davyd8899

yup your right its a 95 with the vin ending in MAxxxxxxx, so does this mean i can go and buy a 1 button fob and after opening and closing doors, playing with the ignition, opening the bonnet, dancing on 1 foot, walking on my hands and getting my daughter (who loves the disco as it towes her pony everywhere) to dance a jig on the toof bars, that i can get the 1 button fob to work???

aparently not, my drive is amazingly oil free!!! was working on the stuffed pump theory, will swap it out and let you know the resaults.........

doh sorry, a blond moment, rack, box, ive just got home from a 17hr shift at work............ didnt want to rule anything out just yet, new belt recently (cam and poly) plus new tensioners so wouldnt of thought that would be the problem

My newly aquired 300 has no remote for the central locking, no problem i thought, i can just lock it on the key, however some bright spark changed the door locks and guess what? yup they lost the key for them, hense no way to lock it!! rather than going though changing all the door locks again, i thought i would just get a new remote, but am not completly sure how to program them to the vehicle, is there a code somewhere, or can an LR dealer find the correct 1 though the reg number?? any thoughts and ideas greatly appritiated

The steering on my 300 is noisy and intermittently heavy when making menovures, and whines and grones pretty much the whole time, have checked the fluid, and its at the max level, also not leaking any fluid. so am guessing the pump has had its day, if it was the rack that had failed,would it tiddle oil everywhere? so the question i am asking is pump or rack, or anything else it could be??

also crack 1 of the injectors and turn ignition on to see if fuel is coming through you should hear a noise coming from the pump, so am leaning more and more to the no power to the pump theory

if you have a multi meter make sure the pump is getting power. it does sound to me like there is no power to the pump as you didnt change the filters so when you switch on and turn over it would try to fire as the pump would push fuel to the injectors.

as said above the possibilities are endless, and alot of it is based purely on personal prefference as to what modifications are made, i second the BF Goodrich tyre, the A/T ones are a great all round tyre, size isnt a massive issue given what you need your landy for, something in the back of my head is saying some men are pre occupied with size............. if you did opt for a larger tyre, as said, the gearing will start to detiriorate for towing, you could change the diffs to counteract this..... thats 1 case of the limitless expense and possibilities.

if you stick to a refill after 300 miles you wont be running the risk of dragging rubbish up through the filters, fuel lines etc etc. dont let the guage drop below a quarter in my 300tdi

to bleed a TD5:- turn on ignition for 2 mins, switch off for 30 seconds, turn on for 1 minute, crank over until she fires. did you change the filters?? try filling the filters with fresh fuel so the pump doesnt have to fill the filters. HTH

Land rover does master chef!!!

Could also be the gearbox oil has not been changed reguarly, it's turned to sludge and it's making the gearbox slow, when test driving check to make sure it changes ratios as it should under normal driving conditions, and make sure it kicks down under hard acceleration. Ignition the most likely with the engine, could also be running too rich ie:- fuel/air mixture not right this could something as simple as a blocked air filter.

Test it with the multimeter across the battery and see what readings you get, then do another from the back of the alternator to the chassis and compare, if the readings come back different/lower across the battery, you could have earthing issues.

just a thought, what alternator are you running??? B**tpart isnt worth the cardbored box its delivered in, i had 1, lasted 2 months. never again

as above, 14.4-14.6 with no loads, switch everything on, it will drop a volt, but you dont want it going below 12.75. as said this is with the engine spinning at 2000+rpm so as i say in a previous thread i would do the test again with the engine spinning at 1500-2000rpm and see what readings you get. HTH

I would also take readings with the engine spinning a little faster than tickover

A new engine is NOT the way to go!!! As said this is am easy fix, and may I say well done to the forum member who has offered to do the head replacement if I lived closer I would of offered too! Get a head sources, but DON'T buy a new head gasket until you know how many holes it has in it, you will only know this after the head is removed. And I would also replace the head bolts, lr say they van be used Upto 5 times, but better to be safe than sorry! Also don't forget manifold, thermostat housing gaskets etc etc

bloody ragwort, the bane of my life................ so much of it on the side of the roads......

there a very cool running engine, i have no idea either!!! though i run my 300tdi disco with no vicious fan during the winter, and dont have high running temp issues!

ponies muck on paddocks turns the grass sour, thus redeeming it unedible to ponies!! we clear our pony paddocks of muck every day and keep sheep to keep the land nice!! where there is muck theres money........... not if its hose/pony muck coupled to a vey demanding pony mad child........!!!!

as above goes straight from the sender to the guage, be awae there not always that accurate, some threads on here for retro fit temp sender

you can use 9.5 drill bit for pump antd there is a mark on crank pulley and case (12 oclock )when fitted ,and engine turned over twice marks rechecked and tension redone ,fit progressively smaller drill bits in pump slot and with 3 securing bolts slackened turn pump nut 22m clockwise against drill bit then retighten 3 bolts run engine ,keep going using smaller bits ie 9.5 -9-8.5 -8 etc till engine starts to get diesel knock then go back one thicker drill bit till knock has gone ,pump timing just before knock is optimum timing point and doesnt allways coincide with std pin

http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=81490 check my post on that thread

have a look on my post on another thread, thats how i did my timing, half a mo and ill ell you what thread it is.....

replace 6 o clock 3o clock and 9 o clock with locktite, the rest dry. i never replaced the nuts and had no problems, also i left the very top nut off mine, now ran for 2 years without a problem, tho i wouldnt leave 3 off, thats asking for trouble!! ok to replace............. get some threaded bar the same thread, run through the bell housing and screw a little way into the engine, space them well apart, ie;- not next to eash other then you can use nuts to gently pull the gearbox back toward the engine, 1 at 6 o clock 1 at 4 o clock and 1 at 8 o clock should work, do each nut up 1 turn at a time and go though them in sequence to get an even pull. if you have changed the clutch, find or fab up a piece of bar the same width as the input shaft to locate new clutch properly. its a bit of a bugger, but as long as your neighbours dont mind a bit of blastphermy youll be ok!!