answer but wish we didn't'.
Some people leave it alone, others completely deactivate the wastegate, and 'it still works'.
Added to toy rovers comments, I would add Intercooling.
you get into high EGR temps, which you can monitor. The factory sets it up in such a way that it never gets in danger of high EGR temps, if you monitor EGR, you can work around that.
Problem is that the higher the boost, the higher the air temp going into the intercooler/engine, and it gets very ineffective very soon.
Allard used to specifically state that they only work on intercooling and fueling, and leave the turbo alone, as higher boost puts more thermal stress on the whole engine.
They do have a stage 3 set now, which includes a new turbo:
This system is as for the Phase 2 conversion, but includes in addition an uprated turbocharger and a boost control valve to allow maximum boost to be raised to 1.25 bar and to match the higher airflow of the improved intercooler system. The normal 16-row intercooler can be replaced by an even larger upto 24-row intercooler. Power 110 bhp (standard) up to 143 bhp (Phase 3) Torque 195 lb.ft (standard) up to 257 lb.ftPresumably, using the standard turbo, upping the boost isn't giving the results you expect.
Judging from what allard is doing, I'd say leave it.
Daan
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Yes.
And welcome to the forum!
Daan
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Here ya go
Lol your comparing apples and oranges, your running a stiff short coil and if you were to tie them in you are right it would hold up the down hill wheel and due to front weight bias pull/tip the truck
Also you have your system setup for more down travel than up the stiff dislocating spring allows this, a retained spring system will be linear in its rate (unless you can bind up coils under compression) this means that its ride height must be in the middle of its travel that means to set it up for less up travel you need to add a jounce or bump to increase the rate on up travel (hyd bumps do this very well)
What I'm getting at is to do either properly you need to design a system around this.... if you adapt from one to the other you will compromise it in both
Just on a side note.... does wildfing balance on the front or rear axle, it is very hard to get suspension truely balanced, normally one is stiffer and more dominant, normally the front due to the stiffer springs required because of the greater weight, but given the level of your mods lol and the narrow front spring mounts..... you wouldn't have any video of it walking over articulating terrain
Bill my wife says that the suspension on your car looks unnatural
. Admittedly, in that situation, when the car is perfectly horizontal, I think more travel is better. How would you say your car on side slopes and off camber situations?
daan
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An intercooled 300 pulling a heavy trailer up a very steep incline at say 10mph on a hot day would have little or no advantage over a non intercooled 300 doing the same.
Intercooler is only of any use when cold air is being rammed through it to cool the air coming from the turbo.
Loss of power from split pipe is down to lack of boost and not cooling.
I dont think the intercooler is much use at all unless the engine is working and the vehicle is travelling enough to ram the air through the intercooler, outside air passing through the vanes would be travelling much much more slowly than the air being rammed though by the turbo
Just my thoughts and not anything scientific,
This is exactly what I was describing why you need to have a fan at low speeds. A good working viscous fan with the correct cowling that is properly sealed to the rad and intercooler. Without it, the intercooler is pointless at low speeds.
Daan
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Why? In low range slow stuff there's barely a load on the engine, hardly any boost at all and low egt's. No need for an intercooler. Unless you're doing sustained full throttle boghole crossings or something similar.
I only get boost over 0.5bar when stomping the throttle in 3rd or 4th low gear in soft sand up hills with both lockers engaged.
Did you measure temperatures before and after the intercooler while you did this? I found 10 degrees difference between with or without a fan on anything that is higher than tickover.
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Is there any published research on the effect of vehicle speed against intercooling effect anywhere ? I'm about to re pipe a 200TDI in my SII to do away with the intercooler.Again I dont want loads of power,it was a free engine to replace a worn out petrol. Reliability and better consumption will be nice,I was even thinking of shutting the pump down.Most of its work will be in the woods in low range,1st/2nd gear stuff.Cant see that an intercooler would be any help to me at all - just more pipework...
