Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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If you rebuild the original box you are in.. if you get the original rebuilt it gets a new number. Now I don't know if it matters but when Ashcroft did mine I got them to retain the original number and they also stamped theirs underneath it.
So who would know what number the original gearbox has?
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They're unlikely to fuss over a bit of extra thickness I'd have thought. most bits are going to look factory, I want her to look factory to an outsider, standard plus I like to call it
.IVA... well that's not far off when I looked at the points
I need 8 or more...Chassis - Assuming the new one counts - 5 points
Suspension - got genuine LR springs but OME shocks? its the same design - 2 points?
Axles - One has been replaced with a disco axle - 0 points unless I get 1 for one axle?
Transmission - currently got the original gearbox but likely to be rebuilt/swapped? - 2 points
Steering assembly - Has been replaced with a PAS box - 0 points
Engine - been replaced - 0 points.
I would not worry about all the parts that are like for like replacements - including the chassis. Iva only comes only really into play if you start cutting the chassis. Since you are only adding bits - don't even start to consider getting near iva.
Daan
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You definately need the genuine workshop manual. The haynes manual generally gets referred to as the 'haynes manual of lies', so I never bothered. Ebay has usually loads on offer, both used and new. When it comes to buying parts, Britpart generally gets refered to as 'Britpart'.
No, we are not a bunch of old cynics on this forum, just voices of experience.
Welcome to the forum!
Daan
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my wife allowed me to go to ladoga, which surprised me a bit, but on my return she said 'lets go and buy that kitchen we talked about for ages'. 6K later (yes love we will have the most expensive one...
Daan)
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how about greased shackle bolts? It does look like very little travel. Also, on droop, there is a good chance the shocks are bottoming out. maybe try cycling it out without the shocks fitted.
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Its odd, the 2 last trucks referred to are actually nicely done, decent builds, then completely wasted by putting horrible looking bits on it. They would probably fetch more if you bring them back to stock and sell the bolt on bits seperate.
Daan
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Hi Tim,
I cannot help directly, but these people do this for a living:
From their website, they do have a a series 1 107 for this kind of thing.
Alternatively, would you like me to move this thread to the international forum, as it is likely to attract more attention?
Daan
edit:just moved it with a copy in series.
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the Croatia trophy has now finished, the overall scores are here:
http://croatia-trophy.org/offroad/ranking-2014/
It appears from the scores that to be reliable is more important than to be fast!
Daan
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Interesting project! keep the updates coming.
Daan
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The 3 bolt is refered to as 'heavy duty' in the parts manual, but from what I have heard from people who tried this, doesn't really appear to be much stronger than a 4 bolt. the disco 2 box does not fit without a lot of re-engineering and also is not very strong at all (mainshaft is thicker but the worm is made of cheese). What have you done to it for it to break?
Daan
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They can be a bit stiff when assembled; usualy the result of the cup being pressed in the joke too far and the press fit stops it sliding back against the circlip once assembled. All it needs is a tap from a hammer in the right place to push the cup hard up against the circlip.
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official croatia videos:
Daan
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Croatia trophy site:
http://croatia-trophy.org/offroad/
This dutch site gives loads of pictures as well:
For the ones that can read dutch, well worth a read. For the ones that cant, Peter Arends and Paul van der linde are going well with their defender 110, currently in Pos 8. They finished in pos 5 overall last year. For this year they fitted a set of volvo portals, which will be usefull in this wheather. They are the best placed dutch team at the moment, and It is certainly a team to watch, because their car is very much on a budget. That should give a lot of people hope that it is possible for everyone.
Daan
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The Croatia Trophy is now well underway; The uk teams have 2 retirements before they even started; Jim didn't get his car finished in time and Nick Anderson was to busy working.
The rest was greeted by bucket loads of rain. Looks to become a great event!
Plasticbadger of the moose team keeps us updated with their team blogs:
Keep them coming guys!
Daan
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according to DVLA it's blue.
Meaning?
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He hasn't stated anything wrong in the add though. The fact that is was written of, would not bother me, given the chassis is bought new. Looks all pretty decent to me to be fair.
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You can change the gear in the transfer box to suit, but not sure what is what. the wobbly thing you should be able to solv with a new cable. If you want to go racy, I'd fit a terratrip.
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About avarage... I would leave it, some great battle scars there, as they say, every dent tells a story!
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it will grow a few thou, but not neccesarily a problem. I would get one of your proposed parts made and measure before and after. Then re adjust the macining dimension afterwards if needed. I had my winch shaft case hardened, it was a bit of shaft of a standard size with a few keyways machined into it. I fitted fine to the bearings, if not a bit tighter. As mentioned before, EN36 is the spec to go for. Heat treating EN24 is a bit wasted effort.
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could it be a split intake hose? lower turbo pressure would result in lower fuel delivery. Common problem, but can be hard to spot.
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Quote: 'the new license plate proposals were the work of a dutch liberal democrat MEP'.
That will never catch on over here, I reckon. The dutch system was fundamentally flawed as it was invented so that only 1 set of plates could ever get made, so you could not get 2 cars with the same number plates driving on the road. Unfortunately, the people that did this now went on to physically nick the plates from the car, rather than writing down the number and have some made. Leaving the legit owner with a much bigger problem than before. Next thing in line with EU regulations is to also introduce a registration and roadtax for every trailer on the road, like they did in Holland. another complete disaster.
I trust the UK government not to take on this bit of legislation, which, judging from the article is indeed the case.
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I have a prop tool, but it is useless on my car, because it is too busy with crossmembers in the way. I am using 2 off 14 mm spanners for the diff ends (14 mm is a much tighter fit), but have changed over the nuts on the transfer box to K-nuts. This allows you to use an 11 mm ring spanner and gives you a whole lot more purchase, probably halving the amount of time to do it.
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I have considered this too, if you were to run a 3 link or 4 link, it would be possible to get your car stable, but still have very good articulation. What it does on a discovery with radius arms all round is a bit lost on me though. Also, they look very heavy to me, can anyone enlighten us? Exactly the same type of setup has been run on WRC cars for a while, then it got banned. It would make an interesting project, link them together back and front and add a pressure accumulator to both lines, then spend decent time setting it up.
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I need 8 or more...
Hydraulic Winch Pump
in International Forum
Posted
But your not really saving any weight according to this:
'The VVR has the ability to replace conventional reservoirs, which are considerably larger and weights hundreds of pounds. A 7- liter VVR measures 12 x 24 inch and weighs 36 pounds including the oil, the 14-liter version measures 12 x 46 inch and weighs 66 pounds while the 27-liter version measures 22 x 28 inch and weighs 120 pounds.'
Could you turn it into a closed system, using an accumulator? Certainly solves the 'water ingress from pressure washer' problem.
I am surprised your not running a cooler, that would be a min requirement I would have thought.
PTO still rules in my opinion, but thats just an opinion....
Daan