davyd8899

have done a few this way now and never had problems, mind you i am VERY carefull. not trying to start an argument just saying its worked for me every time

just re read and saw you already done the sump!! :blush: mind you i did mine and it still leaked out of the back of the sump!!!

without, as said theyy hold mud and water, also cant be inspecet so readily

couple of things i forgot to mention. when removing the rocker gear, remove rods in sequence from front to back of the engine and keep them in order, then when replacing them, put them in the same place you removed them from, this eliminates having to reset tappets though it is advisable to run through them with a feeler guage just to make sure the gaps are all ok. when removing the head the rear 2 bolts wont come out due to the plate above them, get a zip tie, pull them out so there is enough clearance to remove the head from the engine and zip tie them together to prevent them from falling back down. when refitting insert the new head bolts in the holes, making sure there is non of the bolt pretruding through the bottom of the head, and zip tie together again, this will allow you to replace the head back onto the engine easier. there are tappet caps on all the tappets, these very easily fall into every orrifice on the engine so be carefull when replacing!!! also when fastening rocker gear back down, be carefull not to overtighten, i have snapped a bolt off before now!!! any other advise/help needed please feel free to ask! :i-m_so_happy:

also, if required, would be willing to help with head removal/fitting am very reasonable too!! :blush:

yep i use Bill Carr engineering in Shrewsbury, really helpfull guys and wont sting you on the price either.

stupid suggestion, could it be coming fro the back of the sump??

pretty much covered all bases already, personally i would replace the head gasket anyways, pretty easy job to do. couple of things to note though, if its your first head gasket change, make a note of how many holes are in the front left hand side of the gasket as you look at the engine, this will indicate which gasket it needs to be replaced with. also as suggested change the head bolts, 300tdi head bolts can be used upto 4 times, however for the sake of 30 odd quid i would replace them anyways. when you remove the head, take it to a reputable enginerreing company, who can perform a pressure test on it and get it machined to make sure all is well there. finally when torquing down the bolts, note on the 300tdi, some have to go through angles as well, so you will need an angle guage for this. hope this helps, theres loads of info on this forum that you can scan through, if you get stuck along the way just post here and someone will help :i-m_so_happy:

what engine? did it belch out white smoke or "steam"? sounds to me like the head gasket had gone, water leaked into the engine filled the cylinders with water etc.

disco 2 has a TD5 5cylinder engine, thats the most obvious, visually the light cluster on the back are totally different 300tdi engines are a 4 cylinder 2.5 unit. the valves on this engine are adjusted manually. R.A.V.E manuals are as good as any so have a look there, also the tech archive on this site is second to non

hate to be the bearer of bad news but with out looking too hard i found a pair of brand new blue top injectors for £500 but i cannot believe is £808 for an injector harness?? fitting is easy and i just found a GENUINE land rover 1 for £29.50!! £808 sound totally ridiculous to me!!!

Given that i need a td5 box, the early td5 only had high and low range and no diff lock, just tc. Given thats the set up i get can get, will my transfer box bolt onto the back Of this td5 box?

i was also under the impression they all used R380 boxes though wasnt sure if the splines were the same on the input shaft, am guessing thats why,if it is necessery, to swap the boxes over.

just to reiterate the TD5 engine is out of a disco NOT a defender so does this mean i still need a defender looms or do i need disco looms? and are these still plug and play so to speak ok so i need a gearbox out of a TD5 disco?? will this will bolt straight onto the 300 transfer box? and bolt straight onto the gearbox mounts to give me the location of the engine mounts am sure the props are different on the 300tdi to a TD5 thats why i ask also can the 300 running gear cope with the (modest) uprate in power the TD5 engine will give? can i plumb into the existing fuel system or will that need any modifications? finally, can i use the 300 instrument binnicle? i can get the binnicle out of the TD5 if needs must these are my main concerns and if i get the green light on these without too much aggro then i will go for it

have read a few threads requesting a decent land rover specialist so thought i would start a thread with the company i use :- http://www.mcdonaldlandrover.co.uk very helpfull guys EXTREMELY cheap for parts cant recommened this guys enough. i go there for all my land rover issues maybe other forum members could put up there favoured parts dealer etc to help ppl out sorry moderators but wasnt exactly sure in which forum to post this, am sure you can move it to the correct location

