Daan
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Posts posted by Daan
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Happy new year, hope you have more time to spanner your pride and joy.
daan
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Hi, have a look at www.landrover-winches.com
He listed a load, not yours, but there could be one fitting. alternatively, did you try superwinch?
Daan
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I know of people that have used traction controll in combination with atb diffs, and it does work. The fidlle idea, I have considered, but the whole idea would give me to many controls I think, too much multitasking while being in a dynamic situation.
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No, not quite, if you want to band them, you would have to put a 1" band in, so the tyre moves 1/2" outboard, 12.7 mm basically, making 20.6-12.7=8mm offset, as per a modular, with a total width of 7.5".
The endresult of banding a 5.5" landrover wheel by 2" or a 6.5" landrover wheel by 1" is the same: 7.5" with an 8 mm offset, the same offset as a modular.
Hope that makes sense.
As a personal opinion: I am not a fan of landrover alloy wheels, or mach 5s or wolfs I must admit. I reckon a banded (original)landrover wheel looks perfect on your truck, butch like the old 1 ton landrovers, the wholly grail of landrover design(I am a very conservative landrover person, hang on my anorak...). You're welcome to test fit mine if you're passing by.
Daan
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one general comment about these: the later pushbutton doors dont mix with heavy offroading, you just knock of the buttons at the first tree you meet.
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You think you can weigh them? Thinking of new fibre glass bottoms.
Daan
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only when they are structural, I believe.
Daan
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I have been very impressed with my truetrac in the front; the challenge boys may put their noses up to them, but they always give you an advantage when the terrain is not straight. A full locker may give more traction on a straight line (debatable), but when you go round a corner, their front diff usualy needs unlocking to allow it going round corners; the truetrac than still works. The best of both worlds would be a lockable truetrac, for the times you do go in a straight line. But that is in the vapour cabinet at the moment....
Daan
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I dont think running without inner wings is a big problem; with myoffroading the endresult is usually mud everywhere, inner wings or not. I would be a bit wary about removing the fan cowling though, as many people do. The problem I can see here is stones damaging the radiator core.
I have run without innerwings for a good 8 years now, removed them due to the wheels catching too much, despite them sitting higher in the bodywork than normal. I also realized they weigh a ton.
Daan
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A 1 ton wheel has a offset of 20.6 mm; so has wolf wheel. you would move the wheel inboard 12.6 mm compared to a modular. You would have to move it 12.6 mm outboard to achieve the 8mm modular offset (20.6-12.6=8mm).
Daan
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mine were done at www.velgenverbreden.nl in holland. Have a look at my buildthread in my signature, page 1 for the full write up. I can recommend his work.
In the uk, a quick google produced www.bandedsteelwheels.co.uk I have no experience with this company though.
Legality wise, this is well documented on the net, but it boils down to it being legal, unless the wheel fails due to the banding.
Daan
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Flying the flag again for banded landrover wheels; a 2" band will give you exactly the same offset as a modular (ET=+8mm).
If you start with TDCI wheels, they will be tubeless also, if that is a consideration.
Daan
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Yes you can. If you lift the rear wheelboxes by enough to clear the wheels and remove the front inner wings, you should be able to do this. The wheel arch extensions might need a bit of cuting as well. The endresult will be a much better handling and stable car.
Welcome to the fold btw.
Daan
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I dont think re map guys will be too keen to give any pointers. As far as I can see it, if you know what you are doing, it must be straight forward. You are going to need to amplify the signal, as the injecters need pretty high currents. Its just that I don't really know what I am doing when it comes to electronics.
Apart from that, the beauty of the MS is that you can adopt to what ever you want, where as the original ECU is pretty much fixed. The problems with a diesel are not as bad as with petrol, you dont have the lean burn problem if you run it to lean,which would make it run hot or the engine knock problem which will make it detonate, both can ruin your engine.
With a diesel, if you dont get the timing right or the mixture right, apart from a lot of black smoke and badly running, not much else woud happen. Just think about what you could do in combination with a vnt turbo, if you had freedom to control it?
Daan
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Congratulations with the succes of the venture. How are you getting on with the diesel megasquirt system I keep mentioning?
Daan
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Thanks for the reply John,
The clips seem to be working ok.
Although the wild guess of CofG can introduce significant errors in the actual numbers, the actual percentage differance between the front and rear should remain fairly constant for any given change in CofG hieght.
