davyd8899

how i did it was remove all bolts that i could get to, then jack the back of the box up to create a gap roughly 1" getween the bell housing and engine. then (and this is the dodgy bit) i wedged an inch bit of metal between bell housing and engine and released the jack on the back of the box, this then tilted the engine more and made it much easier to get to. once the top bolt is removed, screw some threaded bar roughly 7" long into 2 of the bolt holes, this makes it so much easier to relocate the gearbox. when doing the fork, if its possible, weld a piece of metal onto the back of it, this will give it a much longer life. and while the box is off, for the sake of the price, its worth doing the clutch too. HTH

you can use 9.5 drill bit for pump antd there is a mark on crank pulley and case (12 oclock )when fitted ,and engine turned over twice marks rechecked and tension redone ,fit progressively smaller drill bits in pump slot and with 3 securing bolts slackened turn pump nut 22m clockwise against drill bit then retighten 3 bolts run engine ,keep going using smaller bits ie 9.5 -9-8.5 -8 etc till engine starts to get diesel knock then go back one thicker drill bit till knock has gone ,pump timing just before knock is optimum timing point and doesnt allways coincide with std pin

also run with the cap off the expansion/header tank and look for the dreaded air bubbles/water expulation.........

take the thermostat out and put it in hot water and see if its opening proprly. would the temp guage go to 3/4 just idling??? 300tdis are a pretty cold running engine, however, is the fan working correctly, it could be this coupled to a blocked radiator. if all this checks out, then i would be leading towards a failed/failing head gasket

really dont want to upset you but in my experience water pumps are driven mechanicaly, by belt, sorry to state the obvious. when they spin the fins pump the water round. the usual failure on them is the bearings etc breaking down, siezing etc. if they are spinning then they are pumping, i really cant see how a water pump can lose some of its effectiveness. more seriously though are the air bubbles in the expansion tank, the only possible way i can see this happening (assuming its not the head gasket or problems with the head) is the water pump drawing air into the coolant system and somehow pushing it though to the expansion tank or drawing in air from a split hose, loose jubilee clip etc, but again i really cant see this happening. in my years of experience, bubbles in the expansion tank plus overheating, plus a dry radiator plus a non working heater all point to the head gasket/head. the radiator could be dry as the water is being replaced with exhaust gasses. same with the heater matrix. you say your car had coolant leaks so if the gasses are pressurising the coolant system then this is obviously where the coolant is going- through the leaks. do you have a very good trustworthy friend at home who can help you??? a head gasket change isnt too difficult, assuming thats what it is, there is no fiddly timing issues, and there is a very good tech archive thread on here with step by step instructions on how to do this job. the fiddliest bit is the rocker gear/tappets set once its all back together. i only ask this as would hate to see you get ripped off by another garage. am not saying the garage your car is isnt reputable, but you can save yourself a quite sizable amount of money on labour charges. also, given the luck that you have had, is there a forum member near you that could help you out?

You really dont have any luck!!! However after reading your thread on your freelander and your thread here can i offer you some advice?? You need to slow down and read whats being said to you!!! as stated in a previous post, the bung in the bell housing wasnt your problem, however you dismissed this. you were told in more than 1 post about there only being 2 cooler pipes but contiuned to believe there were 4. more than once you were told the likely problem but you dismissed this also. if its lost any fluid, be it coolant, engine oil, gearbox oil dont drive it any further!! there is a chance you can find the leak, repair it, refill it and all will be ok. driving with fluid loss massively decreases this chance. as i say listen to the guys on here, they have owned landrovers since the dawn of the series1 so they really do know what there talking about!! Please dont take this as a pesonal attack on yourself,just trying to save you any further heartache. And remember, you own a 18yr old land rover so you have to expect problems with it. my advice would be to join a reputable breakdown company, for a small outlay, it will save you in the long run. as i say this isnt a personal attack on your good self, so please dont take it as so.

do you have access to various different belts etc?? if so try running (not driving fo obvious reasons!!!) the engine for a couple of seconds with a single belt connected first to the alternator, then the tensioner pulley, water pump etc until you find the noise. however be very carefull you dont run for too long without the water pump (again for obvious reasons!!) 10-15 seconds would be enough to hear if there was a noise or not. this is how i found my annoying little noise

my old disco was doing exactly the same thing, changed belt, water pump, pulleys......... turned out to be the PAS pump just my 2 penneth worth

as i said in my previous post, my head was cracked in such a way exhaust gasses were blowing straight into the heater matrix pipes and blowing all the coolant out and leaving them dry. run it for 5 mins with the top off the expansion tank. if it starts to expel water (even if there are no air bubbles) my guess would be your head is cracked in exactly the same way.

ok this is now sounding familiar, my heater didnt work, engine overheating, no bubbles in expansion tank................. turned out to be a cracked head, it was putting exhaust gasses into the cooling system and, more to the point, straight into the heater matrix pipe connected to the top of the head, thus pushing coolant through and replaced with gasses.

loads of them being broken up for scrap http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/iveco-eurocargo-75e150-170-breaking-all-parts-available-cabs-engines-axles-/281057478399?pt=UK_Commercial_Trucks&hash=item417054c6ff try here

could you customise something out of an iveco 7.5t truck, they have a stand alone (not built into the roof lining) console that holds radio, tachograph and CB. with a bit of modification am sure they could be made to fit into a disco.

try taking the thermostat out and take it for a little drive, that will eliminate thermostat problems

PM sent also good luck with the starting,

on the ecu end with ignition off check the red plug for oil. if this comes clear check and make sure the tubo wastegates arnt stuck open, if it oveboosts the TD5 cuts fuel to protect the engine, hense this could cause loss of power.

I have a 300tdi sitting on the drive, minus a head which is cracked so would be very interested, just had all the welding done, boot floor, inner sills etc so dont really want to break it as its in vgc for the year!! i still have the head complete with injectors, thermostat housing etc etc, so if you want to strip any parts then please feel free!! do you still have the ticket from the pressure test/skim?? and finally how much to a very dedicated but very scint LL enthusiast?!! Could meet you at william bros in wrexham as its just up the road from me

blocked heater matrix??

still sounds like the harness to me, mine had exactly the same thing, fine at low revs pootling about, soon as i revved it, put the engine under any kind of pressure, went completely gutless

if you break it, i would be very interested in the head. . . . . . . . . . . . .

first thing to check is the injection harness, they get oil in them and start missing/losing power.

far as i can remember the break lights are as you say fused with the reverse lights, these wouldnt affect the dash warning lights. start with the obvious (bulbs fuses break light switch) and take it from there. also the gearbox sensor are prone to need re seating this will trigger the three dash lights.

the pipes are geting warm but wouldnt describe them as hot. temperature guage reads smack in the middle. sticking thermostat maybe??

have just blew through the heater with a hose, flushed the system and............................................ Stone cold air!!! so guessing the matrix is shot???

flaps are moving, there is a definate and noticable change of air flow when turning the heater control from hot to cold. would this happen even if it was blocked?? if i took the pipes off the head and the metal pipe and blew through with a hose would this clear any blockage?? all thoughts greatfully recieved

hi all i come seeking wisdom once again!!! the blowers in my 300tdi disco is blowing stone old when fully warmed up. it has always done this so after a new head, gasket, bolts etc (it needed his anyways!) am assuming the heater matrix is shot. there are no air locks etc. so how easy is it to replace the matrix?? look forwards to all your responces.