Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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ep90.. bits of gearboxes and general machine swarfe ....
That will happen at a later date!
The epoxy paint comment is a valid one, and it may wel go that route. Presumably the 70 odd pound is well spent if it lasts, rather than the previous attempt. The matting solution, not to sure at the moment. If you were to spill a large amount of oil for example, I doubt it will seal completely, unless it is one large mat that spans the entire garage. Plus the jack problem as mentioned. I found that with the previous floor, that a light colour is the future, for finding small fiddly bits once you dropped them on the floor. Alsolying under the car, you get a lot more light. I hadn't considered sealing the floor, but kind of expected that a reasonably thick layer of paint will take car of that. I am certainly going to get qoutes in from a few pro's at this kind of thing, and have the 2 pack epoxy paint up my sleeve as a budget solution.
Daan
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We are moving early next year, so the problem of what to do with the garage floor raises its ugly head again.My current garage, about 7 years ago,i got some cheap floor paint, cleared the garage and painted it a few times with a roller on a stick. I left the truck outside for 3 days, than put everything back in. As is to be expected somehow, there are 4 nice simex shaped contact patches in the corners and several other places were the concrete shines through. Something a bit durable would be good, like this maybe:http://industrialflooringandroofing.co.uk/factoryflooring.html Has anyone experience with this kind of thing, price etc., all comments appreciated. Daan
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I believe you can fit the spacers from the disco calipers to the bigger 110 calipers.
Daan
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This does not bode well as Britain always follows The Netherlands (Gatso, variable speed limits, etc.) only we do it far worse. A10 ring road for Amsterdam has maybe 2 Gatso cameras when I lived there, M25 try 120 Gatso positions in a 5 mile section alone!!!
Thats a bold statement you make there. I bet you passed more speed checks than you know, just that you didn't see them. They can be hidden in holland, and they are.
Daan
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Link for those that can read Dutch better than me.
http://www.xrover.be/Xforum/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=65830&start=0
this is about the removal of road tax free for classic cars in holland. Most landrover enthousiast have a 25 year old landrover, which is tax free. Thats is the only way to do it, or pay £2200 euro, depending on weight of car. This is for LPG or Diesel. petrol is about half the price in road tax.
There were truckloads of cars coming into holland that were 25 years old, every year it moves, so now a 1988 defender would be taxfree. People would get a taxfree car and use it for their daily commute. This wasn't what the 25 year old rules were meant for. On the other hand, with taxes that high, tax evation (which is what this is basically) becomes a national sport.
They have now changed the age to 40 years, so loads of people now have to pay full whack which is for many people too much.
It is now back as it was, with 1973 cars being tax free.
There used to be the commercial option, with 2 seats only, but they have reduced to vat registered people only, so that avenue is closed of as well.
Daan
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Yes, holland is a bad place to be if you like offroaders. Or cars full stop. Or houses. Or jobs. In the last case, if you are out of a job, or unable to work, or retired, holland is a very good place. And thats why the taxes are very high, because that has to come from something. You get taxed on anything you do basically. including using drugs.
just some idle thoughts....
Daan
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Matt lee tried it with a comp safari buggy, having a motor in the front wheels, only to be selected if the going got tough. He didn't preceed with it, I believe due to it running too hot.
Daan
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The only answer is to measure the intercooler temperature in and out and the pressure in and out, before and after the change, then compare. There are 3 things to consider, being pressure drop, temperature drop and volume. You can easily improve 1 of these, and maybe 2, but very difficult to improve all 3. I had a play with the standard 300 tdi intercooler, measured temperature in and out, and pressure difference in and out. my view of the standard intercooler core is that it is very, very good, only let down by the cast tanks, giving a restriction in the in and -outlet pipes. The total flow area through the pipes in the core is very large, much larger than the 2" pipes. So I just modified the pipes to thinner wall ones, to remove the bottlenecks. It gives better pickup and marginally better pressure drop.