Another thought i've been having is how much effect the front to rear weight distribution would have on the position of the CofG
Dan, how did you determine the cog position, height and forward/rear?
Daan
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What i'm trying ineloquently to say, is that i think that the actual quality of the fabrication of the one link and the materials used in it's construction will have a far greater effect on the longevity of the system than bush selection.
I have had a few pm's asking about suitable joints and in most of the threads joint selection seems to be at the forefront of peoples inquiries/criticisms of the system, i don't think i've ever been asked or really seen any critique on material selection for the link itself.
I really quite like the bush you used for your 1 link, simple to mount robustly and probably quite supple, any pics of yours flexed up?
Why do you think you need a joint that can allow unlimited roll? have a look back through the pics in my wrangler thread and see how much flex the disco2 radius arm bush will allow, from memory i would have needed 20" travel shocks to max the bush out!!!
Also the way zuksoffroad bolt there joint to the 1 link looks like a disaster waiting to happen.
Dan, one question does spring to mind: I have seen you used the rubber bush and a balistic, solid joint to do the same thing. What would you prefer from these experiences? I can imagine the rubber bush giving you a bit of complience for big hits and vibrations, vs. the joint giving you a completely solid solution. Also, if you get a big hit on 1 wheel, the joint is going to be pushed sideways and back, which in case of the rubber bush might disintegrate it. How long would you say the rubber bush lasts in this application?
Daan
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Back to basics: The main reason that the landrover handbrake is usually ineffective is that the oil seal next to it is leaking. So you have oily brakeshoes. Maybe solve that first? The pin thing is a non starter in my opinion, because you cant release it when under load. ok, you can try to release it by riding the clutch, but its a pain in my view. the x eng brake setup is pretty good in my opinion, so I would try to replicate that if you cant afford it.
Daan
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Reading all this, I am afraid I am having to question the point of going electric; isn't it always something electric that lets you down? Ok, some people on here have had problemes with the lift pump, which so far I have never had. I do like the option of being able to drive the car without electrics, which isn't possible anymore if you have an electric pump. I cant see the electric pump being more reliable. Even if it is, I would want to carry a spare, which is what I do anyway, so whether you carry an electric spare or a mechanical makes no ods tbh.
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when I bought my current car, I had my previous car for another 2 weeks, to get it mot'd and sell it on Ebay. I had transfered the insurance to my new car, but was allowed to have the old one insured for an additional £3 a day. Alternatively, Aviva online could insure it for £10 a day. These were for a standard hatchback and full no claim driver. there is no reason why you cannot sorn the car and tax it again when you need, sorn it a bit later again.
Daan
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Edwin's work is top notch, I would happily recomend him. The legal side is well documented. It is not illegal, and you are ok, unless the banded wheels are the cause of a problem. It is not a cause for concern to me, having seen the quality of his work.
Daan
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I paid 50 euros per wheel, plus 70 euros per wheel for blasting and powder coating at www.velgenverbreden.nl.
There are uk options though.
See the link in my signature for pics.
Daan
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For wheels, if you like the series look, banding is the way to go. I did it with a set of td5 wheels, with a bead welded onto it, to make it a tubeless wheel. I since then found out that TDCI rims do actually have a hump. So if you band a set of them, you have a tubeless landrover wheel of the width you require.
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Well, the prop itself has been on the vehicle since new, and the UJ itself for about 3 or 4 years? Probably 4. Might just be wear and tear, but it seems odd to be only in one direction. I'll see if I can get more 'evidence' together to prove/disprove the movement and any rotational action too.
I would fit some new u/js, and see what you've got.
Daan
300 tdi waterpump noisy
in International Forum
Posted
Chaps, coming back from ireland, I had a noisy squice developing under the bonnet, which I thought was an alternator bearing. I checked today, and it turns out that the waterpump makes this noise, it squices when you turn it by hand. I fitted a new pump in 2009, bought from bearmach. the first one they send me was in an unbranded box (not blue!), and this squicked straight away. They replaced it for a quinton hazel one, which now squickes 4.5 years down the road. I have done about 2.5k miles with it, and it has long periods of not being used, including an engine rebuild which took 1 year .
I wasn't expecting this to go wrong, is it because of it sitting idle, or is it the OEM vs Genuine divide?
Basically, shall I buy QH or genuine?
Daan