I disagree, if you read this (my own findings), you will see why: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78688&page=1
I would not run a tdi without an intercooler myself, it is a free mod in terms of gains, even if you dont use the extra power, it will translate in better efficiency. You will need to use a fan with it at low speeds though.
Daan
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Chaps, keep it tidy, its only a hobby after all...
One other thing that probably has resulted in the dislocation trend is that when fitting a larger tyre to a car, it will start to touch on full bump, resulting in less travel. Cutting wheelarches to acommodate this is too much a commitment for most people, so the only way to increase travel is downward, hence the dislocation way.
Daan
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They work pretty good in the applications I have seen. Following the above comment about impeding the waterflow, I would attempt to run it in parralel with the engine driven waterpump. This way, you have double redundancy, and more flow at lower revs. I am of the opinion though that it does not solve a lack of cooling.
Edit: you could even control it with MS, so to let it kick in if things get a bit redline.
Daan
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A shame that the grass roots competitor seems to have vanished; comp safari got expensive, because you need the trick suspension and the tuned engine, then you had challenge, which also got expensive because of the winches and purpose built axles.
Now we have U4, which needs the trick suspension, tuned engine, expensive winches and axles.
You cannot blame the organizers, they have a everyman challenge as well to cater for the grassroots competitor, but on KOG, this had zero entrants!
I dont think the copycat thing is new though, one reason why I wouldn't want to make or sell landy bits for a living.
Anyway, to stay on topic, I recon we dont need more shows, just try to merge elements of different shows together to make it more interesting. Also, you cannot expect all the traders to go to all shows, so by having fewer shows, you ensure plenty of traders and plenty of visitors.
Just some rumblings....
Daan
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Stateside the rockcrawlers have enormous travel with coil overs, and not a dislocation thing in sight 18" travel off the shelf, more than any land rover could handle without some serious modification.
Variable rate springs with spring stops etc
I suppose the real difference is in the cost, £10 for a bit of angle iron or £1000 per corner for a long travel coil over and springs.
I dont agree with this last statement; the fact that people spend a lot of money doesn't have to stop you looking for the how and why things are like they are. To achieve 18" of travel per wheel, the only way to do it is to have very soft springs, or airshocks, or move the springs closer to the centre of the vehicle. variable rate is not really what you want, although you can play tunes with it if you have 2 coilsprings stacked up on top of each other (which is what the x-spring does to get more droop). most USA offroaders also run a anti roll bar to stop it leaning too much, but this must restrict articulation. A anti roll bar is no different from running radius arms.
I suspect they also run a much stiffer shock to compensate for soft springs. This then makes the ride harsher at speed, which you can change if you fit bypass shocks, so the shock does go stiffer as it compresses further.
Anyway, the main thing that makes the buggys different from a landrover is that they have a lower COG, so then the leaning in a corner or side slope is not as bad.
I personally haven't restrained my coils at the top, and they are on the verge of dislocating on full droop. it works for me with the spring rates. I worked out that the springs compress 135 mm at the front and 125 mm at the back at ride height. they go to double that on full bump (were the opposite wheel lifts of the ground), so 270 mm at the front and 250mm at the back. This is also pretty much what a radius arm can do, so where people say a radius arm restricts travel, it doesn't for the amount of travel that my shocks and springs give me.
This is the travel that this spring can achieve with this weight. my shocks pretty much exactly have this travel. The travel at the wheel is greater still during articulation.
I have seen some pretty scary moments with (usually lifted) vehicles on down hills and sideslopes were the springs started dislocating; didn't like the look of it and that is how I ended up where I am.
In my view, the whole dislocation thing is the result of unbalanced travel: where people say their back end flexes 14", it means that it is dislocating from the spring, and it usually does this when the front flexes by about 4". so although the front could do about 10", if it were balanced, but only does about half of that. You'd have about 18" of total travel, where as a balanced system would have 10" from both ends, giving 20" total flex.