I come again looking for guidance i have been offered a TD5 engine out of a disco for next to no money as the car was rear ended and the owner decided to break it rather than scrap/repair it. so what do i need to look out for if and when i do the transplant? or is it not possible??

i used this thread as a rough guide to do my clutch http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=6268 again as you can see, no wires, sensors or anything to do with the diff lock were touched. as i said i did put the diff lock in to line up the input shaft but that was it so again if his light was working before the cluch change and not working after the change then i would say the garage was negligable. but it isgoing to be difficult to prove maybe someone could start a thread listing good land rover specialists in there area?

i got a britpart rad fitted to my disco, after a blown head gasket was pressurising the coolant system and blew my old rad to bits. all fitted up just fine no problem. i tow a horsebox up hill and down dale, been on about 2 months now and no problems to report thus far, time will tell..................................................

i done the cluch on my disco At no point on changing the cluch did i remove gear linkage, remove any wiring for the dash light or remove/touch any sensors so it begs the question was the light working before the mechanic changed the cluch?? if so then there is a reason why he removed the wires to the light. that could be a point to bring up with him. probably a very long shot but you dont have any pictures with the centre diff light on do you? it helps to put the centre diff lock in to help line the input shaft up so it could be something happened when he did this and rather fix it he disconnected the dash light. failing that i cannot see any reason the mechanic would need to touch the light, sensors, wiring or the diff lever/linkage hope this helps

hmmm maybe a decent single malt?? am a sophisticated LRO dont ya just know it!!!

start with the obvious, crack the top of the injectors, get someone to turn it over and see if theres diesel coming thro to them, dont get a mobile mechanic just yet as it maybe something really simple and you will be shelling out money for nothing!!! IF there is no diesel coming thro check all wires that looks like its connected to the fuel system, not totally sure if there is an electronic fuel cut off on a TD4 but would guess there is. also pull the fuses, again there will be a fuse in the box somewhere that cuts the engine, from memory its got a picture of an engine by the corresponding number if that makes sense!!! if nothing went bang last time you drove it then my guess is something simple!! download the R.A.V.E manuel for the TD4 and try a few things!!! plus you will learn along the way so no need for a mechanic in the future!!!

disco 300tdi this started when i (very stupidly) left a plastic bung in the oil drain pipe from the turbo, of courae it forced oil past the seals and straight into the outlet manifold and through the intercooler!! anyways turbo seems to be ok (phew!!) however every now and then there is a noticable drop in power and an oil burning smell. suspecting it was the remains of the oil i wasnt too worried but decided to take the top hose off the inlet manifold and sweet jesus is it clogged up!! so guessing if the manifold is in that state then so is the intercooler!! so my question is, whats the best way to flush/clean the intercooler?? or could it be that its so dirty its best to get a new one?? any ideas greatly recieved

bypass the damper, thats what ive done with mine, the clutch action is slightly sharper but really not noticable. all the threads are the same as well

yes single button fob for a disco of this age

if you tourqed the the head down before running it up it would of sat correctly, if it wasnt sitting on the dowels then you would of noticed an obvious gap between the head and engine block. if no. 4 is filling with water there i would imagine the head has an internal crack somewhere thats not obvious to the naked eye. its worth getting the head checked/ machined for straightness, however it sounds to me like an internal head problem that cannot be seen. a pressure test will pick up on this, though when you have pulled the head off fill the inlet/outlet ports with diesel/cerrosine or some other suitable fluid. this may give a pointer as to where the leak is coming from, again though this isnt fool proof as it may not show up under normal circumstances but would do under pressure. ice damage is a killer, i know how it feels so can really sympathise with you, if this was the cause, also if it overheated, again this is enough to crack the head. did the water bubble up through the header tank with the engine running? also if the cylinders are pressurising the coolant system then this will send the temp guage skywards even though it may not be overheating as such. hope all this helps and good luck i had a nightmare tith my 300tdi until the problem was finally diagnosed. i had a crack down 1 of the ports not visable to the eyes, and it was displaying all the symptoms you have described-a new head and all was well again. hope this helps.