Also very important is the fan and the cowling to it, and channel all the air going through the grille to go through the intercooler.
I would start with buying some k-thermocouples with read out displays, I bough mine on ebay for about £10 each. You can than verify every mod you do and see the difference (Or not...). I also used a cheap digital readout to measure ambient. You will be surprised how much difference a few degrees difference in temperature makes. I still run the temp readouts, and get regularly a temp drop of 60 degrees or more. As Idris says, the last few degrees are very hard to achieve.
Here is the write up, if you hadn't already seen it:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=78688
Daan
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Daan - thank you for the link and sharing your experience, I hadn't seen it. In fact I'd just built an online order with the ERR2532G seal in it.
How is the rubber all makes one doing ?
OK-ish. in that it is not 100% dry underneath the bellhouse, but there is no oil coming from the wading plug hole. I always aim for a 100% leakfree landrover, but never managed.
Daan
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OEM is not necessarily the same as the original thing in LR packaging.
I would rephrase that in never the same as original.
Daan
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Crankseal and timingbelt as mentioned before I reckon. For the crankseal, have a read at this:
http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=75691&hl=%2Bodd+%2Bcrank+%2Bseal#entry647336
Daan
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10 k does seem reasonable to produce 4 off portal boxes with 4 off special cut gears each, the shafts, boxes etc, while still trying to make money. I wouldn't want to be in the bussines of making them for that money myself to make a living to be honest.
On the side of the buyer though, having spend 10k, I would be rather hacked off seeing these problems, it looks he busted the front and the rear, just with a set of 35s?
Daan
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I think the engine needs the ignition sorting out. Keep us updated on the progress.
Daan
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You mean a tweel?
Its been around for years, but I never seen them catch on. Tried by military and others:
I'd say, we stick with our normal tyres for reasons mentioned above, but use them as an insert, with split rims so you have double beadlock at the same time (like the hummer picture). air them down and you drive on the insert.
Daan
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Yes, I understand that point, and aware of how involved it gets.
Hope you have a good event this year, if you decide to do it.
One point though: I would fit some door tops!
Daan
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One thing you have to factor in is that you can not do this event with out support
Paul, is this by regulation or because of time constrains? I think quite a few teams are just a car, driver and co driver (never been to croatia myself, but I know a few dutch teams that have). Appreciate you would double up driving and spannering the car, but it starts to get expensive having to pay peoples expenses to be there (If you can get people that can and want to take time off to do it).
Daan
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Get well soon, and take care.
Daan
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He probably got all the ali channels from his local B&Q. Good skills though.
Daan
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Well I saw it in Russia in 2009 if that's any help.
Mike
Thats the blue one, which I still have. The new red one though, god only knows...
No when it comes to being anal about paperwork, not at all, I am captain chaos with regards to paperwork. But I like to keep my car in good shape.
Daan
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Can you keep the release bearing in the disengage position, then release the clutch pedal. the system will compensate with more fluid, then press pedal again, as hard as you can. Maybe have a distance piece between release bearing and fork? Basically suggesting to use the clutch mechanism to press the clutch of the splines.
Daan
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Blimey,
I have a folder for insurance (if I bother to print the document), Reg papers and tax forms.
Thats it
Marc.
I would love to know where my V5 is.....
Daan
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I saw a neat way of achieving more steering lock. look at this clip:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JMLvSmTyaBE
The new holland t6080 has a steering front axle, which also pivots around a central point, behind the axle. This would be perfect in combination with a one link.
It cam to my attention because my nephew has a large toy model of the new holland which has this working exactly like the real thing. I could'nt stop playing with it!
Daan
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Well it's likely to be 93.9" anyways
-anorak mode on-
its 92.9".
-anorak mode off-
Prop UJ Movement - why in this direction?
in International Forum
Posted
The difference is about 1/4", so you would notice that. I agree with steve b, if you tap them home against the circlip, it should be even.
Daan