Just my ideas.
Daan
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A bit of googling showed a few of scorpion, and QT. to be fair to terrafirma; I have not seen one of theirs broken yet, so there might be hope it is stronger. We dont know material thicknesses and strengths, so it is hard to predict from the picture.
I have tried to like you bill, but try as i might, my pc froze at that thought. Dont take it personal, mate...Daanedit: I just manage to 'like' your post!-
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Looking good, as always. Are you using a single caliper? the double caliper solution always looks a bit, well, not so factory.
On which car is this going to live? I lost track of what is in the traffic jam in front of your garage.
Daan
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They look very similar to the QT ones (which were reported to fail) but have a wrap welded round the bush. The bush looks very thin to me, were the qt ones used to break. Also, the section area from the second bush to the bottom of the arm looks very minimal to me, but at least they didn't cut holes in this area like the qt. To answer your question, I have no experience with these, but I wouldn't use them myself.
Daan
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DVLA have very rarely issued Q plates in recent years. In fact I already thought that they had stopped issuing them.
These days depending on the components in use they either issue a new registration or an age related one. My mate built a caterham esque kit car recently using quite a number of used components (engine, gearbox, rear axle, front suspension etc). It was IVA tested and DVLA issued it with a modern 12 plated registration.
The one I wonder about would be requests for re-bodying a vehicle with an unmodified chassis (eg you bolt a fibreglass shell onto an unmodified range rover chassis and running gear) as at present these do not require an IVA test, and are dealt with via a VIC check. Does this mean that in the future DVLA are just going to allow re-bodies with a check, or are they going to force everything down the IVA route?
Jon
Rarely issueing q plates is mainly the result of people trying to wing it; ie use a standard registration of something close to what you have, or the donor vehicle. The amount of posts of people on here trying to get out of iva and a q plate proves that imo. a new reg is only allowed currently if you use 80% or so new parts. Maybe the q plate sentence is meant for written off and repaired cars, and no more q plates are given to these.
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So this is mainly to stop ringers getting on the road. I did think that the VIC check is a bit too easy: when I did it there was some woman who knew nothing about cars wrote down an engine number and a chassis number, after I told her where these are located. You could get any car through this check, including the most bodged ringer, so it kind of makes sense. It also mentiones getting rid of Q plates, but no mention about the IVA test. Maybe this means that an IVA test doesn't mean a Q-plate, which is what most people stops doing an IVA test in the first place.
Daan
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I cant read this, as I am not registered, You think you could paste the text?
Daan
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most generic, local bolt suppliers can do what you want, for the more awkward ones, I have used these guys:
Also, these guys never disapoint:
http://www.tridentracing.co.uk/racing-supplies/index.asp?page=nas-1100-bolts-tecnical-spec-46
Since it is unf bolts you are looking for, I linked to the NAS bolt page, which is aircraft spec. They are better strength than 12.9 grade capheads but a bit more spendy. they would also do the capheads though, and loads of other goodies.
Its a double edged sword with NAS bolts, as the strength is better, but the thread engagement is less (less threaded length), which could cause them to strip the thread in the hubs earlier. I would have a good measure of the bolt lengths, as I found I could get away with a longer bolt, and so get the bolt to shear on the shank, rather than the thread. But I am on metric hubs, with m10 bolts.
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I always use capheads for these, as you are going to want them FT. Ask me how I came to this conclusion.
Daan
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You cant get it wrong, as it is doweled ( on a 300 at least).
Daan
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it is different from a 300 flywheel, but the bolt pattern looks the same. Maybe a 300 tdi flywheel with a 130 clutch set is a start?
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Volvo C202 build
in Modified Vehicle Builds & Special Projects
Posted
Dan,the amount of toys, tools and workshop area you have in your possesion is ridiculous.
workshop envy for sure. Keep the updates coming!
Daan